The trick is to do one thing at a time. First eliminate the spark problem since you're there already. I will expain what should be done first more at the end. Just deduce the ignition problem for a case study. You should have done the test like I told you. You could have eliminated all that disassembly and running around getting things checked. Now take a deep breath and put the timing light on any wire and repeat what I posted before. I want to know if you have spark all the time. This way, you can "eliminate" the distributor. If you get spark all the time when cranking, you can now proceed to the next two variables to make an engine run. Remember the three things needed to make any engine run. They are: Compression - Spark - Fuel. If you have any one of those components missing, you won't get an engine running.
You cannot clean spark plugs by wiping them off. Forget about it. Now you felt each header near the head to feel which is making heat. Pull the plug on the one you think is not firing. Put that plug into the plug wire boot, ground the threaded part to some part of the engine's metal, and have someone crank the engine over while you look at the spark jump to the side electrode. And be very careful you do not, and I mean DO NOT ground that plug anywhere near the spark plug hole you took it out of. The fuel coming out of the plug hole will light you and your car on FIRE! The fuel spray is termendous if you never witnessed it. Cover the hole with a shop rag to capture most of the spray. Keep the spark well away from the hole!!
Now lets study the spark jump. A proper spark will always jump from the center electrode to the side electrode. This is perfect spark. A fouled plug will spark off to the side of the porcelain or jump to the inside of the steel case... where you see the threads, or show no spark at all. These fouling type leaps will never spark the fuel. If you see any "foul" sparks going on like this, simply replace the plug. Cleaning it is a mute point. Toss the plug. Take a new plug out of a box and install it into the plug boot to see how a new plug should fire.
Look under the distributor cap. Are the 8 contacts covered with white powder? This is condensation trapped inside the cap. When the sparks fly inside the dist. cap, this is what will form on the tips when arcing occurs. Screw scrapping the contacts clean. Replace the cap and rotor together with new ones.
It seems you are saying that the plugs looked "clean." If they were wet, it would be a spark problem. If they are dry, it could mean no fuel is happening inside the cylinder chamber.
Did I mention the many variables to each of those 3 parts needed to make an engine run?
Compression alone will show you a little laundry list that will cause no compression: Bent valve. Burnt valve. Valve stuck open. Flat cam lobe (no valve movement). Stuck rings in piston groove. Broken rings in piston groove. Hole in piston dome. Worn ring end gap (wide). See what I mean? The list goes on. The same list of different variables will almost match the same for the other 2 causes for no start.
That's why it's so important to take your time and think things through. Try not to scatter around chasing all the variables of the 3 causes for no start. Eliminate the most important one first.
Always begin with the very first variable. And that is Compression. Charge the batter real good before taking a compression. Now pull all the plugs. This will make the engine spin real easily and save a lot of battery charging. Pull the coil wire, or remove the dist. cap before attempting a compression test. Write down all the readings on each cylinder. They should be at best, 10% of each other. Do this first thing.
Now that you have all the plugs out, install new ones. Torque them. Listen for a "tink" if you happen to angle the wrench wrong and slip. You just broke the porcelain. This will surly mis-fire a cylinder.
Now that you eliminated 2 of the 3 variables, (compression/spark) you can now concentrate on the last one........Fuel.
Again, you should test and make sure you have spark using the timing light procedure before chasing fuel. Hope this helps.
ave
