VATS - How do you control this???

[Greg-in-Bama]

VATS reply

C5PHIL, Yes, I will watch the ignition switch. So far though, the car has started every time now. Take care. Greg-in-bama

 

[Bob88vert]

vats

Keith, don't you have to jump those two wires with a resistor that is the same value as the resistor in your key????

 

[Greg-in-Bama]

Ignition switch

Hello people. Feeling kinda down :confused My darn VATS is still acting up. Still haven't done the resister thing yet. Guess I need to, huh?! I do have a question though... is there any lubricant that I could spray in my ignition switch to help lub it? Tried to take the key out the other day and have to fight with it. Would this also help clean off the contacts in there (or whatever it is in there) so maybe it would read my key better? I'm also going to the dealer today for a new key. Thanks for any advice! Greg

 

[Ken]

Hey Greg, I just had the same friggin' problem show up on mine again yesterday. My key has been difficult to remove once in a while in the past, so maybe I'll replace the ignition switch (the actual tumbler and all) to see if that will solve it. The problem is, you never can tell if you hit on the root of the problem because it is so intermittent. ad

The switch in the column will be the last thing for me to change out, and isn't that usually the case when you're troubleshooting something -- it's always the last thing at the bottom of the list. :eyerole

I'll keep y'all informed; you do the same Greg, ok?

_ken

 

[Greg-in-Bama]

ignition switch

Ken,
So you don't think a little spray lube will free things up in the switch? Never really tried to remove an ignition switch before. Is it a *****? That might be better than anything! It comes with a new key, right? Thanks, Greg

 

[Greg-in-Bama]

Woops...

Seems like we can't use words of bad mouth...woops, sorry. I was asking if it was difficult to change an ignition switch. You know, is it a _____ ? A female dog; something very unpleasant or difficult; a spiteful or overbearing woman. I think you know what word it was. Sorry ladies, it's just what the dictionary says. Ken, do you know what I mean? If it's too much of a _____ than I'm not even trying it. Hey....wait, a friend of mine loves Chevy's. Tell me what you think Ken, (or anyone else) and I'm going to call him too. Thanks, Greg

 

[Ken]

I haven't tried it yet Greg, but I hear it isn't easy for some reason or another. Why, I don't know; it looks like any other ignition switch installation from outward appearances. :confused

As for another part to my side of this no-start situation...

I just got back from sitting on the corner, a half-block from my garage, waiting for AAA. The damn thing just up and died on me again as I approached the stop sign; it cranks and cranks but won't fire! ad

Great, I thought, at least it cranks, which could indicate it to be the same problem I had in Nevada where I simply "bubba'd" a loose connection with electrical tape. Nope, that wasn't it.

I found a wire that has a few strands of wire that are partially broken, leading to one of the relays beside the wiper motor (One is for the fuel pump and the other in my case is for the DN overdrive unit.), but the majority of the strands are intact. And since I added all that extra insulation with the interior re-do, I can no longer hear if the fuel pump is coming on when you turn the key. Add to that the fact that I am alone here and have no remote start switch to crank it while I check for spark, I'm dead in the water in my driveway.

The GOOD thing is at least it's in MY driveway.

I know this doesn't help you, but I had to vent. Son-of-a-*****! :L Sorry.

_ken

 

[Greg-in-Bama]

Vette stalling

Hey Ken, that sounds like the same thing that happened to me back a few months ago. I was tooling down the road when all of a sudden, going up a slight hill, the engine starts to sputter. Then shuts off for a split second, then refires. I thought, O.K., could be the fuel pump getting ready to go...1/4 mile later it does it again and boom, tach goes to zero... total engine failure. To make a long story short, it turned out to be my coil and pickup coil. You know those HEI's run really hot, and one of those three coil wires (yellow, red and black), the red one I think, had broke in two. If yours is still cranking though, it's not the coil, so a fuel delivery problem is probably the culprit. Fuel pump, clogged injector(s), trash in the fuel rails, fuel filter, trash in gas tank, burnt fuel pump fuse....man, it sounds like you have a trial and error day ahead of you Ken! Good luck. I know these cars aren't much fun working on, but man are they fun to drive!! Keep us posted with what the problem was. Take care, Greg

 

[Ken]

I ain't got it figured out yet Greg. ad I gotta get some electrical stuff first (Either the plug itself or the metal connectors for the ends of the wires -- I don't have that particular style on hand.), and I'll replace both of the relays while I'm at it. Who knows, maybe I'll fix the overdrive problem as well; that relay or the connections might be bad too. :eyerole

It looks like I'm finally gonna have to break down and buy a remote start switch too, because without help, it's impossible for me to check to see if I have spark when it cranks.

I don't know if you've seen the report on my Road Trip, but I went through one ignition module and two coils in just a couple of weeks. At least that was their diagnosis -- that they were bad. Now I gotta read up on how to check a coil. (Is there a way to check the module?)

So much wiring + so much time = dry, brittle, loose, broken, frayed, etc., etc., etc. = ...so-o-o-o much work!

I'm gettin' too old for this ****! :L

BroKen :Roll

 

[Yoda]

Hey BroKen,

Remember this You just gotta LOVE these old Corvettes if you going to drive 'em?

:L :L :L

YoDa
The master rock collector

 

[bradfordsvettes]

the cylinder is where the key goes only and is not to bad of a job if you have the tools the resistor is the easy fix but defeats the anti theft although you could also put a switch in series and hide it for theft deterent ,the ignition switch is further down the column and is for starting and 12volt switching only:crazy

 

[Ken]

:nono You touched a nerve with me on that one Keith. I won't say any more. :nono

_ken

 

[Ken]

No offense taken Keith, the only offense I take is when people use insurance companies as an excuse not to worry about their own car, or any of their personal belongings for that matter; like it's not their responsibility or something. ad

_ken

 

[Greg-in-Bama]

IMHO Vats

Keith,

Chalk one up for me. I agree! Here's to ya! Here's what GM ought to do with that guys' job I bet that guy has been doing a lot of this lately HaHa! I like those clickable smilies :t I could use one in every sentance :Silly Woops! Already have :eek

:cool


Yea Keith, this thread is towards an earlier thread. You had it titled (or had this in the content) "IMHO Vats". Everyone with me?
:cool

 

[Ken]

Right here in our own...

Knowledgebase, I may have uncovered another clue to my intermittent no-start condition:

Q: Service Bulletin: 1986-1987: Intermittent No-Start Condition Caused by Vehicle Anti-Theft System
Corvette Action Center, 2002-01-16 06:01:04

A: Source: Chevrolet Dealer Service Bulletin
Number: 87-140
Section: 8A
Date: May, 1987
Subject: INTERMITTENT NO-START CONDITION CAUSED BY THE VEHICLE ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM (VATS)
Model Year: 1986-1987 Corvette

TO: ALL CHEVROLET DEALERS

Some 1986-1987 Corvettes have been returned to dealerships for repair because of an intermittent no-start condition. in some cases, the vehicle may start after waiting for approximately 2 minutes.

This condition could be caused by a damaged ignition lock cylinder or damaged resistor pellet inside the ignition key. This causes the VATS module to sense an intermittent resistance value or open circuit at the pellet, which then shuts the system down for approximately 2 minutes. (Refer to the 1986 Corvette Shop Manual pages 8A-133-6 through 8A-133-13 or the VATS Pro Tech PTF-1 booklet for a more detailed description of the system.)

An improved ignition lock cylinder with a narrower keyway and an improved longer ignition key are now available from GMSPO to repair vehicles with this condition. Vehicles that come in for other mechanical lock cylinder problems should also have the improved lock cylinder installed.

PARTS INFORMATION

Ignition Lock Cylinder: P/N: 26008775

• 
  IGNITION KEY PART NUMBERS
• 26009031 Code # 1
• 26009032 Code # 2
• 26009033 Code # 3
• 26009034 Code # 4
• 26009035 Code # 5
• 26009036 Code # 6
• 26009037 Code # 7
• 26009038 Code # 8
• 26009039 Code # 9
• 26009040 Code # 10
• 26009041 Code # 11
• 26009042 Code # 12
• 26009043 Code # 13
• 26009044 Code # 14
• 26009045 Code # 15

New keys (3) must be ordered when replacing the lock cylinder. Check the old key to obtain the proper code to order using the (J35628) VATS Interrogator. Original design lock cylinders will operate with new design keys, however, new design lock cylinder, P/N 26008775, will not operate with original design keys.

Notice: Vehicles built after VIN H5120579 * have the improved lock cylinder and longer keys in them.

Use applicable labor operation.

Chevrolet Motor Division
General Motors Corporation

* My VIN is 15137. Makes sense.

_ken

 

[FX3FX3]

VATS

I fixed my problem with a pencil's eraser. With the eraser clean the key. That may help;help It worked for me.

 

[RubyDropTop]

A pencil eraser...that's interesting. Never heard of that before. How about using rubbing alcohol? Would that be just as effective? :confused

 

[FX3FX3]

key

alcohol may get the key drunk

 

[silver-eagle]

A pencil eraser...that's interesting. Never heard of that before. How about using rubbing alcohol? Would that be just as effective? :confused

It is a common technique, even documented in [computer] repair guides for diagnosing intermitent problems. What it does is buffs the contact points. It does work, sometimes.
Problem is oxidation and dirt. Make sure to clean any eraser off.
As to using alcohol, not while you're driving.
-John

 

[Henri 79]

Looked at your starter yet?

Some guys in our Corvette Club owning C4's have been driven mad with this VATS problem. They tried everything, even bypassing the system with resistors.

If even that doesn't work, have a look at your starter. I bet most of the time the no-start situation arises with a hot engine. Even C4 starters don't like hot engines...