Which Floor Jack?

[tlong]

What brand works for my '96? It looks like I have about 5 inches under there. Is there one that works the best for putting stands under it for a brake job?

The stand selection is imprtant as well. Hoping for some advice vs. trial and error. I usually have plenty of errors.

Tim

 

[WhalePirot]

For me, the answer is, 'which ever fits!' You know the proper jack points and have measured the space. Most boxes the jacks come in will specify the range of the jack, therein.

As my car is lowered, I usually have to drive up on small wood blocks for my current jack to fit. I have two, larger floor jacks and an assortment of stands. The Chinese crap is of limited lifespan, as their metalurgy lags the 'real' world. It will suffice, however, for most 'shade tree' mechanics. Heavy castings do not always mean it is stronger. Also, the release gearing on one Chinese jack of mine is so poorly made that it is always questionable if I can lower the car; this, at only a few years of home use..

My choice is to find some good old American made equipment, at garage sale or thrift stores. It assures me of the quality of the materials and any worn parts, which would be little more than valving on a jack, can be easily replaced. Quality tools make every job easier, with better result.

 

[XS650]

I use a ten+ year old Taiwanese no brand trolly jack rated at 4,000 lb. It handles the 1600 lb weight of one end of my car nicely.

Height is a problem, like Whale said. Consider planning on driving up on 2x4's instead of limiting yourself to ultra low profile jacks. His advice to get used quality equipment was also good, even though I have done well for over ten years on my $29.95 Taiwanese jack. The Chinese one before it lasted less than a year before an oddball non-replaceable seal failed.

My 2x4s slid on my sealed garage floor so I glued a bit of rubber to the bottom of them.

 

[Tuna]

Check out http://idavette.net/hib/C5diy/c5diy1.htm.

Hib recommends the Lincoln 2-ton jack (W39642) in his 'do it yourself' article. You can get a version of this jack at your local NAPA store also with NAPA branding. I bought one, I like. The low roll under height (3.75) inches is great for getting under any car and you don't need 3.5-4 ton capabilty to lift a car. My only complaint - it's a little pricy.

 

[WhalePirot]

it's a little pricy Yeah, well good tools are, but they last and help deliver a better result.

 

[Ken]

I use a 10-year old Sears 2-ton floorjack to lift mine. I just can't figure out how to fill the thing with oil, since I lost the manual that accompanied it originally.

 

[tlong]

Rear lifting idea

I am doing all four brakes and want to pick it all the way off all 4 wheels. The front is easy. On the rear... could I use heavy gauge angle iron under the shock supports all the way across like a beam and lift that? No twisted sister on the frame.Then put the stands right on the angle iron under the shocks. It seems to be the lowest point. It's the best I can figure out so far.

 

[JrdnsEdu]

Ken..my buddy works at a Sears.. Did you try them yet and ask if they have any info or if anyone remembers? If not, throw me the model info and I'll see if he can dig it up.

 

[Ken]

To raise the car off the ground and on four jackstands, you just have to place the jackstands where the regular jack would go, just ahead of the rear wheels; same as the front. You can do it one side at a time or you can lift it with something like the "Jack-A-Vette" (I made my own) to raise the rear both wheels at a time by placing the jack under the differential. I don't understand why people always have such a hard time figuring that out.

As for the Sears jack, I'll have to get back to you with the model number, I can't think of it right now. I did call Sears and they couldn't help me. Thanks for the offer Eric.

_ken

 

[WradDad]

Does anybody else raise the car from the side, rather than front/rear?

I saw a post on one of the Grand Sport web sites (forget which one right now) which demonstrated how to place the jack on the side of the car and raise the whole side. I've been doing it that way for a year now, with no ill affect. I place the jack under the sill, almost directly down from the side mirror. I can then place stands under the jacking points, and go do the same on the other side.

I use a small block of hardwood in the cup of my floor jack so the sill doesn't get marred. The guy that wrote the article used a hocky puck.

Barry

 

[Ken]

I've done it that way before, but usually I just lift it front and rear.

_ken

 

[c4cruiser]

I raise my car from the side and place the jack mid-way between the jacking points. I have a small $40 special floor jack that raises the entire side of the car at once. I place jack stands on that side and then go around and do the other side. You do need a level surface for doing it this way and always block the wheels.

Just be careful when raising the jack pad up to the body. Fuel lines on the right side and brake lines on the left are very close to the body seam where the pad will contact.

I can get my car about 18" off the ground in less than 10 minutes. I don't like to use the differential as a jacking point because it's cast aluminum and was never designed to take a load from the outside.

 

[Ken]

Thanks for reinforcing the point up about blocking the wheels when lifting your vehicle. One can never be too safe; I oughta know - I almost lost it once when letting it down. :eek

_ken

 

[WNH]

I bought a Hydraulic sizzors jack at Pep Boys.
It fits under any part of the car & works well- about $40.

 

[SR94]

I bought a heavy duty jack made by Arcan for $59 from the local Costco, specifically beacuse it's low-profile and fits very nicely under the Vette. The low-profile section is at least a foot long, so it gets good reach under the car as well. I'm sure thare are higher quality jacks, but for the price I'm very pleased.

 

[LittleRedFlatBack]

I use a 10-year old Sears 2-ton floorjack to lift mine. I just can't figure out how to fill the thing with oil, since I lost the manual that accompanied it originally.

Ken, if it's like my old Sear's floor jack there's a rubber plug on the top side of the hydraulic cylinder. It was removed with a flat screwdriver by prying up under the edge of the plug. I got almost 20 years of service out of mine before putting it to rest.

Dennis

 

[dcaatc]

What brand works for my '96? It looks like I have about 5 inches under there. Is there one that works the best for putting stands under it for a brake job?

The stand selection is imprtant as well. Hoping for some advice vs. trial and error. I usually have plenty of errors.

Tim

I use the Companion #950115 3-Ton Floor Jack Model #875501153
made by Sears/Roebuck (Everyone always foregets poor ROEBUCK), It came with two 3-Ton Companion #950118 Jack Stands Model #875501180. The price if I remember was less than a $100.00 during one of their many sales. I jack it from the jack spots on the side and place the jack stands under the A-Frames on the front and the axle frame in the rear. Yes I do use Collapsible Chocks.

THX---Dick Cox

 

[tlong]

Now I Know Jack

Sears Roebuck (is he still in there?) has a deal on a 2 ton jack, 2 stands, 2 chocks, a sit on creeper with tool tray, 4x3 rubber mat to crawl on, tire iron and jumper cables for $99. Craftsman is good stuff.

I can hardly wait to get it up (ha) and do the brake job. It started with rear pads and escalated into new Raybestos slotted and drilled rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads, Goodrich steel lines, Speed Bleeders and ATE fluid. Going 1st class usually costs only 50% more, and I get the best if I do the work myself.

The GM manual has an error stating front brakes were 12". All 96 were J55 13" front I believe. Also Raybestos rear rotors are directional where the stock are not.

Interesting.

 

[Mountaineer]

Ken,

What does the "Jack-A-Vette" adaptor look like and how did you make yours. I am in need of a trans fluid change and want to lift from the front and rear do to space issues in my garage.

Thanks.

Rob

 

[SR94]

Ken,

the "Jack-A-Vette" looks like a four-inch long piece of 4"x4" I beam. The upper flange is cut down to ~2" wide. It slides between the exhaust pipes and is positioned under the diff case. You lift the rear from that point.

http://www.corvettegadgetman.com/products3.html