Trailing Arm Job

[Bill75]

I'm well on my way to getting the trailing arms out, just the one last bolt to get out with a Sawzall but I can't get the shock mounts out. I beat on them with an impact hammer and then a sledge hammer and they wouldn't budge so I decided to cut them out with the Sawzall. I went thru 3 blades on one and barely made a cut, holy s*** are these things hard or what!!!!!!!!

I decided to take the bolt out of the other end of the strut and work on them later with a torch I guess, where they're out in the open. Maybe if I heat them up they can be persuaded with a sledge hammer!

 

[problemenko]

I soaked mine in pentrating oil for about two days. Spraying them twice a day. Then by dumb luck or shear genius I found a piece of threaded pipe with an end cap that fit the shock mounts. Banged on it with a hammer and bingo both came out without very little effort.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Either go to the hardware store and get two nuts the size of the threads, lock them together on the shock mount by tightening them against each other and beat them out or buy the $14 tool from the vendors and do the same thing. By the way, the tool is a long nut about the size of the two nuts you bought for a dollar at the hardwar store.

I've read where others have used a puller to remove the mount.

The penetrating oil is a must as well.

Don't pound on the castle nut. The end can mushroom when you do this and they are hard to find. I couldn't find one and a member here sent ne an old one.

Good luck. It will come out with time and patience.

 

[Bill75]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the tips, I guess the name of the game is patience and more penetrating oil! Wonder if they sell the stuff in 55 gal drums! When I get the trailing arm out it'll be easier to get at so I'm sure I can get them off then. Glad you mentioned the castle nut, I did turn it around and was hammering on the backside flush with the mount stud, I'll stop at the store on the way home.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Bill,

Your'e smarter than me. I didn't even think to turn it around. :L The bolts are cheap and reduce the risk.

Bob

 

[JohnZ]

An air hammer gun is much more effective, and won't break the ears off the spindle support like a big hammer can.

 

[dk1977]

Maybe I got lucky but I used a pittman arm / tie rod puller and plenty of PB Blaster...

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Joun,

You have all the best tools.

Bob

 

[Bill75]

John,

That thing looks too new!!!!!!!!!! Bring it over here so we can break it in a little!! When I get these arms off I'll take them to my garage down town and have him use the air hammer on them, definately a better way if they're stuck. That is if I live long enough!! 10 Sawzall blades on that one bolt and still haven't gotten one off. I hate Zora Arkus-Duntov!!!!!!

Im not sure if it's a good thing or a bad thing that I'm out of acetylene! ad

 

[Bill75]

I've always wondered why the rear spring holes don't line up better with the spring bolts, the centerline of the bolt to the centerline of the hole in the spring measures about 1 3/4 out of alignment almost equally on each side of the car. I do know that the previous owner replaced the rearend cover and the spring but things look straight and the spring looks to be in the proper location on the rear end. It actually couldn't be made to go far enough forward to make these two things line up. Is this normal??? It sure doesn't look right to me but I can see any signs of any alterations in the car or any reason why this should be.

Bill

 

[George Black]

Bill75: I laughed when I saw your comment re "name of the game" being patience and penetrating oil. How true! That should be on a C3 wall poster!

I continually remind myself to go slow, think about what I am doing, be patient, use lots of penetrating oil (PB blaster, etc.), and take breaks--it also helps to stop and laugh out loud occassionally--remember this is enjoyable!

Most important: Do it once and do it right.

--G.P. Black

 

[Bill75]

Hi George,

You're right for sure, I have a whole different attitude with this car since I don't have to depend on it to get anywhere. If it starts getting to me I walk away and do something else or go sit on the garage step and have a beer!

It would be nice though to take the upholstery out of this thing and submerge it in a vat of PB Blaster for the winter!

I don't seem to be getting any comments on the spring picture, maybe I'll start a new post later tonight. Happy New Year!

Bill

 

[black_81_vette]

Im wondering if thats not a 80 to 82 style rear cover? I was told they were different from the 79 down models because the 80 up vettes use a different way to mont the rear end assembly

 

[Bill75]

Hello Jim,

Thanks for the reply and the idea. There must be something different here because the differnential can't go forward any more, the spring is mounted exactly where it should be against the stop on the diff. housing and the trailing arms are mounted correctly. Now that you've mentioned that I did notice a slight offset in the strut rods. When I removed them the bushings were not compressed evenly. I'll check it out.

Thanks

 

[black_81_vette]

Hey I did some checking for you, the rear cover on your set up should be cast iron that one looks like the aluminum cover wich in fact is for 80 and up. Let me know what you find.

 

[Bill75]

Hi Jim,
Thanks for taking the time, the cover is cast iron. We can't figure out why things didn't line up right. I'm all done with the job except putting stuff back in the car. The meatball springs, carrier and half shafts are all assembled as a unit on my garage floor. Three bolts and it's back in and then we'll see how things line up when the trailing arms go back in. I had to get new arms, mine were too rusty. Major hold-up though; while changing the rear seal on the tranny, I broke a piece off the flange of the tailshaft. The guy at the Vette shop let me borrow his fancy tool, I should have used a screwdriver! Man am I bummed out!! Actually two small pieces and I can't find where the h*** one of them went, even had my wife under the car helping me look. I was hoping to have it welded but I can't find that piece anywhere!! Wish I had another tailshaft, maybe I'll post something to see if there's one around.

Thanks,

Bill

 

[Bill75]

Ready

Here's a pic of the rearend assy. ready to be installed (less paint on the meatball). Assembled on the outside like this should be a much easier install......3 bolts and it's in. I know this sounds too good to be true but that's the therory anyway!!!!
Also is a shot of the suggested stackup of the shims showing the thin ones to the inside. Before assembling the shims, I found out each of the thick and meduim sizes should be put on an anvil and hit with a flat hammer to remove the metal extrusion from the edges. This might cause a false indication after ther'ye installed that they're tight when in fact they're just touching the high spots.

 

[GTR1999]

Looks like you're getting there Bill. Are you going to shoot the Diff with some paint first?

 

[Bill75]

Hey Gary, How the heck are you? Yes, I'm going to give it a paint job this weekend. I decided to leave the ring and pinion alone for now, my budget is streached out pretty good. The trailing arms were too rusted so they got replaced, one halfshaft flange was bent and was replaced, new bearings, seals, stub axles, etc. etc. You know how it goes. I had the guys up here do the rearend bearings, seals etc. They did a nice job and treated me real good. I have no complaints at all. Going down the road will be the real test but I'm sure it'll be fine. There seemed to be alot of hits on this thread, so maybe someone will pick up something that helps out that I learned. I would have never thought to assemble the whole thing like this and then install it but they clued me in on it.

 

[GTR1999]

Sounds good Bill. You can put it back in as one, I like to start with the diff and crossmember then add the other units. It gives me a chance to check the fit of everything as it goes into the car,it's just the way I do it.

Since everything is new you can always remove them in the future if you change gears. Use never-seize on the T arm bolts through the bushing and watch the French locks. I know your guy says to hit them with an impact wrench, but I torque them to spec. If you use the SS ones and bend the heads down then the bolt head will not twist them as you get up past 60 ft/lbs.
Good luck