wheel alignment for 1964 corvette

[mdgreve]

i'm looking for the front and rear alignment spec for a 1964 corvette. thnaks

 

[JohnZ]

Rear camber = zero to 1/2-degree negative.
Rear toe = 1/16" total toe-in, split evenly across the thrust centerline (1/32" per side).

Front camber = zero degrees.
Front caster = 1 to 1-1/2 degrees positive (manual steering), 2 to 2-1/2 degrees positive (power steering).
Front toe = zero to 1/16" total toe-in.

The above assumes you're running radial tires, which require far less toe-in than the original bias-ply tires. If you have bias-ply tires, front toe is 3/16" - 5/16" total, no change for rear toe.

Correct rear toe-in is critical to proper handling behavior, especially having it evenly split between both sides; make sure the alignment shop takes the time to do rear toe correctly (which is time-consuming, especially if the bushing bolts are rusty) - "close enough" isn't good enough. In the Detroit area, a proper 4-wheel alignment on a C2/C3 Corvette runs about $150, most of which is labor to do rear toe correctly.

 

[magicv8]

If you are putting radials on the car and you don't want it to "hunt" or "bump steer" down the road, tell the alignment shop to use the 1976 specs. 76s came with radials on the "same" chassis as a C2.

 

[ChuckG]

JohnZ is 100% correct about using the correct front "toe in" if you're running bias ply tires. The BIGGEST problem people have when switching from radials to repro bias plys is that they "wander" or track. You're constantly turning the steering wheel. It's because the radial toe in is much less than the bias toe in setting.

I have both radials and bias ply tires that I use on my 63 and 69. I have the toe in set to the bias ply specs. Makes no difference with the radials in the short run for the amount I drive these cars. Makes a WORLD of difference in the driveability of the car on bias plys. Chuck