What do you run?

[mmvette80]

I was messing around with the car today. My car is a pig. My brothers 5.0 would kill my car. I want to run a 13 or better in the 1/4 mile. Does anybody's car (C3) run that fast? If so how much HP do you have and at what RPM range is most of your power.

 

[Don&Kelly]

I can't answer you yet .. but our '81 ran like a pig too & we've just put a rebuilt engine & changed the 3 speed auto to a 700R4 auto - we're still working out the bugs & will be tuning the"tuned port injectors" this week, but even with them being set wrong, it has twice as much get up & go as the old 190 HP engine.


Good luck, it's alot of work ...

 

[silver 80]

I can't say yet either, I'm running the ZZ4 and true duals. Kinda stuck in my garage due to melting snow (MUD) planning on putting in 700 R4 or 4L60 next winter.

 

[jon81]

Something like this will get you there:

Carter 625 carb, K & N filter, Edelbrock Performer EPS manifold, Davis custom curved HEI ignition, Accel 8.8mm wires, Dart Iron Eagle heads with 180cc runners and 72cc chambers, Manley RaceFlo valves, Comp Cams High Energy 268 cam with magnum roller rockers, Comp Cams double roller timing gear, Streetdampr, Hedman ceramic coated 1 5/8" headers and Mid America true dual exhaust - no cat - Flowmaster Delta 50's, Milodon 7 qt pan and high flow oil pump, Dewitts aluminum radiator, Dewitts dual 11" SPAL fan kit, Stewart stage 2 aluminum water pump, March billet pulleys on crank-water pump-alternator-A/C, TCI Saturday Night Special 2000rpm stall torque converter, Van Steel rebuilt trailing arms & bearings, Spicer solid U joints, Bilsteins on all 4 corners, Hawk HPS brake pads on all 4 corners, ATE Super Blue brake fluid, VBP urethane front end rebuild kit, VBP 1 1/8" front sway bar & urethane bushings, VBP Grand Touring front springs, VBP urethane trailing arm bushings & stainless shims, VBP urethane rear crossmember bushings, VBP urethane differential bushing, VBP urethane rear spring cushions, VBP urethane spring bolt kit, VBP 3/4" rear sway bar & urethane bushings, VBP Smart Struts, 255/60/15 BFG T/A's.

I'm running about 375hp and 425 ft/lbs torque out of a 350. With the TCI converter and reworked suspension it puts the power to the ground.

 

[mmvette80]

john81- Are you still running the original bottom end? If I get the heads, cam and headers I should have the same output? Have you had your car clocked?

 

[jon81]

Stock bottom end with 30K miles. Haven't had a chance to get it to the strip yet as I just finished putting the motor together.

 

[mmvette80]

What will the compression ratio be with the new heads?
My suspension is mostly the same as yours.
I have a 2200 stall converter with the 700R4 and 3.08 rear.
Do you have the stock rear?

 

[jon81]

Stock rear is 2.82 on the 81 and that's what I've got.

With the 72cc heads and .28 head gasket you end up with about 8.80cr which is fine with iron heads. Going to the 66cc Iron Eagle heads will get you into danger (detonation) territory with compression.

Also if you're running a converter rated to stall at 2200 with 190hp you will stall much lower if you increase the hp a bunch. As you add hp the stall number will decrease and many times you can end up with a stall that is lower than factory.

 

[gooney0]

Ballpark?

I don't know what mine runs yet. I was looking a another guy's website would had much the same thing and he did a 13.6 the first time, and has improved a little since.

Here is what he/we have.

1974 coupe (I have a 72)
ZZ4 350 (rated at 355hp 460 ft./lbs)
HEI distributor (i still have points)
2 1/2" True dual exaust w/ headers no cats (i have stock manifolds)
Holly 750cfm carb (i have 600cfm)
M21 "close ratio" 4 speed
P24560R15 tires

Naturally I don't know how many seconds the headers and distributor are worth. I'm told the headers are a big deal esspecially when dealing with higher horsepower engines.

GM recomends a 600-750cfm carb.

I am very pleased with this setup. The cars starts everytime, and the driveability is very good. (that is often a problem with high HP engines)

My complains are minor but they are...

The engine doesn't run very smooth in very humid weather. It surges alot. (otherwise it is fine)

Slight "roughness" after 4,000 RPM sometimes. This could easily be due to the 1972 distributor. GM supplies an HEI with the motor, but it won't work with the cable driven tach. Also headers may improve that also.

As for 1/4 mile times.. The 400+ ft/lbs. 4 speed combo makes launching more difficult. But then again too much power is what we call a "GOOD" problem!

One last thing. I bought the GM crate motor so I could avoid this whole issue. They say its 355hp so that saves me a lot of guess work and spares me from being disspointed. I'm probably not getting the whole 355hp since I didn't go with the headers or distributor but thats ok with me.


-Gooney0