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ZZ4 Headman Hedders

Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
2,141
Location
Rio Rancho, NM
Corvette
1981 HD Suspension; ZN1 Option
Hi Gang,

I want to share my experience with the ZZ4 Headman Hedders that Ecklers sells in page 133 of its catalog for $199.99 dollars.

As far as hardware, Heddman delivers as advertised, and I did not have to modify any of it to fit the 1981 Vette application. Especially noteworthy were the bolts for the hedders at the heads. A 7/16 X 1/4 drive socket allowed me to tighten most of the bolts with ease. The bolts inside the bend of the lead pipes required an open wrench, but they were easy to get. :s

On the negative side, they come painted with a very thin black base coat of paint (maybe even primer, but I have never seen black primer before). The paint accepted my Hi Temp paint (1,200 degrees) with ease, but even a small bang with another metal surface would chip or flake the paint coat easily.

The warranty disclaims any modification to the hedder to include wrapping of heat insolating material or even ceramic coating. I have seeing other hedders that are ceramic coated, but alot of these are made with 16-gauge sheet metal. I believe that this would be thinner than the 14 gauge sheet metal claimed by Headman (The othe brands' ceramic coated hedders do look nice though). Nevertheless, I felt that with these hedders painted black would match nicely to my chosen color combination of the engine compartment in Chevy blue and black.

The instructions are accurate, and I could not believe how I could not deviate what so ever to install these hedders. It looked like I had plenty of room to install them with spark plugs still in place on the left side of the engine; however, this proved to be foolish, and I had to take them out as instructed in the installation directions. On the right side, it was the same case with the starter -the instructions require removal of the starter. Once the RH hedders were in place, it tested my mechanical abilities :hb to install the starter back into place. Just enough room is available to slide the starter (factory) into place, and before it is seated all the way I had to slide one of the starter bolts (outboard) into the hole and rotate the assy at the same time. :r The inboard bolt went in without problems.

The RH hedder also comes very close to the steering idler arm, but it maybe so, for I have a heavy-duty-type idler arm. The zerk fitting is on its side, at it comes very close to one of the lead pipes. The stock idler arm should be fine with this installation. I still have mine, and it is slightly smaller, and the zerk fitting is at the bottom.

Nearly half of my front "Y" pipe will have to be cut if I don't get a muffler shop to make a custom one for me. I am still reaserching prices for this. If it turns out expensive, then I will sacrifice my nearly-new front "Y" pipe.

The re-installation of the A/C bracket on the right side was very smooth. I had to find the appropiate spacer (about 1 - 3/8") to take-up the welded-on spacer on the factory manifold. Again, I did not have to grind anything on the hedders or related engine hardware.

They look good once installed, I can't wait to finish the job.
Here is a picture. I will post about 4 pictures in this new posting to show how they fit.
 
The hedder view from under the car -looking forward

Tranny clearance looks good...
 
Starter and RH hedder clearance

looks a lot tighter of a clearance in person....:L
 
A?C bracket with spacer

The best material for spacers is 3/8 SS tubing that can be cut to size ;)
 
One last one to show off my progress

sorry about this, but my wife won't even comment in my progress ... :( :cry :confused :L
 
Gerry- With the headers so close to the starter will you be using a heat shield of some sort? Looks like a nice installation job.

Dave
 
Good Point

Burglar,

Excellent observation!

It probably does warrant a heat shield of some kind. This is my first hedder install, so it didn't even crossed my mind.

You know, I forgot to mention directly that the hedder has no provision for an oxygen sensor. So I wonder if anyone would be interested in using it ??? Other than modifying the hedder itself, the only option would be to get their smog-version hedder. Price jumps to approximately $400 :cry

Thanks for the input. :upthumbs
 
GerryLP... do they have that same header (zz4 d port like you've got) with the a.i.r. tubes, or do you have to get their standard version? Your headers look good. The flanges look pretty thick.
 
Chris,

I had found out that they have one AIR-Type hedder for the 81 vette; however, I am not sure if it has the "D" ports. I chose the ZZ4's, for I can do away with the smog-related equipment in the San Doval County, New Mexico where I reside.

Use hedder # 68301. They include AIR provisions and are 49 State legal. For pricing and purchasing information, call your local speed shop, or Summit @ 800-230-3030, or Jeg's @ 800-345-4545. Thank you for your interest in Hedman products.

The quote above is from Hedman Hedders Co. e-mail I received when I inquired about AIR hedders.

The flanges look pretty thick.

Yes! The feel pretty sturdy and provide a good surface (maybe less warping of the flange and more even pressure across the exhaust side of the heads???) for the bolts.

I hope this helps you.
 
I had initially purchased the Hedman headers for my '80. Unfortunately, the set I had didn't hook up eactly right. not sure why. My mechanic determined it was a mfg defect of the pair I had. Unfortunately, when I went to reutn them, they didnt' have more in immediate stock, so I ended up with the Hookers. I preferred the Hedman, as I think they are a bit better quality. Oh well... they work and they work fine. I just wish I woulda popped for the powder-coated.

I think you'll notice a bit more power on your butt dyno. Free flowing headers made a noticeable difference over the older, restrictive iron manifolds...
 
Evo,

I have been working overtime at my job. This means that I have not been able to finish the set-up with a connecting front "Y".

The Thanksgiving holiday will take me to Utah, so I probably won't be able to work my car that four-day weekend either.

My dyno butt will have to wait a while to experience the increased performance.

I ended up with the Hookers.

I was recommended Hooker brand hedders also. I think that they are also nice. :D
 
Does anyone know how unhooking the oxygen sensor will affect performance?

I have been thinking of headers/true duals for my 81 but hesitant because of the computer controlled carb and distributor. If one doesn't use the oxygen sensor but still has the original carb, etc. won't this impact the computer adversely (and therefore performance)?

Wouldn't you have to replace the distributor and carburetor to make the performance optimal? Then just unhook the computer.

Just wondering.....

Thanks

DWade
81 Silver/Dk. Blue
 
Wade,

You are correct! Although the computer is not as sophisticated as the late model ones, it still controls your metered fuel, spark advance, theft deterent (I believe), and a fourth function that at the moment escapes me.

I replaced my engine to include the ignition and carburator. Its probably as close as a 1980 vette set-up (non-california model).
 

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