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Water Pump Replacement

RonnieH

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2002
Messages
85
Location
Henrico, NC
Corvette
2012 Crystal Red Metallic
I had a water pump on my '90 that was making sounds like it was going bad. Since it sits in the garage for most of the winter, I thought this a good time to do the nasty job. I used an article from Corvette Fever as a guide. Their picture tutorial was great - until I started to tear into mine. The A/C bracket and air pump and bracket was nothing like the pictures/article. Just thought I'd post this for anyone contemplating a water pump change on a '90 (I don't know which other year Vettes are similiar). One thing I will share with everyone which may help speed up your process.

When removing the A/C compressor, there are 4-10mm bolts. The top ones facing out toward the passenger side wheel well were easy to get out and remove. The bottom ones were h--- until my dumb butt figured out the secret (after it took me about an hour to remove the bottom bolts before figuring out how to do it. Look in the passenger side inner fender - there are 5-10mm bolts and 2-5mm (I think they were 5mm) bolts. Take those out, remove the panel and you have ez access to the bottom bracket bolts for the A/C compressor. The list of tools mentioned in the Corvette Fever article was accurate (need a 9/16 socket additionally). One other thing I'd recommend - remove the front right tire/wheel. Bending over and working down in the bottom of the motor compartment is tough on the back after awhile. Not to mention all the tire dressing will ruin a perfectly good pair of jeans. Some of the bolts were a bear to break loose, and it helps the leverage to be able to get closer to where you are working.

I changed out the serpentine belt, thermostat, flushed the radiator, installed a new fan thermal switch (cuts the fan on at about 200 degrees vs. the 225 factory switch) from Mid-America. Added Water Wetter and new anti-freeze and all is well. I'll have to wait until summer to see how much difference the fan switch and Water Wetter have on the cooling system.

Hope this helps someone who may be contemplating a similiar job. Be patient - trying to figure out which hoses, electrical connectors to disconnect - not to mention whoever designed that system was a masochist.
 
know the feeling

Well I know the feeling had to do mine also...wish I would have had your ideas first.. but got it done...do have a question, what is the part number and cost for the thermal switch,vendor is mid america? would like to lower my one also, 225 just sounds so bad to me...an I know it gets there as i do a lot of city driving...hate to see that 225 degree on the dash... thanks for the help...:w
 
About the bending over. When I work under the hood for extended time I put the car up on jack stands as high as I can get it, that puts it up there where things are within reach.When your 6'2" things get a lot easier this way.

Glenn
:w
 
CoolingFan Switch Part #

Well I know the feeling had to do mine also...wish I would have had your ideas first.. but got it done...do have a question, what is the part number and cost for the thermal switch,vendor is mid america? would like to lower my one also, 225 just sounds so bad to me...an I know it gets there as i do a lot of city driving...hate to see that 225 degree on the dash... thanks for the help...:w

The fan switch (Part #PN 609-106)and conversion wiring harness (Part # 609-108) are available from Mid-America Motorworks for $16.99 ea. Very easy to install. I'd recommend adding a bottle of Redline Water Wetter even if you don't install the fan switch. Mid-America has the Water Wetter for $9.99. Most of the larger parts/accessories stores carry it as well. I got mine at Pep Boys for $6.99. With the fan kicking in earlier and the water wetter, coolant temp. in the car has barely reached 200 degrees so far in limited driving, so hopefully the results will be almost as good in heavy summer driving. I just hated sitting thru a couple of stop light cycles in the summer and seeing the temp. gauge at 245 degrees, even though that is what the engine is designed for. Another trick for lowering coolant temp. is reducing the antifreeze/water concentration to less than 50%. Some of the drag racers in the area run their coolant at 15% (I'm not suggesting anyone go that low). I have never dropped my concentration less than 50/50, but with 40% coolant, there shouldn't be a problem and you may see some reduction in overall coolant temp.

Hopefully, anybody contemplating a water pump change will also change out the bottom radiator hose. Mine looked virtually new, but I don't want to have to go thru the whole process again to change out a ruptured lower radiator hose.
 
Water Pump R & R

+1 on changing the lower hose when you do the pump. I changed mine when I changed the pump because I saw no way to do it without the pump off. Those bottom bolts on the A/C bracket were indeed a PITA!
 

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