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Warm Engine Stall... Help Please...

SSTibet

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 13, 2004
Messages
722
Location
Ankara TURKEY
Corvette
1995 6 Speed Manual Coupe
I had my EGR and IAC valves cleaned a few weeks ago and what I would describe as "engine stall when the the car is at operating temperature" seemed like okay after the cleaning. Now I have the same problem again after driving the the car for 15 - 20 miles in city traffic. The whole hood starts shaking and I have to push on the throttle to stop it from stalling. After stopping the car and turning of the engine for half an hour or so the problem goes away; but of course I am feared it may come back in the middle of the traffic again... I suspect quality of the local fuel but I am not sure if that could be the cause. And I am getting the SES message from time to time...

Does anyone know what may be the reason(s) for this??? Please help...

:cry :cry :cry
 
Check your catalytic converters. Sometimes when they deteriorate, they'll clog the exhaust system, then when it cools they'll free-up again and the car will run fine for a while, until the system warms up again. It's worth a shot. ;)
 
Ken said:
Check your catalytic converters. Sometimes when they deteriorate, they'll clog the exhaust system, then when it cools they'll free-up again and the car will run fine for a while, until the system warms up again. It's worth a shot. ;)
As you may have noticed I am in Turkey. Previous owner of the car has "emptied" the catalytic converters to gain some Hp (how stupid!) ... Since there is not much about environmental controls here it is not a problem!!!

So, would I have this problem when the converters are "empty"?

:confused
 
Code Retrieval...

Vettefan87 said:
Retrieve what codes your getting they should be stored in the computer, then go from there.
Unfortunately my mechanic here does not have the scanner tool to retrieve the trouble codes (I am in Turkey...). I am therefore looking for practical advice.

Still, thanks for your recommendation.

:beer
 
I am sure it is the fuel... Some "bastardos" here sell with low quality fuel that contains water... Since the car does not behave the same (i.e. problematic) all the time I think that is what the problem is...
 
Yes, I just thought about it when I read this thread but the gas in my car is about a month and a half old since the engine was being rebuilt and and put back in. I have not really payed attention if it does it when its just hot or not but it did do it when the coolant and oil were like 185.
 
SSTIBET

I think your car has OBD II which is on board diagnostics. On my car their is a little connector under the drivers side dash right above my right knee when sitting in the car. If your mechanic has any kind of manual he should be able to figure it out. Using a jumper wire short the two necessary terminals then turn your key to the on position(do not start). Your service engine soon light will blink the codes that are stored in the computer.

I am not too familar with the 95 somebody else should be able to help more i hope.

good luck
craig
 
Heeeeeelp Pleaaaaase....

vetteboy86 said:
SSTIBET

I think your car has OBD II which is on board diagnostics. On my car their is a little connector under the drivers side dash right above my right knee when sitting in the car. If your mechanic has any kind of manual he should be able to figure it out. Using a jumper wire short the two necessary terminals then turn your key to the on position(do not start). Your service engine soon light will blink the codes that are stored in the computer.

I am not too familar with the 95 somebody else should be able to help more i hope.

good luck
craig
Can anyone elaborate more on the above quoted recommendation? Please???

:cry :cry :cry
 
To my knowledge their is a connector that you can hook various tools to. My girlfriend has a 95 Olds Cutlass, and i was able to retrieve the codes by using a jumper wire between terminals A and B. I am pretty sure your car has one, even though we aren't talking about an Olds Cutlass. Their has to be somebody with an LT-1 that can help you with this situation. Is your mechanic familar with the On board diagnostics system?

Let me know what else I need to elaborate on.

craig
 
Thanks Vetteboy86

I have two Corvette repair manuals and I will review the relevant sections for your recommendations. I guess I have to get some more knowledge before asking smarter questions. I have been so dumb; I am sorry.

But hey, thanks a million for the assistance Vetteboy86

:beer
 
1995 is OBD I not OBD II.

Anyway, do you drive the car until the fuel tank is almost empty all the time? I am wondering if maybe the fuel pump is going bad and will have problems when it gets warm. How many miles on the car?

I reason I asked about letting the fuel get low is that the fuel in the tank acts as a Coolant to the fuel pump. if you run the fuel to 1/4 or less alot, the pump will have a shorter life.
 
Running with Low Fuel - NEVER

Nope, my fuel tank is almost always half full or better; I have read articles and forums saying that the fuel is also the coolant for the pump and low fuel levels will cause low component life.

But quality of fuel here is almost always a problem unless you have identified a good gas station... I guess I need to fuel up from certain ones only in the future.

On a different note, I am reading that some of the 94 - 96 Vettes are OBDI and some are OBDII. I thinnk you wrote to me in a diferent forum that the OBDII cars have two O2 sensors per side; one before and one after the catalytic convertor. I am not sure about what my car has... But the "Assembly Line Data Link" has 16 terminals and Hayne's manual says this is a OBDII; I need to check my convertors to see how many O2 sensors I got.
 
You know, I have read that as well concerning the 94-96 cars, btu I know OBDII, but my friend has a 1994 COrvette with the 16pin connector and it is OBDI. In fact the 1995 and 1994 may have some fo the stuff that is used in OBDII but is still OBD I. OBD II did not come out until 1996
 
It is true. The 95 has an OBDI computer with an OBDII connector.
 
programming

You're all smoking crack. It's a '95 and has been somewhat modified, because it's in Turkey. Get the C.A.T.S. programming module, along with the cable (provided you have a laptop), about $130 and adjust your S and L values, along with your idle at cold and hot, and with or without a/c. It's not that tough, I did it with my stroked 383. :)
 
correct

and bnhynum is right about the OBD1 computer with the OBD2 connectors, it was an experiment designed for the '96 and newer. I know because I have it, and it's a pain in the ass.
 
onefast95vette said:
You're all smoking crack. It's a '95 and has been somewhat modified, because it's in Turkey. Get the C.A.T.S. programming module, along with the cable (provided you have a laptop), about $130 and adjust your S and L values, along with your idle at cold and hot, and with or without a/c. It's not that tough, I did it with my stroked 383. :)

Noooope, the car has not been modified axcept for gutting of the catalytic convertors... Rest of it is original...
I also had the car throughly checked by the diagnostic computer and everything is working fine except for `right hand O2 sensor fault`...

So what are your comments???
 

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