I change the oil and filter before I put it away and again before I start it in the spring. Look at the link that I supplied above for the reasons why. Some may say it's not needed but I figure it's a cheap enough precaution to take.
AI head/cam/intake, Vig converter, D44, EM LTs etc
I just drive mine year round. Nothing like seeing the ASR lamp stay lit for an entire trip. My winter prep constist of installing the hard-top.
In my opinion a corvette can and should be driven year round. Last winter there was a blizzard here with black ice and a white out. Tooling around in the Vette was exhilaration at its best. I loved watching all the D.S's in their big 4WD sliding off the road because they equate 4WD with traction on ice. They are wrong my Corvette with LT1, ASR, good weight distribution, and low center of gravity = awesome snow and ice car. Don't store it drive it.
I just drive mine year round. Nothing like seeing the ASR lamp stay lit for an entire trip. My winter prep constist of installing the hard-top.
In my opinion a corvette can and should be driven year round. Last winter there was a blizzard here with black ice and a white out. Tooling around in the Vette was exhilaration at its best. I loved watching all the D.S's in their big 4WD sliding off the road because they equate 4WD with traction on ice. They are wrong my Corvette with LT1, ASR, good weight distribution, and low center of gravity = awesome snow and ice car. Don't store it drive it.
I could never do that where I live. We got really harsh winters with tons of snow. I would get stuck all the time. And especially with all the salt and sand on the roads I wouldnt even consider it.
It is the other idiot drivers you have to look out for, is what scares me. But you get that all year around. I prefer not to drive the vette in the snow, only because I have a 4WD sport utility. I did get caught in a snow storm once at work. It was late in the year, but a solid 40 and sunny. Well little did I know we were going to get 8-10 inches of snow in two hours later that night. Drove home in that crap. Made it, but that was it for the vette in the snow.
I store mine from Oct until April, covered, full tank, stabilizer and I put a trickle charger on the battery. I also run it a few times when the weather is nice. If you don't have heat in the garage you should either remove the battery or trickle charge it otherwise it will discharge (if you don't start the car regularly) and then freeze. Mine emerges in fine shape after such hibernation.
I haven't read all of the above responses to this, so for my .02: I have stored cars under all circumstances for different periods of time for each: if you are just storing up over the winter, don't worry about how much gas is in the tank, (condensation if any, will burn off with the gas when restarted). You don't have to add a fuel stabilizer if you are not storing over a year. I've had cars lay up over 2 years, in a garage, and they fired right up. You don't have to worry about starting them up every once in a while either, but it would have been a good idea to have the oil changed beforehand, this way the car sits with clean oil. When you're ready to hit the road again add some fresh gas. Disconnect the battery and recharge it in spring. Never really had a gasoline problem in storage, especially over a winter nap. A good wax job on the outside is probably more important than worrying about gas in the tank.
"Add gas stabilizer to the tank, fill it up and run it for around 15 minutes. Change the oil and filter, put mothballs around the engine compartment to keep mice at bay. Put a moisture absorbing bag inside. Ball up some aluminum foil and put it in each tailpipe, then cover the tailpipes with a sandwich bag and secure with a rubber band (again, for mice). Connect a Battery Tender Plus, put the cover on it and that's it until spring."
Totally Agree. Leaving old oil (with the acids that accumulate in the oil from use) in the motor over the winter tend to eat into the bearing surfaces...especially for a motor not turned over. To prevent this problem on our inboard boat motors, we don't start them...we turn the crank with a breaker bar (assuming we pulled the battery) about 90 degrees every 1-2 months during layup. I also believe it helps the belts last longer, as well as prevent corrosion builing up around the water pump seals.
I don't bother arguing with people about these prevention measures anymore. If it might help and there are no downsides, we just do it.
I drive mine 9 months out of the year. Do I wax it? You bet your butt. But it's driven. I'm just not about to take a chance on some other idiot on snowy or roads with ice hitting me. You wanna? Go for it. I hope your insurance (agreed $ value I "assume") is paid up, 'cause you're going to need it sooner or later.
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