Weather strip install gone horribly wrong!!!

[firedawg]

Got a new problem :eyerole I finally decided to replace my leaking weather strip around the windshield with a repro one from Mid America Designs/Motorworks. Sat it on the windshield to make sure it looked right, and it did, so I ripped out the old strip, took all adheasive off with 3M and proceeded to put the new one on.
Me and my friend started off in the middle of the windshield and would work our way around to the bottoms, well, we got to the ends of the top and one side fit perfectly, and my side (driver side) still had like an inch extra sticking out! we racked our minds to think of a way to get this to work, and nothing was coming up, old strip came off in a million pieces, and my car is a daily driver, so I couldn't exactally leave it without anything (a storm was rolling in to rub a little salt in the wound! ad ) So we decided to use a bunch of glue and try to make it work. we finished up and the passanger side still had a small gap between window and strip. I moved over to the driver side and closed the door, the strip pushed the window out so it was about an inch from the roof, so I messed around with it a little and had to close it lightly just so it latches, then "bump" it in the rest of the way while pushing in the window.
I went to the body shop today, they said the Repro strips are like that alot of the time, he would only use GM. I got a quote to have him put it in, $475! That would bring my grand total including the one that is on there now to $625! I'm going to call MAD to see if they can do anything but I don't expect them to take it back as it is already on there with adheasive all over it and the driver side window is working a hole in the new one.
Of course it has rained all day today, is supposed to rain tomorrow and Monday and Tuesday!

Sorry, Just needed to vent! Has anyone had this problem with Repro weatherstrip?

 

[BigRed]

Yep..


When installing repro stripping (most GM) you have to install the strip DRY get it to where you want by pulling and pushing then once your satisfied pull back the stripping in small portions using actual WEATHERSTRIP adhesive (yellow gooey stuff from 3M is what I use) then press. The adhesive will allow you to manipulate it some more for a small amount of time afterwards for some fine tuning.

But putting it in wet and working it IS possible but you seriously have got to know what your doing from prior jobs.

See if you can pull it out (baby steps) and try this again is my suggestion.

 

[berky2500]

My only experience with weatherstrip is replacing the windshield strip on my 85. I bought from these guys and I'm reasonably happy with the results. Before changing the strip, I would get water pouring into my car during a hard rain (found out the hard way in Bowling Green 700 mi from home). The strip fit much better than you described, all of the holes lined up and the length was right on all around. There were no gaps when I was done.

I said reasonably happy because I did have to take part of it off and on two more times because my top kept leaking at the corners of the windshield and running down the weather strip and then into the interior. I've had to use silicone and weatherstrip adhesive in several places to close gaps that I think are caused more by my top being tweaked or my windshield having been replaced poorly or something. I also had to adjust both windows a good bit to get a good fit. In a hard rain, I will get 10-15 drops down the passenger side, but I haven't been able to figure out where to stop.

The GM strip is supposed to be softer, and many people swear that is the only way to go. Me, the cost has kept me away from the GM strip, but I haven't seen first hand how much better it is. I'm still on the fence.

I know this isn't a definitive answer, more of an opinion, but it is the best i can offer at the time.

 

[firedawg]

When I put on the strip, it was dry. I used the 3M Black weatherstrip adheasive. We tried to work it as much as we could, but there was so much excess that it wouldn't have done much good without either pushing the roof panal up making it hard to get on, or messing up one of the doors (like it did with the drivers side.
I'm afraid to try to pull it out because if it breaks, then I'm really in trouble, since I wouldn't have anything to replace it with.

 

[SSTibet]

Ecklers Part

I had the same w/strip replaced in my 95 Vette by using the part supplied from Ecklers. Although it is not "perfect" it is 99% okay. My problem was having small voids in the corners of the A-frame (where the windshiled meets the pasanger / driver side windows) and I shawed small pieces from the old strip into these pockets. I am pretty crazy about the quality of any work done on my Vette and I do not notice these voids at all.

What I noticed during installation of the w/strip was that it was really a snug fit to its cavity; the mechanic had to pull the ends of the strip so that the pins would get into the holes in the frame. It was such a good fit is what I am trying to tell you.

We also changed the w/strip for driver side of the T-top and it also had a near perfect compliance. It has a small detail (rear corner towards the hatch) that is not the same as the right (passanger side) strip... But what the heck, it was worth the price.

Well well well, that's all the good news. Bad news is material quality of the stips from Ecklers is not equivalent to GM original... These have a harder surface texture. GM original strips are soft like velvet, Ecklers is harder looking and they are indeed harder... The reproduction windshiled strip from Ecklers is US$199.99 (Part no A2905, that's what I have) and GM original is US$299.99 (Part no 41133, was not available when I bought the reproduction).

Art's Corvette Parts delivers the part for US$233.45 (Part no EYL68887); although the price is better than Eckler's GM original they do not state whether it is GM original or reproduction. So you need to check that out with Art's. Their phone number is 954-763-1123 and fax is 954-763-9911. Web site address is http://www.artscorvetteparts.com

Hope this help your budget my friend...

 

[RoyalViking]

First off I would like to appologize for bringing back a thread from 2004.

I just bought an aftermarket windshield replacement weatherstrip. I was planning to put it in this weekend. If you find that it extends past the corners couldn't you slice some out of the middle to take up the slack? (Obviously you would then have to glue the pieces at the seam).

 

[boomdriver]

First off I would like to appologize for bringing back a thread from 2004.

I just bought an aftermarket windshield replacement weatherstrip. I was planning to put it in this weekend. If you find that it extends past the corners couldn't you slice some out of the middle to take up the slack? (Obviously you would then have to glue the pieces at the seam).

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Its useless with any cuts or wounds.

ALWAYS install weatherstrip WITHOUT ANY glue the first try. The "fit" has to be learned by the guy doing it more than the rubber itself. Its very easy to stretch the rubber as its laid in place. Having "extra" at the end is common and the very best reason why you do NOT want to use glue the first "fitting". Its like buying a suit. Get it "fitted" to look nice, or just stick it on and live with the wrinkles.:ugh

The secret is having sterile clean tracks to lay the rubber in. Use a dremmel tool with a wire wheel or something similar to remove all traces of the old stuff. Lay the new rubber in a 1/2" at a time and use something like a bondo spreader to tuck the edges in without pulling it lengthwise, which causes the stretching. Stretching it makes it go it easier because that makes it thinner. Thinner makes it longer, and seal less.

After a "practice" fit, you will see exactly where the rubber is a little loose in the tracks and you can use glue ONLY where needed. less is better. I did my A pillar and probably did not use a teaspoon of 3M on the whole section. A very thin line where it was loose and it fits perfectly. It will also be able to be removed without a chisle.

 

[RoyalViking]

I've replace weatherstrip in other cars I have owned and never had problems. I thought with all of the comments I have seen that this was the norm.

I don't have to be in a hurry to do this so I can take the time to get it right.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[boomdriver]

I've replace weatherstrip in other cars I have owned and never had problems. I thought with all of the comments I have seen that this was the norm.

I don't have to be in a hurry to do this so I can take the time to get it right.

Thanks for the advice.

I guess the single most important thing is patience. The "dry run" takes time, but it shows you exactly where your ends will be and where/when you need to stretch or bunch it up a little. I found the roof panel sides to be more difficult that the A pillar because of their thickness and depth of the track, which made it tempting to try to stretch to get it in. Thats how I discovered that working about 1/2" at a time with a plastic spreader (4" long) gets it in there without stretching.

If I remember right, there are a couple push-pins in the corners of the A pillar so those have to be "right".
Pins or screws, can;t remember.

This weatherstrip material is not solid....its a soft open-cell foam with a skin, so breaks or cuts ruin its ability to seal.
Good luck with the project!