Here's a little Web Wisdom about c2 current leaks.
Battery Drain - I had a problem with my voltage regulator unit (not solid state). The field relay in the unit would not open when the ignition switch was turned off. It seems that this would let some current flow to the accessory position, but not enough to run any accessories so it wasn't obvious. This would drain my battery in one day. If you remove the cover of your regulator you can see the relay. It is the one with one set of points. Make sure they open when you turn off the ignition.
Battery drain tracing: If you are good with electricity, use a multimeter on 'amps' with a 10 amp circuit in the multimeter. (Problem 1- many multimeters don't have a 10 amp circuit. Problem 2- the fuse inside the meter is easily blown, voiding your tests) An easier way on a non computer car is to hook a 12v test light between the battery cable and the battery post with the cable off. [Pull your clock fuse to prevent it from tricking you into thinking there is a drain. If you have a digital stereo, pull those fuses too.] If there is a battery drain, the test light will be on. If you're pretty sure no interior lights are left on like the others mentioned, the next most likely culprits would be a shorted diode in the alternator or a stuck voltage regulator. Both of them are likely. Unplug the regulator and see if your drain goes away, and unbolt the fat wire off of the back of the alternator to see if the problem is there. If all of these are unplugged and the test light is still on, I'd start pulling fuses. Remember that there are several circuits not fused, though. Another one I've seen is an aftermarket Holley with the electric choke hooked up to the wrong place.
