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rubbing compound

samborskij

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 13, 2004
Messages
103
Location
North Carolina
Corvette
1994 White Coupe, 2004 Spiral Gray Coupe
Is it wise to use Rubbing Compound to remove small scratches ?
Will it damage Clear Coat ?
Or should one just live with it ?
 
Not sure how small the scratches are, but I'd be really, really careful using rubbing compound on the paint. There are some pretty aggressive abrasives there. Can you post pictures of the 'scratches'?
 
Scratches

You might read up on the "Clay bar" type products and see if those would fit your needs. I use the Turtle Wax "ICE Liquid Clay" and it works well at removing those light swirl marks if they are not too deep.

Keep 'em rollin' :W
Bill
 
There are a number of hi tech products of different abrasive levels specially formulated for clear coats. Generally the "polishes" will take out fine scratches or swirls. A "cleaning" compound will remove the deeper scratches, however you must use a high speed buffer for the cleaning compound to be at its highest effectiveness. Note; all of this buffing is done with a sponge buffing pad for clear coat finishes. You can also take it to the highest degree, which requires the most care, using 2000 grit wet sand paper to remove deep scratches.

The usual process would be wet sand, cleaning compound, polish, and then wax. It takes some practice/experience to understand what works where and how much pressure/heat you need to generate to affect the paint.
 
You can get a fine hand polish from Griots garage and use without a buffer, then put on the glaze to cover what you can't rub out.
 
Vetteboy, that's a great idea! I didn't notice his location.
 
Had lunch and a nice visit last week with the master.:blue:
As often as you stop by,I'm surprised that you don't have NC listed as home too!!:chuckle:chuckle:chuckle

:D
 
Is it wise to use Rubbing Compound to remove small scratches ?
Will it damage Clear Coat ?
Or should one just live with it ?

I used the Griot's system on my 1999 hardtop. I bought the whole kit from Griot at Bloomingtom Gold in '98. My black car was covered with fine scratches, mostly from washing and drying. There were also a few deeper scratches. Griot sells polishes with three levels of abrasive. Start with the least abrasive, and get heavier if need be. I needed only the mildest polish in most places, but had to go to the next level at a few. The results were fantastic. All the scratches were gone. After a coat of carnauba wax, the car looked better than new. A lot of elbow grease is called for though, even if you use the electric or air powered polisher.
 
Thanks All

Thanks for the info all, I will buff what I can and live with the rest.
 
Thanks for the info all, I will buff what I can and live with the rest.

There's absolutely no need to do that! You can easily get rid of all of you swirls and scratches. The key is to not continue washing and rubbing on your paint incorrectly which is creating the damage in the first place. Here a quick "how to" on how to do it and what you can use that is safe and effective. I share this info on a bunch of detailing forums. Instead of redirecting you away from here, I'll just post it here.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hey boys and girls! The Junkman is back with another video series that answers those frequently asked questions, "What order am I supposed to use the products to fix my paint issues? What do I use first? What do I use second?"

Well, these 5 videos will finally put an end to those questions for those who are novices to the Adam's line. In these videos, I explain and give a short demo on which products to use, and the order to use them in if you have swirled and scratched up paint. For any novice to the Adam's line of products, I can guarantee that this will eliminate any confusion on what to use and when to use it!

One important note. In the videos, you will hear me talk about "perfecting a spot" before moving on to an adjacent spot in the area you are working. What I mean by that is to get rid of all the swirls, haze or scratches in the very first spot that you start working on using Swirl & Haze Remover (SHR), BEFORE moving to an adjacent spot using SHR. Do not do the whole routine in one spot and then move to an adjacent spot and do the entire routine again. Do the entire car with each step of the process.

The reason I say to do this is that you must develop an effective technique the first time you start using a polisher to remove damage from your paint. That's why you want to ensure that the first spot that you start on is as perfect as you desire before you apply your technique to the entire car. If your technique is bad or ineffective, you don't want to apply that bad technique to the entire car because you'll end up tired an disappointed with your results. Once you are satisfied with the way your results turn out in the very first spot you start on using SHR, apply that same technique over the entire car. Remember, perfection may very from owner to owner so set a level of perfection that is realistic and to YOUR satisfaction.

So, without further delay, grab you some popcorn and kick up your feet. The Junkman is about to break it all down for you. I promise that by the time you're done with these videos, you WILL know which order to use the polishes and waxes.

product_steps.jpg








If your paint is in excellent shape with very minor swirls or scratches, you may be able to skip the use of the Swirl & Haze Remover (SHR) and go straight from claying to the Fine Machine Polish (FMP). If your paint does not need to be clayed (which is determined by the baggie test), then you can start with SHR. If your paint does not need claying and only has very, very little paint damage, you may be able to skip both claying and SHR and start with FMP. All this will make much more sense once you watch the videos and see the order that the products are used. Thus, take them in first, and come back to this paragraph after you have finished. It will all become clear to you at that point.

For those who want to implement Revive Polish into this routine, it would come right after FMP. I usually use Revive Polish when doing very dark colors to give the paint that last touch of finesse.

There are 2 other waxes that you can use in place of Machine Superwax (MSW, which is what I used in these videos). There's the Americana Carnuba Paste Wax and the Buttery Wax. Either can be used in place of MSW. The Americana goes on fast and comes off fast. You don't wait for it to dry or haze. If you do, you will need a chisel to remove it! It does not protect as long as MSW but it does last quite a while depending on how often you wash the car and whether or not the car is garaged or not.

Buttery Wax goes on easy and comes off easy. You will allow it to dry before removing it. It does not last as long as the Americana or MSW, however, it is easy to apply and remove. MSW is the longest lasting protection that Adam's has to date as it is more of a sealant. It also has the ability to mask very small imperfections in your paint.

One more time on the order! :eek

1. Clay
2. SHR
3. FMP
4. Revive Polish (if you want - was not used in this video series).
5. One of the three waxes of your choice.

Okay boys and girls, let's see those shiny rides!


The Junkman :cool:
 
AJ, thanks for dropping in here and posting. I think with your help he can get his paint fixed up. :thumb
 
Anytime, the pleasure is mine. :thumb
 
Did you see the new pad washer series? How about that for a quick way to clean pads!
 
I used the Griot's system on my 1999 hardtop. I bought the whole kit from Griot at Bloomingtom Gold in '98. My black car was covered with fine scratches, mostly from washing and drying. There were also a few deeper scratches. Griot sells polishes with three levels of abrasive. Start with the least abrasive, and get heavier if need be. I needed only the mildest polish in most places, but had to go to the next level at a few. The results were fantastic. All the scratches were gone. After a coat of carnauba wax, the car looked better than new. A lot of elbow grease is called for though, even if you use the electric or air powered polisher.


That's the system that I have used for years with geat results. It's a quality product.

Junkman provided great information also, really well done.
 
AJ, no I haven't seen that one. Where is it?
 

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