Valve stem seals (again!)

[boblx2a]

It appears that my '85 (52K) is starting to need valve stem seals. I have seen the customary puff of smoke on startup and I have noticed having to add oil more then 1 qt between 5K changes. My question is: Are there any other symptoms or do these symptoms sound more serious?
My '86 did not seem to need this cure until it had about 150K on it. But of course a prior owner had done a lot of engine work so maybe he had done the seals once already. Hard to tell about that. But I have owned the '85 since it had 37K on it and I am sure they have not been done.
Does anyone have the procedure fresh in your mind for someone who has never really done the job? I have read about it on this site at one time and have had it done to my other Vette but this time I need to do it myself and need a refresher course.

Thanks............Bob

 

[greenstingray]

valve seals part 1

Ok I'll try. Just changed mine on my 85 last winter. Things you will need: air compressor, hose with fitting to connect to your compressor. The other end goes in the spark plug hole. This will hold up your valves when you remove the rocker arm, nut and ball. You will need a spring compression tool, to compress the spring and buy one of those magnets they sell in the auto parts stores. The reason for this is you want to pick up the spring locks with magnet when you compress the spring. Pull off the valve spring and remove the small o-ring seal, and the remove the boot at the bottom. You will see that they are probaly cracked or will break off. Put spring back on compress it and reinstall the locks, reinstall your rocker arm, ball and nut, and move on.

 

[greenstingray]

Valve seal part 2

To remove the valve cover on the driver side, remove the windshield wiper motor first. Otherwise it won't come off. The pass side valve cover will come off alot eaier. I pass on advise I got from this site, GM make an upgrade kit for the valve seals buy this one. I hope this helps you may want some there just have and extra set of hands. I changed mine at 110,000, no more smoke.

 

[boblx2a]

Okay, lots of help so far.
What concerns me is why is this happening at 52K? I had mine changed on my '86 at 150K but it was causing the plugs to foul from ash build up. These don't appear to be doing that yet. Maybe the '86 should have been changed much sooner. It wound up plugging up all of my CATS which cost me about $1000.00 to have changed. I am much wiser about that now.
Anyway I don't really understand that "magnet" thing but I guess the parts store can straighten me out on it. It's kind of hard to get things across to me in print.

But thanks for your help folks. I'll let you know how much fun I have.


Thanks again..............Bob

 

[sumoboy]

Anyway I don't really understand that "magnet" thing but I guess the parts store can straighten me out on it. It's kind of hard to get things across to me in print.

The magnet comes on the end of a telescopic rod. They are used to remove the keepers (looks like a cone but it's split in two) for the valves. They hold the valve in place at the retainer and can be removed and installed once the spring is compressed.

 

[greenstingray]

VALVE SEALS

Thanks for explaination on the magnet. Your seals probaly dried up. 52,000 miles is not a lot of miles for an 85. Anyway I heard that GM had a lot of problems with valve seals in the l98 engine.

 

[raidoman]

Chev has had this since the old 1955 265 days due to the gun drilling process they have used since then on small blocks. I sold them the drills for many years so I know how this happens. I did my 87 at about 40k miles. Time hardens the O rings and they get brittle and fail. I put Felpro O rings on the stems and added their umbrella seals at the stem bases. Car now has 67k and I did this about 5 years ago. No problems since the fix.

 

[DanC]

I just did this procedure on my friends 85. Here is a tip to make removing the valve keeper a little easier.

When you have the rocker arms out of the way and before using the spring compressor, use a small ball pien hammer and give the valve spring retainer a small smack on the edge to break the seal between it and the tapered valve keepers. They have a tendency to get stuck and will be difficult to remove without breaking them loose first.

Just noticed the date of the original thread. Guess this tip is a little late for boblx2a