VINs

[Stallion]

In "How to Restore & Modify Your Corvette 1968-82", I just recently read about VIN (vehicle identification numbers) and their uses. But, just a quick question on how exactly they work and what/how to look for when in the market for a Vette.

So, there's this VIN on the engine-block itself, right? And, I'm not sure I understand this, but is there than another VIN on the body of the Vette? And then if the two VINs match they were both together originally?

Is my understanding of VINs wrong? If so, how do they work?

Thanks!

TR

 

[Eric]

You're doing the right thing asking all of these questions before buying! Be sure to review and memorize the Corvette Glossary which includes an answer to your question under Matching Numbers.

What you're talking about is the VIN derivative stamped on the block. It contains a portion of the actual VIN found on the drivers side windshield pillar of Sharks. If the numbers match then the engine is original in theory. The numbers can be faked but it sin't easy and pros can tell the difference. There are lots of other numbers as well on everything under the hood that are date coded for a car. Continue your education and you will be much happier when you go to buy.

Carlisle will be a good place to see the full range from swiss cheese frames to NCRS Top Flight cars.

 

[Stallion]

Okay, that's what I thought it would be like with VINs. Would you suggest that I buy a Vette that the numbers match? Personally, I think I would like the originality of the original block in there. But...should I be picky? You know what they say, beggars can't be choosey.

TR

 

[smurfvet]

A "numbers matching" car will always be more expensive than a car with non-original parts installed. That goes for intakes, exhaust manifolds, carbs, etc,etc. You need to check these also to make sure some obvious parts weren't changed. All this info on correct date codes and part numbers can be found in the "NCRS Pocket Guide" to the particular year car you want to purchase. There are a number of other publications that have this info, but this is the best reference I found. You really need to have something like this reference book with you when you go out to look at the cars.

Think about this- will it be a "driver" or a "showpiece"? If you want to show it, original everything is the only way you can go. If you are going to drive the car and enjoy it, as compared to a total correct restoration and going for trophies, and want some performance beyond what the original vehicle can provide, you have to do some serious thinking. The author of the book you got last week has some good comments about rebuilding an original L-48 "low hp" engine. He's right.

Just remember, YOU need to decide how the car will be used. You should expect to pay less (to a point) for a "non-matching numbers" car as compared to a "numbers matching" car, both in equal condition otherwise. Likewise, you will also get less if and when you sell.

 

[Stallion]

I will definitely strive for my Vette to look real nice and as good as possible, but it won't be a "show" Vette. It's going to be a "driving" Vette. That's a definite.

I guess I won't be too picky on when the numbers match or not, but I'll look into it. Thanks!

TR