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Ventilation Information

Joined
Aug 29, 2001
Messages
3,239
Location
Norcross, Georgia, United Stat
Corvette
2017 Arctic White Grand Sport
Earlier this year I had designed and posted a web page outlining the specifics of working on some of the components of the ventilation system. This was done with the assistance of various members here and posted in the technical area to assist the memers.

Since then I have gotten a better understanding and added additional information. Please take the time to take a look at this page and give me some feedback. Does it make sense, is it accurate, etc. If you have additional pictures that would help in the explanation, please send them to me and I'll add them and give you credit. For example, Chris is going to send me some pictures of the outside area of the cowl.

Thanks.

Bob

http://home.attbi.com/~jchadwick/ventilation.htm
 
My Vette runs rather cold - a chilly 165 degrees.

However, the absolue DECAY of all of my weather stripping has lead to the blowing of "lukewarm air" rather than HOT air. It took running the heater and feeling a draft from next to the assembly under the hood to realize this. Unfortunately, the original plastic ears that allow the vent outlet housings to bolt to the dash have broken off. They broke off when I unbolted them to paint the dash. Eeech.

I too have run through the vent system on a C3, specifically my '78 and my dad's '82. It can be a pain.
-You have a primary vacuum line that comes off the check valve system adjacent to the headlight vacuum power. I removed that gasket PERMANANTLY when I ran my TPI harness through the opening.
-The vacuum source then enters (and exits) through the firewall at a HUGE grommet behind the distributor. Sometimes the hoses crack and leak at this fitting.
-This grommet also contains the heater shut off valve's vacuum line. I replaced all the plastic hard line and just used a high quality rubber replacement, and used rubber cement as a sealant whenever I needed it.
- I have never known the multi-function vacuum line fitting for the control lever to ever leak. Its made of a very pliable, oily vinyl. Even at 25 years it still seals!
-Unless you are really creative, you should use the factory style seals and rubber. If you like headaches... by all means do it the hard way.

Hopefully these tid bits will be useful.
 
DarkShark78 said:
-Unless you are really creative, you should use the factory style seals and rubber. If you like headaches... by all means do it the hard way.

I agree. And the good thing is that these parts are still available in a lot on instances.

Bob
 

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