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when does clutch engagement begin

madvette74

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Joined
Jul 29, 2003
Messages
161
Location
boston
I tried looking for some info, but cant quite find what I am looking to hear..
I am pretty sure I am adjusting my clutch wrong, I adjust it so It starts to engage about an 1-1/2 - 2" inches from the floor.. just curious to know how far does your pedal come up, from fully depressed to where you start to feel the slightess bit of engaugement of the clutch... it seems when I have it engauge any further there is more pedal movement to have the clutch fully engauged.. sounds confusing..
 
Adjust it for 1 1/2 inches of free play at the top of the pedal, that's when you put your foot on the pedal. If it's working properly it will release somewhere between there and the floor.
 
lucky76 said:
Adjust it for 1 1/2 inches of free play at the top of the pedal, that's when you put your foot on the pedal. If it's working properly it will release somewhere between there and the floor.

Exactly! Only adjust for pedal free play at the top of travel, not for where it begins to engage as it's coming up off the floor. If you have excessive free play the clutch won't disengage completely, and if you don't have enough free play you'll fry the throwout bearing.
:beer
 
I just went out there and checked my clutch adjustment, I have about 2-1/2 - 3 inches of freeplay, and the clutch engauges about an inch and a half from the floor, so if I were to remove 1 inch of freepaly that would then in return allow my clutch to engauge further from the floor, correct? also, if I readjust my clutch, I believe there will be more travel in the pedal to fully engauge my clutch, in other words when I mean more travel, I am talking about from the time it begins to grab to the time it's fully engauged.. because I did try to afdjust my clutch as you guys say, and my clutch seems to be very sensitve in a sense where I really have to engauge it quickly from a stop or I can start to smell some clutch smoke...
 
MAdvette, I believe if you eliminate some of your free play you will be engaging even sooner off the floor and quite possibly put the throwout bearing on the fingers. Must be something elso going on there, possibly wrong block to pivot ball clearance.
 
i believe the real issue here is that the proper way to adjust the clutch pedel travel is from the top as previously described. in the event there are problems once the adjustment is made to produce approx 1 1/2" of "free play" at the top. (it's from when you first place your foot on the clutch pedal until you feel the pressure of the throwout bearing and clutch springs, ie: the necessary clearance of the clutch fork off the bearing to allow it to completely disengage), there are other problems with the whole setup. at that point, it's not your clutch adjustment.

steve
 
it's a ceterforce dual friction plate and disc.. I did adjust it as you guys say, I went as far as I could, on the clutch pedal rod.. I am at the end of the rod and have about 2 inches of freeplay, and after driving the car a bit, it does feel much better, I am acually happy how good this engauges.. I think the directions say's to replace the pivot ball, if you are using a aftermarket bellhousing.. I am not.. I have 1550 miles on the clutch
 
madvette74 said:
it's a ceterforce dual friction plate and disc.. I did adjust it as you guys say, I went as far as I could, on the clutch pedal rod.. I am at the end of the rod and have about 2 inches of freeplay, and after driving the car a bit, it does feel much better, I am acually happy how good this engauges.. I think the directions say's to replace the pivot ball, if you are using a aftermarket bellhousing.. I am not.. I have 1550 miles on the clutch

That's a little excessive freeplay. That doesn't necessarily apply to JUST aftermarket. You need a different pivot ball.
 
Too much freeplay will not hurt the throw out bearing. With too much free play the question becomes, is your clutch completely disengaging? With the engine at idle and trans in neutral, push the clutch in. Wait about 3 seconds and slowly try to put the trans into reverse. If it grinds, your clutch is not disengaging and needs more free play. If it goes right into reverse then it is disengaging completely.
I personally think it should disengage before it is completely on the floor so I suggest trying this again with the pedal 1" off the floor. If it goes into reverse without grinding and you like the way it feels, you should be OK. Remember, what you need is free travel at the top so the throw out brg comes off the clutch fingers, and complete disengagement at the bottom to save wear on disc, synchronisers, and gears.
Just my$.02 Hope it helps.

Mike
 
magoo..

I tried what you mentioned there is no problem with in going into reverse.. I drove around yesteday for a bit, and this is the best this setup ever felt, nice and smooth.. geeze I wish I understood how to adjust this many clutches ago..
 
:cool Good stuff to know, especially as I'm currently trying to get mine installed. Although probably NOT your particular problem, I'v just learned the hard way that the clutch fork, ball stud, and bellhousing is corvette specific. If there's a chance you've picked up some f-body stuff, or regular car stuff, you're need to get rid of it. good luck, jim
 

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