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what clutch to buy?

J

Jerrysoc

Guest
I have a 2000 C-5 that has a lot of chatter in the clutch. The car only has 29022 miles on it, and it was never, ever abused. I still can't figure out why that happened. Can anyone give me some advise as to what cluth assembly I should put in the car, stock or aftermarket?
 
L

LonestarZ

Guest
C5 Clutch To Buy

I'm considering the Z06 clutch. I tested a Z06 before purchasing my coupe and it was not too stiff.
 
L

LonestarZ

Guest
C5 Clutch To Buy

Thanks man. It's great to be here and actually OWN a Vette. life is good. :D
 

krnlpnc

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2005
Messages
22
Location
California
Corvette
1998 Artic White Coupe
My stock clutch started going around 62K miles. As the second owner of the car I was disappointed to realize that the original owner must have been hard on the clutch because I certainly never was. Replaced with a Z06 clutch and aluminum flywheel. The race shop that did the instal regularly puts Z06 clutches in weekend track cars with great results for both power handling and longevity. The aluminum fly wheel seemed to bring a slight increase in rev speed, as advertised. Although at exactly 2000rpm in any gear it produces an odd vibration which they say "normal" and due to the flywheel. While not horrible, I'm still looking for a better explanation.
 
N

n2zo6stuff

Guest
I'm new to the site an the Corvette world as well. Regarding what clutch to buy, I have a 03 Z06 with 30k miles on it. When it's time to change my clutch, i feel the Textralia clutch is what i'm going with.
Damon
 
L

LonestarZ

Guest
What clutch to buy

I haven't purchased a clutch yet. Did your Z06 get driven aggressively during that 1st 30K ?
 
N

n2zo6stuff

Guest
I don't believe it did. I tend to baby it because of all the stories i've heard about vette's being soft an not durable like a mustang or camero. I love my vette an i take care of it but every now an then i grab a few gears an she performs an she should.
Damon
 

vettenuts

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 13, 2000
Messages
123
Location
Wakefield, RI
Corvette
2002 Mag Red Convertible
If your car is basically stock, the Z06 clutch (not the C6 version) would probably be a good clutch.
 

zagger

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2006
Messages
468
Location
San Diego
Corvette
99 C5 Convertible
krnlpnc what is localvette.net and how does one get on?

I keep geting the password window, did I miss something?
 

cntrhub

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 17, 2002
Messages
390
Location
North Hollywood, Ca.
Corvette
Miss my '62 & '80 4- Sp. Vettes
IMO, I'd stay stock. Since we're looking at a lot of stop and go pedal moves, plus I bet the fork and ball were never shot with anti-seize every now and then, I'd change out:
1. Clutch Friction
2. Pressure Plate
3. Throw-out Bearing
4.Fork (lube anti-seize)
5. Ball (lube ^ on assy)
6. Flywheel* (*shop manual?)
If you have the $$, then a new flywheel. Shave the flywheel surface to save money? Remember that the plate is machined thinner*, which means the hydraulic (piston) throw is going to create a lower pedal feel? When the clutch wears out this time, the gears will grind and shifting will drag when finding neutral.
Don't know if the shop manual offers a wear limit where no machining is required because of the performance tolerances, or there is some sort of leeway?

Personally, I see the clutch parts as a 6 piece assembly to replace as "one single unit"... but hey, that's just me. The above was more for the rattled out high milers.
As for the chatter, Jerrysoc, I can't see how a 30K clutch would go out that soon? My "chatter" thoughts fall in the line of; Miss-matched rear wheel-to-engine rpm clutch release? Now, if you can simply release the clutch pedal without your foot on the throttle and the chatter is still there... then for sure, the friction my have cooked?
My thinking for this friction chatter is someone... (e.g.), who "holds the pedal in", and doesn't think to keep the friction plate cooler, by letting the heat dissipate thru the clutch assembly?
Do you find neutral at a light, or hold the clutch pedal in, waiting for green in 1st gear? Do you slip the clutch (friction = higher heat) in traffic? Do you (then) push the pedal in and coast up to the car in front of you? Or, do you leave plenty of room, so you can fully release the clutch pedal to get as much heat dissipation off the friction? Can't blame the car when only a few owners experience chatter? No offence.

Krnlpnc, how's about I snow you with an "odd vibration" explanation rather than brushing it off by saying its, "normal?"
You have "harmonics" spinning. Think of the clothes drying from the spin cycle. Can you remember how the whole machine sakes when the spin starts, and the vibration when the spin is over and coming down in rpm? With a heavy steel flywheel, the vibration is buffeted. Using an aluminum flywheel, that vibration overrides the harmonics, because the aluminum is so light. Sound logical?
 

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