U-Joint Questions/Answers

[wrc3]

Two Questions... First I read posts that state the non-Zerk Joints are better/stronger, does anyone know of a supplier? I have looked at the Majors; Ecklers, Doc Rebuild, Etc. and they seem to only supply the one with the Zerks.

Secondly, talking about pressing them in and out. Has anyone done this at home? Will a standard Arbor Press do the job? I am looking to purchase a press anyway and was wondering if anyone who has one in their shop can suggest a good size and make for car work.

B

Here are some presses I was looking at:

http://www.emachinetool.com/tooling/temp_top_right.cfm?FamilyID=AP050&Source=PTC

 

[69MyWay]

Try Autozone for the Brute Force brand (no zerk fitting) made in the USA.

Yes, I do this at home.

A press will really help, but it can be done the old fashion way with blocks of wood, hammers, sockets that fit in the bearing cap, and bloody thumbs (when the hammer misses).


Good luck and have fun!

 

[wrc3]

Wouldn't happen to have a part number would you?

 

[Jack]

Without you dangling off the end of the handle, an arbor press probably won't create enough force to push out an OLD siezed cap ... hydraulic press or good vise will.

It's real easy to damage/bend/tweek the ears of the driveshaft-halfshaft. Can be a hard job if they haven't been changed in many years. I've done many ... in many different ways.

My suggestion: Pull your drive/half-shafts ... Get the u-joints of your choice ... take it all down to a reputable driveshaft shop and let them R&R joints ... if they bend shafts they bought em ... that's what I did last time ... cost me about $6/joint for labor ... no probs. Unless it's an emergency, I 'll have ds shop R&R future joints. Tip: give the shop a few days if they ask ... they may wanna let penetrating oil work.
JACK:gap

 

[Eric]

There's a small local Vette suspension shop that sells them either way, with or without zerks. He's very reputable and located just outside Leesburg. The name of the shop is B.A.K. Automotive and the number is (703) 669-6431 - ask for Mark and tell him Eric sent you.

 

[Doug'sL81]

I did all 6 of mine using a large bench vise, sockets, rubber mallet and a bunch of elbow grease. It was a lot of work for me, if I were to do it again, I would take out the shaft and half shafts and take it to someone that does it for a living it cost about $6.00 to $7.00 to put in each u-joint , well worth it IMHO. I bought mine at NAPA they had the zerks, i'm not sure if there is any great advantage with non-zerks. Putting it all back together is a lot of fun too.

Good luck

Doug

 

[DDLS3]

NAPA has the Rhino u-joints in stock with the pin fitting in the bearing cap. You will need to buy the special adapter to go on your grease gun to use the pin fitting. This type of joint is not weakened by the zerk drilled into the joint.

 

[Jack]

NAPA has the Rhino u-joints in stock with the pin fitting in the bearing cap. You will need to buy the special adapter to go on your grease gun to use the pin fitting. This type of joint is not weakened by the zerk drilled into the joint.

Is there a zerk (or something like a zerk) in one of the caps? All of the ones I've seen so far that do not have any zerk anywhere still have the body gun-drilled.
JACK:gap

 

[Scott81]

Here's something else that will help add some strength to your U-joints.

Heavy Duty Caps

 

[DDLS3]

Jack,

One bearing cap has a very small ball/cup installed in it. You need the tip that mates with the cup to go onto the end of your grease gun. The U-joint itself is cross drilled with very small passage so that all four bearings get grease.

 

[sscam69]

What the heck is a zerk, I feel like I am going crazy here!:crazy :crazy :Silly :Silly

 

[Jack]

What the heck is a zerk

It's a small greaseable fitting / nipple ... not much bigger than a beebee ... you'll find them on ball joints, tie rod ends, some ujoints, front axles of riding mowers etc. ... you slip the grease gun hose onto the zerk ... pump in the grease ... zerk has a tiny one-way check valve inside it. If you don't find your vette's zerks ... they'll soon find you!
JACK:gap

 

[wrc3]

Part No. for the Brute Force

This is off the Auto Zone Web Site in case you are interested.

BRUTE_FORCE U-JOINT for a 1976 CHEVROLET CORVETTE axle
$13.99
2-0053BF


BRUTE_FORCE U-JOINT for a 1976 CHEVROLET CORVETTE drive shaft
$13.99
2-4800BF

 

[wrc3]

I did all 6 of mine using a large bench vise, sockets, rubber mallet and a bunch of elbow grease. It was a lot of work for me, if I were to do it again, I would take out the shaft and half shafts and take it to someone that does it for a living it cost about $6.00 to $7.00 to put in each u-joint , well worth it IMHO. I bought mine at NAPA they had the zerks, i'm not sure if there is any great advantage with non-zerks. Putting it all back together is a lot of fun too.

Good luck

Doug

Must be Nice! Every place I have called is telling me 50 at least per halfshaft, so 25 a joint as opposed to your 7 bucks. I guess I will manually bang them out.

B

 

[Doug'sL81]

WRC3,

Is that $25 for labor only? or does it include the price of the u-joints $15.00 + labor $10.00? If its labor only, then do it yourself. I'll be glad to go over step by step on how I did it.

Doug

 

[sscam69]

How about we get a bit more technical on this.

As far as I know there are three types of U-Joints

The strongets is the 1350 series u-j. This does not have the internal passages to lubricate the bearings. Its solid on the inside there for a lot stronger and can take more abuse.

There there is the 1310 (I think thats what it is) series thats more of a regular u-j that you would put maybe in your grocery getter. It has the grease fitting or "zerks"

The middle one or 13xx is a bit stronger with the grease fitting for a bit more heavy duty apps.

Please somebody correct me if I am wrong, this is as far as I know how they classify U-J's.

 

[wrc3]

There's a small local Vette suspension shop that sells them either way, with or without zerks. He's very reputable and located just outside Leesburg. The name of the shop is B.A.K. Automotive and the number is (703) 669-6431 - ask for Mark and tell him Eric sent you.

Thanks for the info.
Talked to him yesterday and he sounds like a good guy. He is charging less than what everyone else was charging and he will sand blast and por-15 the half-shafts too!


The 25 a joint I was getting was labor only, I already bought the joints at Advance Auto.

B