Question: Code 32

[John Robinson]

I am getting a code 32 after driving on the interstate for about 10 miles. In looking at the my fsm there are four pages of diagnostic charts. My problem is this the fsm keeps referring to the diagnostic test terminal. I can not find a reference as to what or were this diagnostic test terminal is located. Being a cautious sort I am afraid to start probing for it because I dont want to go frying any of the eletrical parts.

 

[Hib Halverson]

It that's 12-pin connector underneath the dash on the driver side. It's where you connect a scan tester.

 

[John Robinson]

It that's 12-pin connector underneath the dash on the driver side. It's where you connect a scan tester.

Thanks Hib I thought that was it but since nowere in the fsm did it say it was the diagnostic test terminal I was thinking it must be some other connector. I beleive the manual refers to that connector as the diagnostic lead connector. Then in the code 32 they changed it to diagnostic test terminal. Now I know were to jumper the egr solonoid to ground to follow the procedure for testing.

There are times when it is better to ask then assume you know and do something like fry the ecm. This is one of those rare cases were the fsm left me confused. I really appreciate your taking the time to share your knowledge about this.

 

[Hib Halverson]

It's the "Diagnostic Link Connector" or DLC.

The diagnostic test terminal is pin B in that connector...top row, fifth from left. That's the one you ground then the FSM says to "ground the diagnostic test terminal.

There are diagrams of the DLC pin-outs on Charts A-1 and A-2.

 

[John Robinson]

So I need to use B for the diagnostic test terminal. Is that right? This is interesting I now can see tht each terminal in this connector is a data input check connection. See attached picture.

Now I am confused I just looked at chart A1 & A2 The DLC in them is totally different in its layout of pin locations then this picture of the DLC from the same manual.

 

[John Robinson]

I jumped the a to b on the DLC and then put a test light across the egr solonoid connector and the light came on. It looks like the code 32 is being caused by a bad solonoid valve form what the diagnostic chart says.

 

[Hib Halverson]

So I need to use B for the diagnostic test terminal. Is that right? This is interesting I now can see tht each terminal in this connector is a data input check connection. See attached picture.

Now I am confused I just looked at chart A1 & A2 The DLC in them is totally different in its layout of pin locations then this picture of the DLC from the same manual.

They are the same connector. It just that the two drawings are made a little differently and one is right side up, the other is upside down. Turn page 8A-202-1 upside down and you'll see it's the same.

I jumped the a to b on the DLC and then put a test light across the egr solonoid connector and the light came on. It looks like the code 32 is being caused by a bad solonoid valve form what the diagnostic chart says.

Please, post the results of your repairs.

 

[toptechx6]

I have found the EGR and Canister purge solenoids to be common failure items. A simple test to confirm if you have a multimeter is to check for continuity across the two terminals of the solenoid with the connector removed. Infinite resistance or an open reading indicates the solenoid is bad.

 

[John Robinson]

I have found the EGR and Canister purge solenoids to be common failure items. A simple test to confirm if you have a multimeter is to check for continuity across the two terminals of the solenoid with the connector removed. Infinite resistance or an open reading indicates the solenoid is bad.

I tested the solenoid electrical connection and do not get continuity but I do get a 45 reading which I would guess is 45 Ohms of Resistance . Based on what you say and what the fsm diagnostic chart shows me I believe the valve is bad. I have good vacuum and the engine stalls when I move the diaphragm.

 

[toptechx6]

I tested the solenoid electrical connection and do not get continuity but I do get a 45 reading which I would guess is 45 Ohms of Resistance . Based on what you say and what the fsm diagnostic chart shows me I believe the valve is bad. I have good vacuum and the engine stalls when I move the diaphragm.

Does not sound like I made myself clear John. You want to take your ohm reading across the pins of the solenoid, not the connector. If the solenoid is open (infinite resistance) it is bad. The bad solenoids I have found typically set code 26 for the quad driver circuit #1, not code 32, but looking at the chart for code 32 it looks like a bad solenoid could set that one too. Let me know what you find after rechecking the solenoid resistance.

 

[John Robinson]

Does not sound like I made myself clear John. You want to take your ohm reading across the pins of the solenoid, not the connector. If the solenoid is open (infinite resistance) it is bad. The bad solenoids I have found typically set code 26 for the quad driver circuit #1, not code 32, but looking at the chart for code 32 it looks like a bad solenoid could set that one too. Let me know what you find after rechecking the solenoid resistance.

You were clear it was me who was not. My readings were the solenoid itself not the connector the connector tested good to the fsm chart. I put a testlight across the connecter and grounded the b terminal on the dlc and the light came which the chart says it should.

 

[toptechx6]

You were clear it was me who was not. My readings were the solenoid itself not the connector the connector tested good to the fsm chart. I put a testlight across the connecter and grounded the b terminal on the dlc and the light came which the chart says it should.

Okay, got it. If you had 45 ohms resistance at the solenoid I would look elsewhere, all of the ones I've seen that were bad were wide open, no reading at all using the DVOM. The only other qualifier would be make sure your meter is on the lowest scale.

 

[John Robinson]

New test results

I used my digital meter set on it's lowest setting and it showed .035 Ohms. Then I used my Fluke meter that has a very loud continuity signal. It gave a weak signal for continuity with the 35 showing in the window. I guess that would mean the solenoid valve is OK but wonder why the signal is so weak.

Could it be that the solenoid valve is breaking down when it gets hot from running on the road

 

[toptechx6]

The continuity tone is weak because of the 35 ohms resistance. There is a more detailed test for the solenoid in the chart for DTC 26, seem to recall it is a current measurement, you will need to connect an ammeter in the circuit and the test may also require a Tech 1 to activate the solenoid.
I would not condemn the solenoid based on the resistance measurement., I only suggested it as a quick check to for good/bad based on past experience.

 

[John Robinson]

My air pump does not work and has not worked for nearly two years. Reading the DTC26 section it appears that it's not working may be causing my DTC32. As I recall the air pump is blowing the fuse and I just removed the fuse. I did not think since the air pump only operated for a short time during the warmup process that I would need to replace it. I may have to investigate getting a new one.

 

[John Robinson]

Update on code 32

Yesterday I again had a code 32 while driving on the interstate. Speed was over 80 for an extended period of time. Today I finally removed the EGR and verified the lintel was able to hold liquid without any loss. Ok at least the EGR was not hanging up with an open lintel. Next I got a piece of vacuum hose because I was going to put it on the EGR and see if I could move the diaphragm. No success there but in removing the vacuum hose from the EGR I noticed that it appeared there was no hole in the egr for vacuum to pull the diaphragm. Used a dentel pick and removed and opened up the hole and pushed the diaphragm in and out and air came out of the vacuum hole. I won't know for sure if this is the cure until I drive the car on the road again but I can sure see that without vacuum the EGR could not respond to the ECM so I am hopeful this is the fix.

 

[Crazyace909]

Yesterday I again had a code 32 while driving on the interstate. Speed was over 80 for an extended period of time. Today I finally removed the EGR and verified the lintel was able to hold liquid without any loss. Ok at least the EGR was not hanging up with an open lintel. Next I got a piece of vacuum hose because I was going to put it on the EGR and see if I could move the diaphragm. No success there but in removing the vacuum hose from the EGR I noticed that it appeared there was no hole in the egr for vacuum to pull the diaphragm. Used a dentel pick and removed and opened up the hole and pushed the diaphragm in and out and air came out of the vacuum hole. I won't know for sure if this is the cure until I drive the car on the road again but I can sure see that without vacuum the EGR could not respond to the ECM so I am hopeful this is the fix.

Did it fix your problem? Mine throws this code 32 also only on interstate driving also even after I replaced the EGR valve and the EGR solenoid so I am chasing the same issue.

 

[John Robinson]

nOT SURE i HAVE TAKEN A 666 MILE DAY TRIP AND ON THE OUT LEG OF THE TRIP I GOT THE CODE. bEFORE LEAVING i BOUGHT GAS AT MY REGULAR PLACE AND BRAND. ON THE RETURN i BOUGHT GAS AT A DIFFERENT PLACE AND BRAND IT I DID NOT GET THE CODE ON THE WAYB HOME. GO FIGURE. BECAUSE THERE ARE SO MANY PARTS TOT HE ECM GETTING ITS INFORMATION I SUPPOSE IT IS POSSIBLE THE QUALITY OF THE GAS MAY SET THIS CODE.

 

[Schrade]

32 DTC is failure to hold vacuum in EGR.

Put a jumper on the solenoid that trips EGR purge. That will HOLD the EGR pintel open, and allow the EGR circuit to draw air, until vacuum is equalized with intake. Failure to equalize vac with intake means leak in the EGR vacuum lines.

Then do my magic vacuum leak test:

Originally Posted by Blade_1
Originally Posted by Schrade
No one got the proper technique for vacuum leak detection...

FIRST (fully warmed up motor); block the pedal, or block the throttle linkage. YOU HAVE TO DO THIS TO GET A STEADY IDLE , around 1,250 rpms, or a little higher. If you don't, you can fish starting fluid, a propane hose, or WD40, or Krylon, or hair spray, or pee, anything, until you need a sweater in Hades, but if the motor is lopin' already from a vacuum leak, you ain't gonna' find any vacuum leak, unless it's so big that Little Jack Horner can stick his thumb in it and pull out a pineapple NOPE.

AFTER you get a steady idle, THEN, you can spray starting fluid everywhere - that's the best detector, because it's vapor pressure is very high - a LITTLE at a time, until you get the SURGE. Follow the vacuum lines to the EVAP cannister too. You might even have to follow the EVAP lines from the EVAP cannister to the gas tank too, but that vac leak will show up as a DTC 32 EGR fault, and won't normally show as loping idle, unless the EVAP cannister has been by-passed (been there, saw that uh-huh).

If you get a surge in a tight spot, and can't tell exactly where it is, light a book of matches, blow out the match heads while they're still burnin', and feed the smoke to the tight spot.

Fear not the starting fluid; you cannot put the can down fast enough and light the matches fast enough to catch the starting fluid, because the vapor pressure is so high.

Bookmark this post YUP.

 

[John Robinson]

Schrade I am a little confused about the jumper of the egr solinoid. Are you saying to remove the connector and jump the solinoid? Or do I jump the connector so the ECM thinks the solinoid is working?

How did you know I had a rough idle. I diffinetly will be looking at the vacuum lines as you suggested.