Welcome to the Corvette Forums at the Corvette Action Center!

85 Vette

gounds`

I spend the afternoon trying to clean up the grounds off the battery, installed a new battery, new ground connectors and underneath car cleaned up ground connection and hooked up ground wires which were disconnected. Just tried to jumper the relay to make it work and it would not kick on the fuel pump - where is the ground for the fuel pump relay?
 
probably because it never had a leak down issue....

:confused

Ok, next phase of testing - no fuel pressure turning on the key, pump not functioning - no pressure grounding out the aldl testing ports a and g pump does not come on - pulled oil pressure switch by distributor and used a test wire to connect the two wires, pump came on immediately. Pressure was at 38 pounds. Turned key and vette started to fire here and there and then finally caught and ran. While running pressure was at 30 pounds. As soon as I pulled the test wire the car will start stumbling as pressure drops and then die. Leakdown test was not good as within a minute after turning off car it dropped to 18 pounds from 30 and 5 minutes later was down to 10 pounds. 20 minutes down to 5 pounds. Also just checked A and E on the fuel pump relay and fuel pump kicked right on up to 38 pounds. Thanks for ideas so far.

:confused
 
Ecu

So, am I down to needing an ECU or ECM whichever it is? No signal from the computer to the relay, no 12 volts when key is turned on for first 2 seconds - all this starts with the comp? Just asking as that was what I was originally told it needed. Best place to purchase? Good price?
 
So, am I down to needing an ECU or ECM whichever it is? Best place to purchase? Good price?
Problem is your # 1226870 ECM is a one year only item and the only part # that will work; very hard to come by unless you do rebuilt exchange
Used one on eBay now for $90 (w/ chip )

You realize it will start and run OK just off the oil pressure switch feed to pump ; just takes more cranking to fire up

where is the ground for the fuel pump relay?
IIRC
Pump ground is to one of the engine harness ground wires that all terminate on the large bolt above the oil filter
As shown in previous diagram ,ECM grounds also terminate there
 
I spend the afternoon trying to clean up the grounds off the battery, installed a new battery, new ground connectors and underneath car cleaned up ground connection and hooked up ground wires which were disconnected. Just tried to jumper the relay to make it work and it would not kick on the fuel pump - where is the ground for the fuel pump relay?


That car has a ground wire wherever there is something that uses electricity.

The one that you're most interested in is a stack of 5 wires all on one bolt in the trans bellhousing. That would be directly below the wiper motor, driver side, usually seen from under the car. Almost impossible to access from above. Once its located, see if thats loose or corroded. That stack of wires has the ECM ground, a ground for the instrument cluster and most of the other engine management features. There will also be a small 1/4" strap that runs from the block to the frame.

That stack of grounds goes into the harness in both directions....some go to the bulkhead seal on the passenger side and others go to the big bulkhead plug next to the battery. If there is no outside sign of damage to the plug its probably not worth trying to pull it apart...the bulkhead seal for the harness on the other side is only a seal and simply seals the harness as it enters the cabin. That part of the harness is where your ECM grounds enter. It does not come apart.

This almost has to be a ground issue. IF the pump ran with the oil pressure switch 2 wire plug jumped, but the pump will not run with the relay, that screams ground...question is, where?:confused

Something does NOT add up....the FP relay is not even necessary for the fuel pump to operate.

The fuel pump power system is redundant for this very reason. If the relay fails, the car still runs as long as there is oil pressure...only 4 lbs. The oil pressure switch (2 wire plug) is also called the "back-up" switch...for the fuel pump. It has nothing to do with anything else...Having oil pressure is just a simple way of indicating that the motor is running. If the FP relay is bad, the motor will have to crank for a few seconds to build a few lbs of pressure to trip that switch and then the FP has to run for a second to create fuel pressure. Thats what the FP relay does so nicely, is to prime the injectors so you don;t have to grind the starter forever to get it to lite off..

If you jump the oil press switch, then you can take that fuel pump relay and throw it as far as you can and the car will still run. You proved this. All you did was simulate having oil pressure, which did run the pump. Right?

So, the problem is within the relay circuit and if you have power to the relay, or use a jumper to supply power and it still does not run, that leaves the ground. A control ground or a common? A jumper on the common would answer that, and confirming power from somewhere at the relay eliminates everything else, but the control ground. An inspection of the ECM plugs might not be a bad idea...Thats no more work than cleaning that stack of ground wires while laying under the car..

I already know that there are harness issues with the wild oil pressure readings....seen that, been there. That is a rotten wire (corroded or bad insulation) issue within the harness. Wiggling the bundle around will cause different readings on the gauge even with the engine off.
 
So, am I down to needing an ECU or ECM whichever it is? No signal from the computer to the relay, no 12 volts when key is turned on for first 2 seconds - all this starts with the comp? Just asking as that was what I was originally told it needed. Best place to purchase? Good price?

Stay away from used EMU's...

they kick and bite alot.:rotfl
 
, no 12 volts when key is turned on for first 2 seconds -
Very hard to read the voltage when only on for 2 sec.

Before replacing the ECM , jumper OP switch and start engine ; then test for 12V on control wire to terminal C.
ECM runs pump to prime rails , key on ;then it should operate the relay again when the engine is running
 
ground

All the wires are supposed to be tied into the block? only the actual negative battery cable was attached at the block. The remaining wires were attached to the inspection plate or to the frame on one of the brake line retaining screws/plates. There is also a ground wire to the cooling fan relay attached to the bolts for the brake master cylinder. So, should I ground the relay to the block with a separate wire and see if that makes any difference? I moved all the wires to the bolt holding the trans to the block right next to the battery ground and used a short battery cable to send ground over to the frame rail where the wires were attached previously at the brake line tab and bolt.
 
OP switch

Ok, I started car with OP switch jumped and test green and white wire C on relay. Test light would not come on and confirmed a good ground by testing light on battery. Pull jumper wire, fuel pressure falls and car dies. There was no 1/4 inch ground strap, it had apparently been replaced with a yellow wire wrapped around the steering column and then over to the frame.

"All you did was simulate having oil pressure, which did run the pump. Right?"

Yes, all true, but I can't run around with a jumper wire on the oil pressure switch all the time as the fuel pump will never shut off - it keeps running, key on or key off all the time.
 
Ok, I started car with OP switch jumped and test green and white wire C on relay. Test light would not come on and confirmed a good ground by testing light on battery. Pull jumper wire, fuel pressure falls and car dies. There was no 1/4 inch ground strap, it had apparently been replaced with a yellow wire wrapped around the steering column and then over to the frame.

"All you did was simulate having oil pressure, which did run the pump. Right?"

Yes, all true, but I can't run around with a jumper wire on the oil pressure switch all the time as the fuel pump will never shut off - it keeps running, key on or key off all the time.


Ya dont have to....plug it back in...it'll start..it just take cranking about 3 to 5 seconds and it fires with plug on the low oil press switch. Soon as oil press falls off, pump stops.

you can drive, then you can order your ecm and other parts.

I wonder if you found the right group of grounds....
these are all 16g or 18guage black wire that run right to the harness less than 12" away. there are 5 and they should all be on one bolt. Sometimjes over the oil filter, most times for 86-87 they will be on a bellhousing bolt. 5 Black wires. Can't mis them. The strap....who knows. was from a block on the frame over to mount under the oil temp sender. If thats moved or gone, yellow wire makes sense...

I sure wish I knew we were actually confirming a bad ECM from the start.....you could'a had a new one being delivered by tom orrow...
oh well...
Happy New Year anyway !:w

and if the jumper wires wont make it run, then go ahead and get the EMU. At least you can get to work. might be a little less classy than the vette, but it;ll get ya there..
 
I can't run around with a jumper wire on the oil pressure switch all the time as the fuel pump will never shut off - it keeps running, key on or key off all the time.

Did we not previously diagnose that the oil pressure switch was faulty ( would not close until you had 40 psi ) and needed to be replaced?
If you replace OP switch ,at least gives you the abilty to start and drive car while you look for a replacement ECM
 
Did we not previously diagnose that the oil pressure switch was faulty ( would not close until you had 40 psi ) and needed to be replaced?
If you replace OP switch ,at least gives you the abilty to start and drive car while you look for a replacement ECM


He has more than enough info at this point and we're getting bits and pieces. Just tonite I learn that he was told the ECM was bad and thats the cause of this fuel pump issue....it was the cranking until 55 lbs was reached that told me somethings big wrong....not making sense.

So, I'm stepping out. Too many cooks and all that stuff.

VetteOz, buddy, handle it, if you don;t mind.

I'can;t help this gentleman.

VOz..
the oil pressure is the clue...no way in hell the starter can spin it enough to get 55 lbs much less more that was spoken of...his system has bad wiring to that area from a rotten section of harness that has multiple ground splices, and other sensor splices that are throwing interference between one circuit and another. Mine is doing it with the OP gauge. How do I know? the new sensor and the 80 lbs engine off was a hint, then hot temps and low rpm produced 60 to 80 psi...completely a fantasy. Moving the harness with engine off makes the oil press change...and effects the injectors laft side also. That same harness section also houses the wire to the MAF and temps sensors around the front of the engine.
His oil pressure is wayyyyyyyyyy off, so thats not even worth considering except as more evidence that the harness is damaged, and may contain all the damage thats effecting these systems. I suspect that if he finds that, he finds some answers.
Good Luck
 
he was told the ECM was bad

told? You mean like with WORDS? Words that went away when the sound stopped? Well, I'm tolding him that the air freshener is bad DTC BAF.

C'mon... :eyerole

ECM TOLD him DTC 54 low voltage fuel pump.

Does THAT sound like bad ECM?
 
Here is what is up

Had to haul the wife around today, but I did buy a new oil pressure switch in hopes that it was bad, and I just had to crank the pressure up to get the car to run on the oil pressure switch controlling the fuel pump. I still do not have any action off of the new relay I bought when I turn on the key as I believe it is either not grounded or ecm is not sending a signal. This should get me running most of the time except with the hot stalling problems unless, once the oil heated up, the pressure switch would not stay on?? I'll check back in once I know.

"his system has bad wiring to that area from a rotten section of harness that has multiple ground splices, and other sensor splices that are throwing interference between one circuit and another. Mine is doing it with the OP gauge. How do I know? the new sensor and the 80 lbs engine off was a hint, then hot temps and low rpm produced 60 to 80 psi...completely a fantasy."

Should I start with replacing the oil pressure sending unit? I have had many 350 chevy's running 60 pounds when running which is what this one shows once it is started. Hot and going down the road it is running between 61 and 65 pounds it is not pegged out at 80 - I have not seen 80 pounds on it yet.

Appreciate everyone's help - vetteoz both here and with digitalvette - boom driver - big thanks also - you may be on to something - I'll see what I can do to check it out underneath the dash - not my favorite place to be as I barely fit in the vette, much less upside down. Also, I was checking everything else out as I was told I have an ecu coming but I have not confirmed it. Can I get a replacement ECU or do I need a complete ECU with prom chips etc.?
 
I still do not have any action off of the new relay I bought when I turn on the key as I believe it is either not grounded or ecm is not sending a signal.
One last check
Check for continuity on relay control wire between ECM and relay.
ECM may be working and sending signal but if wire faulty then would not be getting power to relay.
ECM can be unbolted and dropped down for easier access to connectors


Can I get a replacement ECU or do I need a complete ECU with prom chips etc.?
You swap your chip into the replacement ECM
 
Terminal A1 on the smaller 24 way ECM connector is the pump relay control wire ( green / white )
Test for continuity ( need DVM set on Ohms ) between terminal A1 @ ECM and terminal C on relay.If no continuity then have broken wire somewhere

Also with ECM dropped down , you could probe that terminal with your test light while engine running to see if ECM sending power


870ECM.gif
 
Ecm

I put in new oil pressure switch today and it cranks a little but not near as much as before. With new fuel pump relay, now when I jumper 12 volts to wire C the fuel pump does kick on. I will move to ECM and apply 12 volts there to see if wire is good.
 
I put in new oil pressure switch today and it cranks a little but not near as much as before. With new fuel pump relay, now when I jumper 12 volts to wire C the fuel pump does kick on. I will move to ECM and apply 12 volts there to see if wire is good.

Make SURE you identify the CORRECT pin that you apply 12V to in the ECM socket. 12V D/C into a 5V PWM pin will make your ECM a piece of toast in need of butter & marmalade jam...
 
Make SURE you identify the CORRECT pin that you apply 12V to in the ECM socket. 12V D/C into a 5V PWM pin will make your ECM a piece of toast in need of butter & marmalade jam...
If he pulls the connector out of the ECM to test the wire he won't have a problem
In any case as I suggested above he should be testing for continuity with a DVM
 
Finishing up

Well, the replacement ECU arrived, the fuel pump now runs for two seconds when you turn on the key and it starts much easier. Thank-you for all your help and for those that are interested, you can buy just about any 85 chevrolet ecu as long as it is the same number. Mine came out of a 2.8 liter cavalier according to wrecking yard but had same number - just swapped out prom and away I went - 40 bucks shipped.
 

Corvette Forums

Not a member of the Corvette Action Center?  Join now!  It's free!

Help support the Corvette Action Center!

Supporting Vendors

Dealers:

MacMulkin Chevrolet - The Second Largest Corvette Dealer in the Country!

Advertise with the Corvette Action Center!

Double Your Chances!

Our Partners

Back
Top Bottom