Update: CLutch not disengaging Part 2

[waterboy1976]

Ok, we now grind going into reverse and only first...When you get it inot first as soon as you let off the clutch a little it grinds and poops out of gear. Reverse grinds going in but holds and moves nicely. 2nd and 3rd gear go in no grind, 2nd a little tougher going in but no grind and moves nicely also. Thought this was a clutch issue but now it sounds like something else...any suggestions???

 

[Stallion]

Not really knowing what the problem actually is, I would guess what you say: it doesn't sound like a clutch thing anymore. Maybe it was the tranny rebuild?

 

[waterboy1976]

Trans guy says that since reverse is not synchronized it is a clutch throwout problem. The disc (new) may have a high spot. Going to tear into it tomorrow to find out maybe I assembled it wrong.. springs on the throwout fork not in the same grooze, disc backwards (running open headers kinda hard to hear chatter). soooo well see.....

 

[Rob79er]

Waterboy, Whatever happened with your clutch not disengaging problem.? I have the exact same symptoms with my new Luk clutch kit and rebuilt S-T10. Here is what I got:

I've got a Brand New Clutch and Rebuilt Transmission. I also took off the shifter and Linkage to clean it up and lube it. I then installed it back in using the procedure in the manual whereby I lined up the notch in all of them and then tightened them down.

Here are the symptoms:

I am not able to shift into Reverse - It grinds badly so I have to turn the car off, shift into Reverse.
As I start driving the car, It will shift decently from 1st to 2nd etc. but if I have to stop completely it is very difficult to get it into 1st again. As soon as I turn the car off I am able to shift through all of the gears like a knife through butter - no problem.
Yes, I can put it into gear and then start it up. But sometimes if I start it up while in Reverse, the car will move very slightly rearward.
I adjusted the nuts on the alignment rod more towards the end of it so that the lower nut is about 1/2 inch from the end of the rod. There is definitely no more free play in the pedal.
I got the car on a steep hill, turned off the car and put it into gear. It would not roll. I then pushed the clutch in and it began to roll freely down the hill.
I have pulled the entire transmission and clutch and then replaced the pilot bushing with a new one. I first made sure that it slipped over the input shaft easily. I put just a small dab of grease on the end of the input shaft and some in the cavity behind the bushing. I checked out the disc for warpage and it checked out good- (its new).
Reinstalled all of it - The last inch of the tranny was stubborn until I pressed the clutch in.
Results- I sat in the car and shifted the gears w/out the clutch in ( and the car off)-- It shifted silky smooth. After I started it -- Same exact problems as before- Reverse is impossible unless the car is off . Forward gears are very difficult, especially when the car is stopped.
I have since driven the car 300 miles hoping that it would work itself out but it hasn't and I am getting a little frustrated driving it. I have gotten it on the highway at about 70 mph and then held the clutch in for a while.
Any other advice? thanks

 

[fine69]

"...have the exact same symptoms with my new Luk clutch kit and rebuilt S-T10..."

Rob79er,

I too experienced the same problems as you guys described when I installed my LUK clutch. Adjusting the the clutch rods, etc. was limited and did no good.

The problem was actually the length of the GM pivot stud. The LUK clutch requires a taller pivot stud. Its is part # LAC108, and can be purchased from Dial-a-Clutch (www.dialaclutch.com, or 877-225-8824).

Replacing the stud did the trick - lot's of room for adjustments, and she immediately ran like the devil!

I hate to tell you, but you're gonna have to remove the tranny to replace the stud.

Ralph

 

[Rob79er]

Thanks Ralph,
How did you know to replace the stud? Did this company make that recommendation too?
Rob

 

[fine69]

Thanks Ralph,
How did you know to replace the stud? Did this company make that recommendation too?
Rob

Like you, I just asked the good folks here in the CAC and got an answer. I'm happy to be able to pass along what I've learned!

 

[Artsvette73]

I had the same problem used the longer stud all is good. Once you have that sorted out. Try putting the trans in 1st gear before putting it in reverse. I had to do that when I had the M21.

 

[waterboy1976]

Longer stud is it....HOWEVER on mine it was a trans rebuild problem....I pulled the side cover only to finr the countershaft gear cluster all chewed up......and 2 and 3 gear sets were bad.......needless to say it was done again byt e same guy CORRECTLY and FREE......It sounds though as you have it figured out the longer ball stud should solve your problem with the adjustment....

 

[Rob79er]

I changed to the longer pivot stud and a new clutch fork and I am still having the same problem. Grinding going into Reverse. Shifting in forward gears is only difficult downshifting into 1st or Neutral to first.
Any other ideas?

 

[waterboy1976]

Rob....did you have the trans rebuilt?....ok yes you did....I read your first post.....who rebuilt it? Obviously mine was the problem...If you have a longer stud and you have adjusted the z bar under the master cylinder it could be a trans problem...If I shove mine into reverse immediatley after pressing in the clutch it has a moment of grinding but if I wait a second after pressing the clutch in no grinding...give it a second to stop spinning...