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Question: Transmission Cooling line leak at connector

  • Thread starter Thread starter Drastic Plastic
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Drastic Plastic

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I'm a new owner of a 2007 C6 Convertible. I brought the car cross country. All is well except when I received the car there is a leak from the Trans cooling line connection to the Radiator/Cooler. When I got under the car I found a strange looking connector with a clip of sorts instead of the traditional flare and NPT fitting which can be tightened if found loose.

I know nothing about these quick-connect fittings (quick for the factory assembly line) except they probably need a special tool.
So here I am bleeding trans fluid with no way to check the fluid level to see how much has bled out before I received the car and no way to stop the bleeding. The car shifts right (I think) so the level is probably not dangerously low but I'm treating the car as though it is.

I can actually move the line around so it is loose and there is no way to tighten it.

2 questions:

1. How can this connector be tightened?

2. If the dealer is the solution, what is the likelihood it's cover by the powertrain warranty? I heard reports GM reps turn it down at a General Motors forum website.

Any insight would be appreciated.
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I'm a new owner of a 2007 C6 Convertible. I brought the car cross country. All is well except when I received the car there is a leak from the Trans cooling line connection to the Radiator/Cooler. When I got under the car I found a strange looking connector with a clip of sorts instead of the traditional flare and NPT fitting which can be tightened if found loose.

I know nothing about these quick-connect fittings (quick for the factory assembly line) except they probably need a special tool.
So here I am bleeding trans fluid with no way to check the fluid level to see how much has bled out before I received the car and no way to stop the bleeding. The car shifts right (I think) so the level is probably not dangerously low but I'm treating the car as though it is.

I can actually move the line around so it is loose and there is no way to tighten it.

2 questions:

1. How can this connector be tightened?

2. If the dealer is the solution, what is the likelihood it's cover by the powertrain warranty? I heard reports GM reps turn it down at a General Motors forum website.

Any insight would be appreciated.
View attachment 3840

No Big whoop,disconnect it and check for burs on metal tube,replace 0-ring in connector and snap it back together!~!!(Special tools Required!~!!)
You can get a set at a A/!P store for around $10-15.00:thumb:thumb:thumb
 
Trans Connector fix

No Big whoop,disconnect it and check for burs on metal tube,replace 0-ring in connector and snap it back together!~!!(Special tools Required!~!!)
You can get a set at a A/!P store for around $10-15.00:thumb:thumb:thumb
Thank you sir! I assume this "tool" will cinch the line down tight again.
How about adding tranny fluid or checking for that matter, maybe there is a "fill to" plug back on the transmission??

My apologies in advance for rookie questions, I haven't purchased the GM service manual yet.

It's my suspicion that when the Callaway swaybars were in stalled the installer was confronted with the cooling line obstructing the fatter swaybar and therefore they manually bent the line further to allow clearence compromising the fitting's seal or O-ring. The cooling line rests rather tightly against the swaybar so I should probably tweak it more before final install of the line.

Thanks again
 
I'm getting concerned, New connector tube end looks perfect and still leaks (2007 C6)

No Big whoop,disconnect it and check for burs on metal tube,replace 0-ring in connector and snap it back together!~!!(Special tools Required!~!!)
You can get a set at a A/!P store for around $10-15.00:thumb:thumb:thumb

As the title says above I replaced the connector in the radiator which comes with a new O-Ring inside, inspected the trans line end and it looks completely normal without nicks or flaws. I snapped the line in place carefully and completely, fired up the engine and within 30 seconds it began to leak again! (one drop every eight seconds) ARGH! Took it in to the dealer and they tried to get it to seal and it leaked on them too. Now they want to replace the entire line which goes all the back to the transmission. $278. Personally I think the line is fine, if it's not its fricken microscopic and I can't believe they would put such a sensitive connection in such an important location. (remember there's no dip stick to check for low fluid levels!)

These quick-connect trans fittings are a bad design. I call them the quick-to-leak fitting. The fact you can spin the line and move it at all told me it was a bad design. Boy do it miss the good ol flare with NPT fitting! Now that was bullet-proof! An adaptor to a regular flare fitting would be GREAT!

Has anybody experience this problem? I can't be the only one! WHY won't this fitting stop LEAKING!!!!!!:mad
 
Has anybody experience this problem? I can't be the only one! WHY won't this fitting stop LEAKING!!!!!!:mad

Nope haven't had much problem with them,they've been using them a while now on several GM and other vehicles.I've had to replace the o-ring in a couple,but I've never had one I couldn't seal!~!;shrug;shrug;shrug
 
Nope haven't had much problem with them,they've been using them a while now on several GM and other vehicles.I've had to replace the o-ring in a couple,but I've never had one I couldn't seal!~!;shrug;shrug;shrug

Should I repost in Tech and Performance to get more exposure on the issue?

DP
 
Should I repost in Tech and Performance to get more exposure on the issue?

DP
Maybe we can get the Admins or Mods to move it for you!:thumb

Yoda,Tom,Jane Ann, anybody out there????
I'll send a message to Toms01!~!!:thumb
 
Junkie, it was great talking to you. :happyanim:
 
Fixed???

It's been a few weeks. Was your leak ever fixed?

As long as the line is touching the sway bar or if in bending the line to get it away from the sway bar this causes the fitting to not fit straight into the female fitting on the cooler the line with no sideways stress, it will likely leak. Any sideways pressure of the hose tugging on the fitting will not allow the o-ring to seat properly.

After having similar issues on install of a DeWitts radiator, re-bending the line for better alignment and to take the stress off of the fitting solved my issue. Then adding a hose clamp over the wire clip as a safety and mine is fine.
 
The stupid transmission line is on factory back order.

I can't believe nobody has this trans cooling line. I'm about to make an adaptor to standard compression fitting from the old connector fitting I replaced. I'd love to tell you a better story, but that's the status.

On a side note: I bought a new lower radiator support/skid plate. The new one didn't come with the threaded inserts That's idiotic! I bought the inserts but they require a special gun that threads into the insert and hydralically pulls the threads outward mashing the fitting metal against the inner wall. Well, smarty me thought using my low torque cordless impact would do the same thing, (which it should have). Instead, the fitting spun and rounded the hex hole because the fitting was a little too small and didn't fit snug, kinda like use a standard box-end wrench on a metric nut. This is thinwall aluminum so it never had a chance to crush the backing of the fitting against the inner wall. Argh!

I guess these supports are not supplied or built the way they used to be, instead they now come unpainted/unfinished. When they say unfinished they mean unfinished.

It's a shame. The Corvette is the ultimate representation of American freedom in car form. Too bad a socialist bought the company.

:mad Have a great Independence Day. I'll be in the garage if you need me.
 
I can't believe nobody has this trans cooling line. I'm about to make an adaptor to standard compression fitting from the old connector fitting I replaced. I'd love to tell you a better story, but that's the status.

On a side note: I bought a new lower radiator support/skid plate. The new one didn't come with the threaded inserts That's idiotic! I bought the inserts but they require a special gun that threads into the insert and hydralically pulls the threads outward mashing the fitting metal against the inner wall. Well, smarty me thought using my low torque cordless impact would do the same thing, (which it should have). Instead, the fitting spun and rounded the hex hole because the fitting was a little too small and didn't fit snug, kinda like use a standard box-end wrench on a metric nut. This is thinwall aluminum so it never had a chance to crush the backing of the fitting against the inner wall. Argh!

I guess these supports are not supplied or built the way they used to be, instead they now come unpainted/unfinished. When they say unfinished they mean unfinished.

It's a shame. The Corvette is the ultimate representation of American freedom in car form. Too bad a socialist bought the company.

:mad Have a great Independence Day. I'll be in the garage if you need me.

You don't need a special gun to set the inserts!~!!:thumb

All it takes is 2 Flat Washers,Nut,Bolt and 2 open end wrench's to set the inserts,Been doing it for more than 30 years!:thumb:thumb

Have a great Independence Day. I'll be cruising 1 of my vettes if you need me you'll have to call my cell. :D
 
That was kinda what I was thinking, but didn't have the metric nut.

I guess I'll run down to the hardware store and get what I need. A little all-thread, couple nuts and that big bag of pistashio nuts at the checkout counter!

Thanks for the heads-up!

Happy 4th of July!:pat
 
I guess I'll run down to the hardware store and get what I need. A little all-thread, couple nuts and that big bag of pistashio nuts at the checkout counter!

Thanks for the heads-up!

Happy 4th of July!:pat
If your going to use ready rod,better get 3 nuts!~!!
:thumb
You'll need to jam the top 2 together to hold the ready rod from turning!~!!:beer
 
Very true!

:thanks:
Better yet, just go with original bolt like you said.
 

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