What's it Worth? 68 Drop Top, #'s Match!

[Edlanta]

I'm trying to put an approximate value on a numbers matching 68' drop top with a 327 and 4sp trans. The car started out red on red but was repainted some time ago and is now blue with silver interior. The car has a 350 crate engine in it but comes with the original (40K miles) 327. Interior is fair with normal wear but no rips or tears. The exterior is also fair with no signs of body damage or obvious repair. It has an older blue paint job that looks good from 10 feet. The top on the car is new. The car runs and drives good but has been sitting for over a year. Is there anything in particular I should look for when purchasing a 68??? How about body work? What are the tell tale signs of a poor glass repair?
Thanks!
Edlanta....

 

[duke94]

 

[6880 Mike]

...Is there anything in particular I should look for when purchasing a 68???...

There's a ton of one-year-only stuff on a '68, so you want to ensure the car is as complete as possible and has the majority of all that one-year stuff which can be hard to find and pricey if you need to replace it. The C3 Buyer's Guide will be a big help.

My advice is to include the original engine in the purchase price.

What is the seller asking?

 

[Edlanta]

According to the price guide supplied by Duke the car should be worth in the 18-20K range. The asking price on this car is 15K and comes with the original 327, an engine stand & lift and a box of misc. parts that I have not seen. Are there any areas on the car I should pay closer attention to for typical mechanical or body issue's??? Seems like a good deal but I don't want to get burnedad
Thanks again....
ED

 

[Striker 85]

C3 Values

It sounds like a good deal. I just picked up a numbers matching 350/300hp 69 convert. Needs some paint and minor interior work for 19K. I also was a little worried about what I was getting. Didnt see it until I put it on the transport to make the 8-hour drive home. I was a little disappointed at first, however once I started digging around and went for a drive, I almost feel I was the one who ripped the guy off. Moral of the story is, if it is what you want, get it. It will not be perfect, and my catalogs are full of yellow highliter for things I want to get, however any car is what you make of it. Also you will not lose money on a 68. CE Mag showed an 11% increase in C3 value last year, and that will only keep going up. If you want a C3, get it now, put some money in it over the years, and enjoy the drive

 

[Edlanta]

Great advice striker! I think its a good buy as well. Have to check the numbers on the 327. It would be great if it was the 350 horse model! Will take another look at the car this weekend and hopefully bring her home.....
I'm still open to any other advice or comments about the 68 vette's so feel free to put in your 2 cents
ED.

 

[red70vette]

Rust, Rust, RUST.... That is the biggest enemy of Corvettes.

Check the rear kickups. This is the area in front of the rear wheels where the frame kicks up and over the rear wheels.

Check the birdcage. That is the area that surrounds the windshield goes down into the kickpanels inder the doorsills and up the other side. Severe rust here is terminal. Remove the kickpanels and look behind them for rust. Remove the interior trim around the windshield and look for rust. All the other things that you mentioned and looked at are cosmetic and can be fixed. Rust can be terminal.

Check the frame bring a hammer and a screwdriver and tap the frame in several areas especially the ones mentioned. If they don't sound good and solid look closer.

Search here and the Corvette Forum for horror stories on rust and you will believe that fiberglass cars do RUST.

 

[jims427400]

Edlanta,
I just baught my 68 a few weeks ago, this year definately is harder to buy parts for. But w/ that said..we all love a challenge.
Good luck..
Jim

 

[Edlanta]

Thanks Red70Vette & Jims427400 for responding. I did not get to see the vette this past weekend but will this coming weekend. The advice about where to look for rust will be very helpful! I hope the frame is solid given the price and the extra's that supposedly come with the car. I would like to thank all for responding. I will reply to this thread to let you know what happens. I'm sure this will not be the last time I ask for help????
Thanks Again!
Edlanta....

 

[bossvette]

I bought one last August for $11,900 it needs some minor work but is drivable. It only had a hard top and I have been amassing the parts needed for the soft top for about another $1000.
As others have said there are some parts that are 68 only, but unless you plan on a NCRS restoration newer parts can be used, they may not be"Correct" but they will do the job.
I have no Idea what year my recently aquired soft top frame is from but it will work and I will use the later model latches and pins on it.

 

[68Roadster]

Personally I like the uniqueness of having the first year model C3.....true on the one off parts but not something that can't be overcome...eventually...

Hope it works out for ya.....like having more '68 owners here......and we can help!

 

[jims427400]

I agree w/ the first and the last of a series..