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mike weyman
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does anyone have the torque specs for the rear housing bolts ?the ones that hold the cover on.??it's a steel casing 1975
GTR1999
Well-known member
50 ft/lbs for the carrier cover bolts
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mike weyman
Guest
thank you.mike
GTR1999
Well-known member
You're welcome. So how did it work out for you,get everything straight?
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mike weyman
Guest
i dropped the rear end to change the seals, it was hard to get out,especially breaking the rust on the nuts near the wheels on the half shafts.I thought for sure i'de snap them off.
do you have the torque specs for the half shafts? i think they must be 2 diffrent torque settings as the ones on the pumpkin came out easy.
also , is there a way to grease the rear wheel bearings, they're good , but i'd like to grease them up while i'm there.
do you have the torque specs for the half shafts? i think they must be 2 diffrent torque settings as the ones on the pumpkin came out easy.
also , is there a way to grease the rear wheel bearings, they're good , but i'd like to grease them up while i'm there.
GTR1999
Well-known member
The 1/2 shafts are locked at the rear spindle flange with French Locks. They are torqued to 70 ft/lbs and the tabs rolled over. I use the SS locks that bairs sells. I bent the lock link back so the bolt head doesn't hit and twist them. Once you get to 50-60 ft/lbs they can be a bear to get,but aslong as th ehead doesn't twist the link you can do it.
The inner bolts are about 20 ft'lbs depending on if they are straps or the u bolts. I'd have to look them up.Check in a GM manual or AIM.
The only real way to grease the rear bearings is to remove them. I don't like that bearing tool that is sold.If you go through the trouble of removing them then replace them they only cost $25-$30 per set. If they are not binding,rough,or have a lot of play-more then .004" leave them alone. Otherwise you'll be in the middle of another job.
The inner bolts are about 20 ft'lbs depending on if they are straps or the u bolts. I'd have to look them up.Check in a GM manual or AIM.
The only real way to grease the rear bearings is to remove them. I don't like that bearing tool that is sold.If you go through the trouble of removing them then replace them they only cost $25-$30 per set. If they are not binding,rough,or have a lot of play-more then .004" leave them alone. Otherwise you'll be in the middle of another job.
Tsker79
Active member
Torque Specs?
Coupeman, where are you finding all the torque specifications? I am redoing my brakes and have not found all of the specs for the various bolts. My Assembly Manual has some of them, but not all have a spec listed. unless, of course, I am looking on the wrong page. Any advice would be appreciated. ( I have disassembled the front to have the rotors turned and to replace the hoses with stainless ).
Coupeman, where are you finding all the torque specifications? I am redoing my brakes and have not found all of the specs for the various bolts. My Assembly Manual has some of them, but not all have a spec listed. unless, of course, I am looking on the wrong page. Any advice would be appreciated. ( I have disassembled the front to have the rotors turned and to replace the hoses with stainless ).
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mike weyman
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now they're binding!!!!aaarrrrggggh!!!!!!
i tried to re-install the half shafts last night. it seems alright till i tighten the bolts,as they snug up it seems it's binding. if i let the nuts loose, it will spin relatively freely.when i tighten it up it seems to bind at one place on it's rotation.when disassembled both the wheel bearings and the pumpkin turn freely.i was pretty tired last night while working so maybe i was missing something,i'll try a 180 degree swap to see the diffrence,or maybe try the other shaft.
i'm thinking that it may be related to the wheels hanging in the air making it more of an angle than the universals can do??
tried lifting the spring with the jack with little or no benefit.the plates are really flat(not bent).where do i go from here????
i tried to re-install the half shafts last night. it seems alright till i tighten the bolts,as they snug up it seems it's binding. if i let the nuts loose, it will spin relatively freely.when i tighten it up it seems to bind at one place on it's rotation.when disassembled both the wheel bearings and the pumpkin turn freely.i was pretty tired last night while working so maybe i was missing something,i'll try a 180 degree swap to see the diffrence,or maybe try the other shaft.
i'm thinking that it may be related to the wheels hanging in the air making it more of an angle than the universals can do??
tried lifting the spring with the jack with little or no benefit.the plates are really flat(not bent).where do i go from here????
GTR1999
Well-known member
Torque spec's are form the AIM & and Spec sheet I have from VB&P.
The VB&P sheet lists the U-joint outer flange at 75 ft/lb, the inner wiht u-bolts at 15 ft/lbs, inner with caps at 30 ft/lbs.
Mike, I install the 1/2 shafts before the rear spring. I use the cars jack under the control arm to get it to ride height then install the 1/2 shafts. they shouldn't bind in this position. If so look carefully to be sure a french lock isn't hitting when you rotate it.
The VB&P sheet lists the U-joint outer flange at 75 ft/lb, the inner wiht u-bolts at 15 ft/lbs, inner with caps at 30 ft/lbs.
Mike, I install the 1/2 shafts before the rear spring. I use the cars jack under the control arm to get it to ride height then install the 1/2 shafts. they shouldn't bind in this position. If so look carefully to be sure a french lock isn't hitting when you rotate it.
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mike weyman
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i didn't attempt to drop the spring as it had been welded in the past(rear housing),so i dropped it back and took the pumpkin out like that.
the problem with the shafts was me.i broke a rib in the morning worked all day and started working on the car at 11 p.m.I never paid good attention to make sure the cups were lining upright,and they weren't.i went at it today and rotated the drive shaft as i snugged up the bolts to let it work itself into place, it worked, no binding.i'll install the passenger side and drive shaft today.
thanks for the specs guy i really appreciate it.mike
the problem with the shafts was me.i broke a rib in the morning worked all day and started working on the car at 11 p.m.I never paid good attention to make sure the cups were lining upright,and they weren't.i went at it today and rotated the drive shaft as i snugged up the bolts to let it work itself into place, it worked, no binding.i'll install the passenger side and drive shaft today.
thanks for the specs guy i really appreciate it.mike
GTR1999
Well-known member
Broke a rib,damm man take break from the car.
Glad you got things back though. If the rear cover was welded I would replace it with a HD Muskegon cover. The original covers break from a big hit like a pot hole or improper spring installation. Be careful back there.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=807950
Here's something that might help you too.
Glad you got things back though. If the rear cover was welded I would replace it with a HD Muskegon cover. The original covers break from a big hit like a pot hole or improper spring installation. Be careful back there.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=807950
Here's something that might help you too.
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mike weyman
Guest
had to drop the end of the differential last night after i found the other half of the rubber bushing for it.hooked up the x member, got the tranny linkage hooked up. will have it running in a few days(hopefully)for the first time in almost two years. i'm kind of afraid to try it cause it's been so far apart ,and now it's actually starting to look like something.
i cracked the rib low and on the side, it's not as bad as a chest break(had one),but it still hurts bad.can't stop working on the car cause we only get 2 months of summer up here, and it will be here soon.good part of only 2 months of summer, the car is a 75 and has only 33,000 miles.a little over 1000 miles a year.
i cracked the rib low and on the side, it's not as bad as a chest break(had one),but it still hurts bad.can't stop working on the car cause we only get 2 months of summer up here, and it will be here soon.good part of only 2 months of summer, the car is a 75 and has only 33,000 miles.a little over 1000 miles a year.
GTR1999
Well-known member
Be careful and enjoy your summer. I was there for vacation back in '69 when I was a kid. It was August and it was cold in the am from what I remember!
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mike weyman
Guest
june and july are good, august starts to cool off,daytimes are about 65 or 70 degrees
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