Rear Wheel bearing and Teflon washer install write ups pics etc.

[Steve40th]

Getting ready to do my rear wheel bearings, SKF, and put two new teflon washers. I have the FSM, and understand the new torque spec for the spindle nut is 180, vice 164.
Also, the teflon washer goes in a specific way, yet it isnt real clear as to how it sits in there.

 

[Schrade]

There's a photo write-up on this procedure on one of the vette boards. I think it is CF, but I can't search there, since they locked me out... You should be able to find it.

 

[Steve40th]

I have been locked for life there too.

 

[Schrade]

I thought I was at the bottom of the dregs solo.



I'm innocent tho' YUp.

You?

 

[Steve40th]

I was banned for life for commenting on a thread about a guy being banned, among other little things.
Forum sux since the mafia took over. They are power hungry. Pewter99 is a p...k

 

[Schrade]

He's the one who sent me packin' too.

I got tired of blood and guts in OT. Told 'em to post pics of the stabbed tourist in Japan, and the bullet-riddled DC dog, and quit teasin' with WORDS.

SHOW ME. Or shut it up.

Pw99 shut me up. WAH. Not.

:L

 

[Schrade]

Anything here?

 

[Schrade]

The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 4 characters.

I can only find 3 characters:



+ me makes 4?

 

[Steve40th]

The teflon washer is hard to understand how it goes in based on FSM pics etc. It has a lip, and would make sense it rides up against the spindle. But the way the FSM speaks isnt easy to understand.

 

[WhalePirot]

Getting ready to do my rear wheel bearings, SKF, and put two new teflon washers. I have the FSM,

I checked mine and returned one; the Chinese sourced one. the SKF in the box marked "Made in USA" was nice ad tight. The other one was as loose as the 110+k mile bearing I removed.

Neither mY FSM nor the Corvette parts-book diagram/list I have doesn't even show the washer. I think you'll see that (if that's the washer I am thinking of) that the lip goes into the seal and the axle abuts the smooth side.

 

[Schrade]

I don't know if pre-load on vette bearings is fool-proof, but on some domestic axle bearing sets (Dana 30 for one), you can do the pre-load to '0' spec, with the first nut, and washer, but even with fine threaded axles, as soon as you lock down the outer/castle nut, then the pre-load nut is off, and you won't know it without spinning the rim by hand.

You might need to feel the wheelspin under pre-load (carefully, because the pre-load nut will spin too), then you have to try to match the feel after locking the 'castle' nut.

If you drop it and drive, without feeling the wheel, you could probably waste the bearing in 15 minutes...

 

[John Robinson]

Using the FSM. I have one and use it almost daily but one thing I learned many years ago is they are not perfect. I rebuilt the clutch on a motorcycle and reassembled the spacers according to the FSM for that motorcycle. When I went to use the clutch it would not disengage and I spent a month doing micrometer and dial indicator stack ups. I went to different bike shops looked at there FSM and bulletins and talked to their mechanics. Finally I sat down and played with the parts to see if I could figure out how they went. What I discovered was that the FSM was showing the spacers on the wrong side of the clutch basket. I then reassembled the clutch and it worked fine. Since then I have tried to remember that even the best FSM can have errors since it was produced by humans.

If there is a tab on the teflon washer then you just have to find how it fits without being forced in the assembly. If you do then maybe you could take some pictures and post a short how to for the rest of us to file away for our turn at replacing these bearings.

 

[boomdriver]

Using the FSM. I have one and use it almost daily but one thing I learned many years ago is they are not perfect. I rebuilt the clutch on a motorcycle and reassembled the spacers according to the FSM for that motorcycle. When I went to use the clutch it would not disengage and I spent a month doing micrometer and dial indicator stack ups. I went to different bike shops looked at there FSM and bulletins and talked to their mechanics. Finally I sat down and played with the parts to see if I could figure out how they went. What I discovered was that the FSM was showing the spacers on the wrong side of the clutch basket. I then reassembled the clutch and it worked fine. Since then I have tried to remember that even the best FSM can have errors since it was produced by humans.

If there is a tab on the teflon washer then you just have to find how it fits without being forced in the assembly. If you do then maybe you could take some pictures and post a short how to for the rest of us to file away for our turn at replacing these bearings.

I was going to add that whenever a lip or edge on a washer/spacer is encountered, the flat side always goes against the bolt/nut so the max pressure from torqueing can be applied equally. That lip is most often for centering in a race or seal.

JR,
I had similar experience with a bike FSM...the book had all the inners plates stacked together...with outer all together. The thing slipped like crazy. Disassembly and some thought reveiled that their way only had 2 plates actually meeting and doing the work. After re-stacking every-other inner/outter I suddenly got a super tight clutch. Different springs in the hubs cap controlled how much tension was on the whole assembly.The book did'nt even talk about that.