Whats involved?

[billybob]

I'll add some background info, in one of my other posts I had posted a few images of my engine (rust and all) and after a hurtful comment from vigman "Based on how rusty things look" :t

Comment

I decided to do something about it! I'm doing an in car teardown of the engine and having certain parts replaced where required or refinished where part condition allows for it.

So there I was minding my own business when the exhaust manifolds decided they were going to have to leave. To make room for the hooker headers.

After a recommendation from Tom73, Jack, ccflorida and others

Stewart Pumps

So of all things the water pump/fan and fan clutch said see ya.

Next eyeing how nasty looking the intake manifold was, it yelled please ;help. But alas to help it out off comes the distributor.

With a nice open view of the intake manifold it was time to sweet talk it into coming off with the use of a 16oz hammer and a number 2 flathead screw driver to break the seal. :bang
The intake manifold is in good shape so it will go get ceramic coated.

And here is the exposed interior

Not really wanting to have to remove the heads, I don't think I have much choice left at this point, but seeing the rust on the interior worries me. So I guess they will have to come off as well.
:cry

But having gotten this far, I noticed something else I didn't like the looks of which you can sort of see in the above picture, but is shown more clearly below

Are those cams on the rise? on the drivers side there are 2 noticeably lifted, and the passengers side there are 3.

The rods are in good shape, but some are incredibly loose.

How should I go about fixing this new issue?

And when/if I take the heads off are there any issues I should be aware of? Any gotchas? And can they be ceramic coated as well?

Bill

 

[Hijinx]

OK, Billybob, I just did this last Christmas and I'm into my header install and fuel system referb, so I feel like I can give you some good advice.

First, YIKES!!!, I thought mine looked bad until I saw your pic's. Go ahead and pull the heads and get a good shop to vat them and do a valve job. Replace what needs replacing. Leave the lifters in place and mark each push rod to make sure it goes back in the same spot. The valve lash is easy to adjust later on.

Dump the intake. Its heavy and huffs. Get an Edelbrock Performer EGR to replace it. It will fit under your stock hood with the original carb. That and the headers will definately freshen everything up.

CLEAN, clean, and clean some more. Make sure you do not get anything in the valley (Put lots of shop rags in there and in the piston bores. Get a good thread cleaning set from Summit and clean every bolt hole. Make sure that you also get some ARP thread sealant to put the heads back on with .

Lastly, if its an L48, just pull the block and get the bottom end done now as well. You will have everything off of it except the trans. If you have any plans to freshen the bottom end, bite the bullet and do it now. While your at it clean and paint the engine compartment. OK, I'll shut up now.

 

[Eric]

Well Billybob, those pictures are disgusting so I think you're doing the right thing.

However, those pictures are a bit large. Would you mind reducing the size a tad? We try to keep the forums running as quickly and efficiently as possible so that our members who have to rely on slow dialup internet connections, can cruise through the forums as painlessly as possible. If you have any questions or need some assistance resizing, please let us know. Thanks!

 

[billybob]

Hijinx,

I was tryin to avoid having to pull the heads, but it doesnt look like I will be able to avoid it any longer.

But questions, pardon my ignorance, what is VAT?

The valve job is definately in the cars future especially with all the play in the push rods and the rising cams.

What if I decide to replace the heads completely what would I buy as bolt on replacements? Not a pysical performance upgrade.

I'm taking my time as I'm attempting to do this myself, with as little out sourcing as possible. (I already have a 454 getting blueprinted and $$$'s are a bit of a concern to the wife)

Engines dont scare me in the way of swapping and changing / renewing parts. Aside from actually breaking something there isnt much that time and knowledge cant solve.

71shark,

Sorry about the size, I thought they were pretty small, but adding them all up at one time raised the bar a little to high. They have since been cut down by another 50%. If they are still too large let me know.


Bill

 

[Hijinx]

Bill,
A machine shop will vat any parts you give them to get them clean. Basically, they boil the grime and rust off and machine the rest.

If you are not looking for a performance upgrade, just have the stock heads rebuilt. If you want to get better flow, and plan to replace the intake, you can get a set of Vortec heads from Scoggin-Dickey for under $500 ready to bolt on. However, these heads require a different intake bolt pattern. If you plan to swap the intake (and I would suggest that you should) and want some better flow from the heads on the cheap, get the Vortec heads and an Edelbrock intake with the right bolt pattern. These heads are getting a lot of press in most automotive publications. They flow better than stock Bow Tie heads!

Those heads, with your headers (they should bolt up fine, but you should check) and the Edelbrock intake and your talking about some good horsepower increases.

 

[Tim73454]

Billybob, Where is the 454 going? I assume not in the vette if you are cleaning the one that is in it?

I pulled mine and it is on a stand in my garage but I haven't had the time or money to clean or freshen it up. While doing the swap I had engine bay cleaned and painted. Well worth the money while the engine was out.


Tim73454

 

[Eric]

Thanks Billybob!

- Eric

 

[billybob]

Hijinx,

Thanks for the definition on the VAT, I was lost

Replacing the intake does sound like a reasonable mod, I strained my back a bit when I pulled it out, damn thing is heavy. And would love to offload a bit of the pig iron.

The heads, I dont think I'm ready for a do it yourself head swap I may be crazy :crazy , but I'm not insane . It could be an option later on once I get it all cleaned an happy again.

Tim73454,

I was actually toying with the idea of dropping in the 454, but lack of information of what else I would have to upgrade has put this idea off in the back of my mind. I'll wait till the block is back from blue printing, If i can gather enough information by the time I get it back then I'll drop it in if not then it goes in the other project. (65 rustang.)

Regardless the 350 needs a good cleaning, and since its up on blocks it seemed a good a time as any.

71Shark,

I aim to please, I often forget of those individuals with low BW.


Another sideline question, the way the block is currently sitting.. looking at the above pictures, how much would you guess it weighs?

I ask because with the intake off I have no cherry picker hooks, and the cramped quaters the vettes stored in doesnt allow for a side pickup ( 3 feet per side ), would have to remove the hood and grab from the front (8 feet in front).

Bill

 

[Hijinx]

A bare block (nothing in it) is plenty heavy. With pistons, rods and crank it weighs a bunch. You will have to use a cherry picker to get it out.

On the heads, just get them freshened up and get you a Edelbrock Performer from Summit. Cheap and much better than the stock POS.

 

[sscam69]

The heads, I dont think I'm ready for a do it yourself head swap I may be crazy , but I'm not insane . It could be an option later on once I get it all cleaned an happy again.

Its not all that bad, I removed my heads and put in a new cam for the first time. Wasn't all that bad. I had the manual for my vette and a " How to rebuild Chevy Engines" book my fiance gave me for Christmas. Both give the the bolt torque pattern and the torque specs for the 3 different stages in which they need to be torqued. In other words to torque down intially at 30ftlbs then 50ftlbs finally 70 ftlbs in a given pattern. Besides you have people here at the that will help you out with any questions you might have

If you are going to send out the heads, after doing my heads, I would suggest that you remove all the bolts and chase all the threads in the heads prior to sending them in. This will loosen up some of that rust and grime before and will help with the cleaning the heads in the vat. I purchased a thread chase kit for fine and coarse threads from Jegs for $13.99 each. If you need the part number just let me know. By the looks of it your gonna need them:L. Just tell your wife its an investment, it works trust me

After my previous experiences with machine shops I would try and prep the heads as much as possible and leave them the least amount of work. Because the other guy might only be worried about when he leaves work and could give a hoot about your heads.

Sounds likea fun winter project!!

Frank

 

[sscam69]

Oh and by a case of degreaser:L:Lj/k

 

[billybob]

Hijinx,

Where would I hook up 2?? to lift it out seeing that I have alot of the upper block already removed.

sscam69,

I am in the process of re tappin all the bolt holes, and have decided to buy entire engine bolt sets to replace current ones.

As for the heads they will have to come out, the choice is clear, just tryin to figure out how I'm going to go about doing this with the least amount of re-assembly effort. As there is much to do by next spring.

Bill

 

[Hijinx]

Bill,
Any 9/16 bolt hole should work. That and a couple of chains should give you plenty to hoist on.

 

[billybob]

Hijinx,

I'll see if its possible to rig anything up, Having not planned to pull the engine I didnt account for alot of side access room. The only option is the front for the pick. I have to swap off the hood with the new one anyway so it'll have to come off.

God my wife is going to kill me I can hear her now, yet another car in boxes :L

Bill

 

[Hijinx]

Bill,
Aaaahh, the sound of wives griping in the morning. Wait, that's the radio, I always tune my wife out. Never mind.

 

[vette-dude]

Use the intake bolt holes on front right and rear left of head for your pulling chain. 3/8 x 16 NC about 2 " long with a washer to hold the chain from slipping off the head of the bolt should do it. If you have a garage or car port use an overhead rafter re-inforced with two or three 2 x 4's nailed together and set it on the rafter beam over the car with the fat side (4" SIDE facing up & down). Then re-inforce the ends of the rafter and two by four set up with two 4 x 4 posts that fit from the rafter to the floor. Throw a chain around the rafters and get a come along (2 ton type) and hook it to the chain on the motor. Make sure all attaching points are disconnected and lift engine. Roll car out from under the motor after you have got it out. This is usaully a two man operation but it can be done by yourself. You may want to brace the uprights from rocking with some additional lumber but usually the weight of the motor locks it from moving. Then there is always the trusty tree motor pulling technique. As suggested before, get a motors manual and read it a couple of times before you start. You can also rent a cherry picker or engine hoist at any rental store. I think they are outrageously expensive to rent so I just bought one at Northern Hydraulics (about $179) or so. I found out years ago it is cheaper to buy the tools once and be able to use them when you want at your convenience then to rent or borrow them from someone else. Well good luck!!

:cool :cool :cool

 

[Jack]

how's $1600 USD for a new one sound?

Bill/billybob:
I’m gonna backup here & regroup. Maybe you have original L48/L82 motor ... maybe not ... if so it may be worth keeping for the future. Understand you have a BB in process but completion date is distant ... assume you may swap BB into vette when /if you get a better grasp on what’s needed. It appears you may be about to attempt a rebuild of current L48 ... and may be about to do it in a piecemeal manner.

Lemme make a suggestion. Don’t rebuild the L48/L82 right now. Instead, purchase a GM Goodwrench replacement 350 motor ... BRAND NEW for under $1600 USD.

P/N 10067353 GM Goodwrench 5.7 Liter/350 CI V-8 1973-85
Covered by the 36 months or 50,000 mile
GM Goodwrench Engine Warranty.
The Goodwrench replacement engine is an ideal power plant for a performance enthusiast working on a budget. The 350ci Goodwrench small-block is assembled with all new components. It has an 8.5:1 compression ratio, four-bolt main bearing caps, a cast nodular iron crankshaft, and a hydraulic camshaft. The cylinder heads have 1.94" intake valves and 1.50" exhaust valves. The Goodwrench engine is a complete assembly, LESS intake and exhaust manifolds, torsional damper, water pump, pulleys, distributor, spark plugs, flywheel, clutch, and components. INCLUDES: Timing cover, oil pan, and valve covers. Makes about 240-250HP @ crankshaft.

Sallee Chevy has them for under $1600 USD ... less elsewhere?
http://sallee-chevrolet.com/ChevySmallBlockV8s/gen350.html

Clean & use your distributor (you can use it on any sbc or BBC), clean & use your intake & exhaust manifolds (those high $ hookers won’t fit any future BB), clean & use your carb, buy a fresh OE type fuel pump, buy a fresh OE type water pump, clean & use your damper if it's good ... replace w/ OE type if not.

Doing this would be fairly simple ... bolt on an intake & exhaust, plug in a distributor, water pump, fuel pump, carb, damper and your brackets. I believe it'd be cheaper than trying to rebuild, much easier, and probably yield as good or better results; you’ll end up with a very nice warranty and a 4-bolt main motor that’d be solid basis for a future project/sale. BTW, your nice aluminum valve covers are a direct-fit on this Goodwrench motor ... same goes for your flexplate.

Buy a performance water pump & intake (but neither will fit any BB) ... OR ... Save most of your motor dress-up, play-pretty dollars for a future BB swap. Might this approach find more favor with the wife?
JACK:gap

 

[billybob]

Hijinx,

:L I want my money back from the universal remote purchase it doesnt work on my model of wife. Not very universal if you ask me... I press mute and pause but still nothing (duck and cover)

vette-dude,

Thanks for the added info on where to hook up, I do have a cherry picker, we appear to have gone to the same school

101 - buy it that way you'll always have it class

A few years ago prior to the vette (the rustang project) I installed an iron cross beam in the garage which i used to pull the original motor, hooked on, block and tackle up... roll out of the way. Only problem is with snow and oh ya vette motor in parts I wont be able to move it to use this rig.

I bought the cherry picker to move motor etc around easily after 3 of us tried to lift the tranny into a truck and damn near killed ourselves.

Jack,

I'll check em out, as I wasnt going for any major performance increases with the original motor, just tryin to put it into a happy state.

But i'm also not really into canibalizing the motor for parts so it would have to be all new parts to slap on the potential motor.

And then again there is the wife factor:
2 engines 2 car projects = ok
3 engines 2 car projects = not ok

Her words made rated "G" for the viewing masses

As for the 454 parts compatability, these things I know, the BB is getting all new bits, basically a turn key motor when its restored as it was supposed to be a drop in.

Thanks guys your input is appreciated. Keep it coming

Bill