A
AlcHEmiE
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I have the FX3 system on my vette, but it doesnt work at the moment. Rather than spending $200+ per shock, will shocks that fit corvettes w/o the FX3 system fit on mine? Thanks
-=Jeff=-
Well-known member
Yes, you just won't connect the electrical connectors..AlcHEmiE said:
but NON-FX3 shocks will bolt right in.
I have heard of a bunch of guys buys KYB's while their FX3 were off for repair
c4cruiser
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Do you know which shock or actuator is not working? You can retreive the codes and post them here to get some answers to what's not working. The FX3 system is really a good system and is well worth fixing. Bilstein will rebuild your shocks for half what a new one costs and they can even re-valve them to custom settings.
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c4cruiser said:
What he says!!!!
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AlcHEmiE
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It doesnt say anthing about any codes. The system just doesnt do anything when i hit the switch.. My front drivers side shock has this black cap that is disconnected.. and i am assuming that that has somthing to do with the FX3 system. But i am pretty broke right now and just wanted to throw on normal shocks untill next spring. Then after the engine is re-done i will worry about the suspension. Its kinda hard to give a hoot about suspension when the car doesnt run, heh..
c4cruiser
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The "black cap" is the actuator for that shock. It is a small motor that turns the shock rod which in turn sets the shock rate to match one of the positions on the console switch. It sound like either the shock gear has broken or the actuator is bad.
I asume the "Service Ride Control" light is lit on the DIC, right? If it isn't, the prior owner may have removed the bulb. The light needs to work in order to display the codes.
In the interim, you can get a set of KYB Gas-A-Just from Summit Racing for about $28 per shock. They are very good shocks for the money. Keep your Bilstein FX3 shocks as Bilstein in Poway CA will rebuild them. Call 1-800-537-1085 and ask for Bill Hindorf or Jack in Tech Support when you are ready to get the FX3 system operating. The FX3 was a $1700 option so it's worth getting fixed! The actuators are a GM item or you can get them from Mid America should you need to replace one.
If you haven't already set funds aside for a GM Service Manual, you really need to do so. There is a comprehensive section in the main book about the care and feeding of the Selective Ride Control system including how to retrieve the codes and what they mean. It's the same one the GM service techs use and the book set is well worth the money. Go to www.helminc.com to order a new set or you might try eBay to find a used set.
I asume the "Service Ride Control" light is lit on the DIC, right? If it isn't, the prior owner may have removed the bulb. The light needs to work in order to display the codes.
In the interim, you can get a set of KYB Gas-A-Just from Summit Racing for about $28 per shock. They are very good shocks for the money. Keep your Bilstein FX3 shocks as Bilstein in Poway CA will rebuild them. Call 1-800-537-1085 and ask for Bill Hindorf or Jack in Tech Support when you are ready to get the FX3 system operating. The FX3 was a $1700 option so it's worth getting fixed! The actuators are a GM item or you can get them from Mid America should you need to replace one.
If you haven't already set funds aside for a GM Service Manual, you really need to do so. There is a comprehensive section in the main book about the care and feeding of the Selective Ride Control system including how to retrieve the codes and what they mean. It's the same one the GM service techs use and the book set is well worth the money. Go to www.helminc.com to order a new set or you might try eBay to find a used set.
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AlcHEmiE
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No, the Service ride control isnt on, But im thinking that just because that actuator is disconnected the system is not working. Im going to go out now and mess with it. In all honesty, i dont even know what the FX3 does.. Can anyone explain? But for the meantime i am going to pick up a set of the KYB's and save up to get them rebuilt. What is it per shock to rebuild them? $75-$100? Thanks again
c4cruiser
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The fact that the actuator is disconnected and no SRC light probably means that the previous owner removed the light. A disconnected actuator will cause the light to turn on and set a code for that particular shock location.
The FX3 system "Selective Ride Control" basically provides three different levels of shock stiffness as shown on the console switch. Each setting from "Tour" is progressively stiffer and with the system working properly, you will notice a distinct difference in ride. On my 92 with FX3, when I set the switch to Performance while doing 60 out on a concrete freeway, I can feel and hear the expansion strips between the concrete sections. Changing back to Tour, the bumps and the pop-pop noise from the expansion strips goes away.
In addition to the selector switch setting choices, the SRC controller (which is located behind the driver's seat along with the ABS module) "sees" vehicle speed from the wheel speed sensors and makes finer adjustments to the shocks as speed increases. For example, the "Tour" setting at 80mph is actually much stiffer than the "Performance" setting at 25mph.
The typical cost to completely rebuild a shock at Bilstein is around $100. One thing you should do is to inspect the small pot metal gear at the top of the shock shaft when you remove them. This gear must be in good condition for proper system operation. The actuator is held to the shock top by a spring clip; just pop it off and pull straight up on the actuator. When you remove the shocks and actuators, tape the ends of the harness on the car so they don't get road dirt in them and wire-tie them securely.
The front shocks and actuators are interchangable from side to side. The rear shocks are the same way. The only real difference in the 4 actuators is the cable lengths. The front actuators have longer cables than the rears so the rear actuators will not work on the front shocks simply because of cable length.
In order to do any testing, the actuators cables must be connected and the light in the DIC must work. If you go ahead and put a good bulb in the DIC and connect the cables, we can show you how to retreive the error codes using just a paper clip inserted in the ALDL at the upper right corner of the driver side foot well. The codes will tell you what is wrong with the system and you can begin to make repairs when you are ready.
The FX3 system "Selective Ride Control" basically provides three different levels of shock stiffness as shown on the console switch. Each setting from "Tour" is progressively stiffer and with the system working properly, you will notice a distinct difference in ride. On my 92 with FX3, when I set the switch to Performance while doing 60 out on a concrete freeway, I can feel and hear the expansion strips between the concrete sections. Changing back to Tour, the bumps and the pop-pop noise from the expansion strips goes away.
In addition to the selector switch setting choices, the SRC controller (which is located behind the driver's seat along with the ABS module) "sees" vehicle speed from the wheel speed sensors and makes finer adjustments to the shocks as speed increases. For example, the "Tour" setting at 80mph is actually much stiffer than the "Performance" setting at 25mph.
The typical cost to completely rebuild a shock at Bilstein is around $100. One thing you should do is to inspect the small pot metal gear at the top of the shock shaft when you remove them. This gear must be in good condition for proper system operation. The actuator is held to the shock top by a spring clip; just pop it off and pull straight up on the actuator. When you remove the shocks and actuators, tape the ends of the harness on the car so they don't get road dirt in them and wire-tie them securely.
The front shocks and actuators are interchangable from side to side. The rear shocks are the same way. The only real difference in the 4 actuators is the cable lengths. The front actuators have longer cables than the rears so the rear actuators will not work on the front shocks simply because of cable length.
In order to do any testing, the actuators cables must be connected and the light in the DIC must work. If you go ahead and put a good bulb in the DIC and connect the cables, we can show you how to retreive the error codes using just a paper clip inserted in the ALDL at the upper right corner of the driver side foot well. The codes will tell you what is wrong with the system and you can begin to make repairs when you are ready.
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AlcHEmiE
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okay, thanks for the advice.. Another project for the winter!! Thanks
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- #10
9
90topless
Guest
This is the thread I was looking for. I have the Ride Control Light on in mine. I talked to the local Vette expert at my dealer and he said that if a car sits for a while the shock shafts get stiff and when you turn on the key and the actuators run their test it could break the gear. I was under my car and two of my shocks are leaking so I was going to send them back over the winter.
Do you know if I unhook the actuators from the shocks and then turn the key it would give me reallistic error code so that I could nail down the problem.
Thanks,
Do you know if I unhook the actuators from the shocks and then turn the key it would give me reallistic error code so that I could nail down the problem.
Thanks,
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- #11
R
Randy Eads
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Maybe your shocks are still in good shape ... Oil film on the lower can of the shock is normal according to the service manual ... drips (after jouncing) is not. Could you simply have the light oil film?
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- #12
F
FX3FX3
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My type of topic, any questions e-mail me...
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