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Wheel Lug Nut Bolts Broke Off....

Ludigdrums

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2003
Messages
382
Location
Long Island, NY
Corvette
1981 White Coupe
So, I was driving for about 30 min on the Belt Parkway last night (in NY) and it all of a sudden felt like I was getting a flat tire. I pulled over and checked my tires, all were fine. I drove 2 mph on the shoulder and still felt it. A second check of the tires brought me to the left rear tire which was held on by ONLY 1 LUG NUT!!! Man wa I lucky that the wheel didn't fall off. So, 3 of the studs broke completely off, 1 stud had a nut on it and the other remaining stud was bare. I actually found one of the nuts attached to the stud in the road. That was 9:30pm, and after all was said and done, it was 4am and I was home less a few hundred bucks.

So, today I started to tackle getting new studs and taking out the old remnance of studs. I cannot seem to get them out! All I need to do is remove the dust sheild but can't get the bolt at the top center that the parking brake shoes attach to off. How do you get the dust sheild off?! This is preventing me from taking out the studs, which might be longer than stock because they are custom wheels with spacers.

Thanks, and it's good to still be alive!

- Jeremy
 
You need to remove the rear hub to change the studs.
 
Rear Hub? What exactly is that and how is it done. I can't find enough good info in my manuals regarding this?
Thanks!

- Jeremy
 
1979Toy, thanks, but I just realized what you're talking about the applies to only the fronts. With the rears, the parking brake is like a drum brake system and so the rear rotor comes off exposing the shoes for the parking brake. Anyhow, the studs I was talking about are actually attached to the spindle. None of my books explain how to take the spindle out very well. I have a feeling that it's a really big jo. I hope someone can give me more info on this. What a nightmare!

Thanks again...

- Jeremy
 
The custom wheels with spacers are probably the cause of all your problems. I'd lose them.
 
A few years back I was driving along at approx. 65-75 MPH when I lost my front left wheel. It started shaking really badly and then bam, only 3 wheels!

Luckily, there were few people around. I somehow managed to bring the vette to a stop in the median. Scary as hell! The fender broke off and the rotor was shot. Everything else was fine.

My wheel ended up in oncoming traffic and someone in a pickup grabbed it (as it nearly killed a few people) and drove it back to me. I would have hated to lose my rally wheel.

From the evidence I could tell I had been driving with only 2 lug nuts on the studs. Now I check them religiously. It doesn't have as much to do with spacers, aftermarket wheels, ro anything else. These cars are old, you just have to carefully go over them before heading out, especially at high speeds. :Steer

Sly
 
I lost mt right rear wheel going 70 on the interstate. I saw the wheel pass me up on the shoulder as my car squatted down hard. I just gave it the gas and moved to the shoulder. I had some damage to a shock mount, which I ended up replacing. (Oh yeah, the 5 studs too!)
 
69_Dream said:
......... These cars are old, you just have to carefully go over them before heading out, especially at high speeds. Sly /QUOTE]


So ture ... Best advice posted to date - thanks :Steer
 
If the lugnuts are tightened to the correct torque and not overtightened they should last the life of the car. It's not the first time I've heard of cars using spacers breaking lugs or losing wheels. It does put added stress on the lugbolts. Check your lugnuts frequently.
 
It might have been the spacers if you have those? Problem now is replacing the studs. THe studs are pressed into the rear spindle flange and the studs have a straight knurl on them to keep them from spinning. You may be able to hammer them out but installing will be tricky. There just isn't room between the spindle flange and the caliper bracket. If you can get them out andthen figure a way to slid a new one place you might be able to draw the stud into the flange with a lug nut. There might be a tool made for this too?
If I was doing the repair, I would remove the rear spindle and press new ones in. This requires disassembling the rear bearings,so if you don't have the tools or knowledge you're in a bigger problem area. I can rebuild the rear bearings and have pressed studs in/out before-some are in really tight and require a lot of force to remove.
Good luck,think it over before diving in or having a local garage do the work.
 
Two things cause broken lug studs - wheel spacers, and dimwits in tire stores that use impact wrenches on the lug nuts. You have an expensive job ahead of you, and I'd have both sides done - if one broke, the other side will too.
:(
 
You should be able to pop them out with a brass punch without removing anything but the tire, look close at the assembly, some where you should be able to turn the spindle to a spot that the stud can be punched thru the back side, and put back in. The only thing that would make this not possible, would be longer studs, but I still find it hard to imagine that someone removed the spindle just to put longer wheel studs in. It would be alot of work! I replaced one of mine on an 80, put the new one in, drawed it up with an old lugnut and some washers

Good luck
Ron
 
Thanks for all of your replies and even more crazy stories. It makes me feel somewhat better that I'm not the onlny one with wheels almost falling off.

Enigma: good links (they will definately help, and cool tool although I think it's meant for trucks and people with a lot of $$$, heheh.

What exactly is the correct torque for custom wheels and such?! They do have a spacer, but the lug nuts tapered edge goes into the rim at least 3/8".

The only thing I found was a recessed point in the dust shield at about 6 or 7 o'clock position. I was able to almost get em out there but it still wasn't enough. So, my mechanic said to cut a hole just big enough in the dustshield to allow me to get the studs in and out of. So, as of yet, that's my best solution to al least get the studs in and out.

Finally, here is a link to another post I started with a picture of the wheel. Anyone know anything about it?!

http://corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35814

Thanks as always!

- Jeremy
 
The torque setup for Steel and Aluminum wheels is different.

As a rule of thumb I use 80 FT-LBS of torque on my original aluminum wheels using a torque wrench.

The worst sound I hear in a tire shop is that air powered impact wrench.:( :(

Some lug nuts actually have the torque stamped on them.

Enigma
 
Just some added info. The hole you need to cut in the dust shield can be repaired if you drill it out to the size of one of those chrome hole caps. You can get these at most hardware stores. Then when installing the studs get a black pipe nipple that fits over the stud but is short enough to leave at least three exposed threads when the stud is put into the hub hole. Then using an old wheel nut and washer set up, screw the wheel nut onto the stud to pull the stud into the hub. This is easier then trying to hammer it in place. When you pop the chrome cap into the dust shield put a little clear silicone on it first. This will help hold it and seal it at the same time.

Randy:w
 
I use neverseize / antiseize on my lug studs ... never an impact (except on racecars) ... I check my lugs routinely ... the neversieze helps prevent siezing, stretching, crossthreading & false torque readings. Even if I chose not to routinely use neverseize, I'd surely use it when pulling a new stud into a flange.

BTW ... all fasteners (lug studs too) are not equal. Most of those that are pre-packed/blister-packed are of asian manufacture ... don't depend on em for long.
JACK:gap
 
Hi: I don't know about the wheel spacer part of wheel studs failing. I ran a set of spacers along with my Cragar S/S mags (the only way those wheels will fit on a vette is with wheel spacers) for approx 20 years without a problem. The only thing that I can think of is that: 1) the wrong spacers were used: and 2) the wrong lug nuts were used. 3) Improper torque of the lugs with spacers. If you use spacers, make sure that you use the correct lenght lug nuts to allow for the thickness of the spacer. Not having enough turns on the stud will put undue strain on 'em. I'm also not too sure on the rusty stud part; but I do know that improper torque of the lug nuts will increase the risk of stud failure, not to mention contributing to rotor warpage. Whatever the case may be; losing a wheel when driving can not only be dangerous, it can also ruin your whole day.

Dave
 
Thanks for all your replies, they are all great.

So, I'm trying to locate the parts I need now and am having a hard time. I actually found another one of my lug nuts attached to the broken stud on the highway tonight (woo hoo!!!). Anyhow, the studs I need are 2.25 long and 7/16 x 20 thread. Funny thing is that the lug nuts said they were 1/2 x 20 but they're not. I also need to find these UniLug washer things. Got some Moroso lug studs but the were too long, and the seat looked too big. Plus, they said that they were not to be used with spacers :-(. Don't know where to go...any ideas?! I don't want to replace the wheels! Grrr...

Thanks...

- Jeremy
 
Ludigdrums said:
Thanks for all your replies, they are all great.

So, I'm trying to locate the parts I need now and am having a hard time. I actually found another one of my lug nuts attached to the broken stud on the highway tonight (woo hoo!!!). Anyhow, the studs I need are 2.25 long and 7/16 x 20 thread. Funny thing is that the lug nuts said they were 1/2 x 20 but they're not. I also need to find these UniLug washer things. Got some Moroso lug studs but the were too long, and the seat looked too big. Plus, they said that they were not to be used with spacers :-(. Don't know where to go...any ideas?! I don't want to replace the wheels! Grrr...

Thanks...

- Jeremy

Jeremy: What type of rims are they? & are the spacer kits used with your rims made by the same manufacture (Company)? Two things that you can do: One is to contact the manufacture that makes your rims (or the manufacture that makes the spacer kit) & tell 'em what happened. Alot of times they'll listen to those types of experiences & will be willing to help you out. If that doesn't work: Go To plan "B": If there's a NAPA in your area, chances are they'll have what you need. Good luck. Hate to see your vette get messed up further just because of rims. That's why I finally spent some bucks & had custom rims made for mine. Alot of the aftermarket rims will not fit C-3 vettes properly, cause of those Darn callipers! Take care & let me know what you find out & how you made out.


Dave:Steer
 

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