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Ok? Gas tank door locking problems

Where are we at on this problem? Whats the latest?

C'mon, inquiring minds want to know!
 
I have been working to much (Monday - Saturday 6:00 AM 5:00 PM. plus traffic commute) to get it changed out. I have a new assembly and I believe I am pretty sure what the problem is, when the door is actuated via the console switch, the magnetic coil is pulling the pin in and it is jamming inside the electro-magnetic assembly. It will release with any slight pull on the manual door lanyard.

I am hoping to photograph the new assembly this weekend and post some pictures here.

Thanks again for your help.;):upthumbs
 
Pictures hopefully

Pardon the lighting and the pictures as I do not have much of a digital camera to talk about. I believe one can get enough information though, if they read the thread above and then look at the photos.

GM Part Number:

10275633 Actuator 12.945, List price $72.53

Hopefully the pictures will be from left to right in order,

1. The actuator end which is inside the fuel door.

2. The protective rubber grommet which sticks up inside the area above the wheel well.

3. The main assembly it self. The left side shows the lanyard connected to the main cable assembly, center section is mounting flange, and the right side is where the electrical conncetor plugs into the main asembly

4. Lanyard
 
Pseudomind-
I just noticed the "from GED to MBA" in your sig. Congratulations! That is quite an accomplishment.
 
Thanks and there was quite a bit involved with my attaining this pinnacle, even if I never use the degree, personal satisfaction if nothing else. Let’s just say my childhood on a scale of 1 to 10 was probably between a 2 or 3. I finally quite school in my senior year at 17 and joined the US Army, hello at least there you get paid for being abused
 
Pseudomind said:
I looked at another 2002 Corvette with the gas door opened. With the door open the shaft does not protrude out of the actuator any at all when the door is open, so apparently when one closes the door something triggers the shaft to spring out and engaging the plate mounted on the door assembly itself.

Try to envision the image rotated to the left 90 degrees as shown in the diagram
Red is the locking nut which shows in the inside of the diagram
Blue is the actuator body which the looking nut screws onto.
Black is the inside shaft itself. The shaft is cut at taper, tapers toward the front.

With gas door open the shaft is flush with the outer edge of the actuator, apparently when one closes the door the shaft slides out engaging the hole on the plate attached to the gas door.

This is for a 2005 Corvette but the diagram here looks very much the same except the tab located in the hatch area. Switch inside fuel door looks the same but can be sure. A photo would show up better.:_rock
 
I believe 68roadster had some photo's at one time posted in this thread, but they are gone now. This was a picture of the inside of the fuel door, which showed the door locking pin sticking out.

Did you look at this diagram?

attachment.php
 
Pseudomind said:
Pardon the lighting and the pictures as I do not have much of a digital camera to talk about. I believe one can get enough information though, if they read the thread above and then look at the photos.

GM Part Number:

10275633 Actuator 12.945, List price $72.53

Hopefully the pictures will be from left to right in order,

1. The actuator end which is inside the fuel door.

2. The protective rubber grommet which sticks up inside the area above the wheel well.

3. The main assembly it self. The left side shows the lanyard connected to the main cable assembly, center section is mounting flange, and the right side is where the electrical conncetor plugs into the main asembly

4. Lanyard

The closest resemblence is the Lanyard the tab with the cable. In my case you pull the tab it will release door but cable doesn't fully retract in such a way that the switch doesn't pop back out for the latch to catch. Push the tab and cable in and then it pops out.:_rock
 
Pseudomind said:
Pardon the lighting and the pictures as I do not have much of a digital camera to talk about. I believe one can get enough information though, if they read the thread above and then look at the photos.

GM Part Number:

10275633 Actuator 12.945, List price $72.53

Hopefully the pictures will be from left to right in order,

1. The actuator end which is inside the fuel door.

2. The protective rubber grommet which sticks up inside the area above the wheel well.

3. The main assembly it self. The left side shows the lanyard connected to the main cable assembly, center section is mounting flange, and the right side is where the electrical conncetor plugs into the main asembly

4. Lanyard

C-6 is different at least the switch that locks onto the gas door as it isn't pointed like the C-5. The C-6 is like a little round nipple like a small bb.
 
Hi Folks -

I had the same problem with my Z06 - but I did not buy the whole actuator.

The problem (at least with mine) is that whenever the car gets wet, at the car wash, in the rain etc, the release plunger guide can fill with water, leaving the spring to rust and deteriorate.

Eventually, the spring will break and or gum up the plunger with rust debris.

I bought a spring assortment at Lowes and repaired mine for $4.90.

If you could buy just the one spring it took, it would be under a buck.

Here are some pics of what I did to my Z06.

http://www.iammoon.com/c5tech/fuel_filler_door.htm

best regards -

mqqn
 
mqqn said:
Hi Folks - I bought a spring assortment at Lowes and repaired mine for $4.90.


http://www.iammoon.com/c5tech/fuel_filler_door.htm

best regards -

mqqn

Excellent mqqn. Nice job. I have the same problem right now, have been using the cable to push the pin out to close the fuel door. lol! PITB!! Yes, balls hehe.
 
Yes Mqqn very good. The photos really make a difference. I like the link so well I saved it as a document for future reference.

I have a question for you since I currently do not have a cable assembly to look at, how is the plunger held into the plunger guide? Is it held in place by the spring tension, e.g. you push in the guide and turn it locking it into place and then the spring tension holds it there.

The GM fix must be a "sell a part issue," as they (at least for me and the manual shows replacing the complete assembly) never mention anything about disassembling the plunger and replacing the spring. Certainly as one would have to pull the complete assembly anyway to replace, how much longer would it take to just replace the spring The hourly rate would be the same, except GM sales the complete assembly for around $75.00
 
Pseudomind said:
Yes Mqqn very good. The photos really make a difference. I like the link so well I saved it as a document for future reference.

I have a question for you since I currently do not have a cable assembly to look at, how is the plunger held into the plunger guide? Is it held in place by the spring tension, e.g. you push in the guide and turn it locking it into place and then the spring tension holds it there.

The GM fix must be a "sell a part issue," as they (at least for me and the manual shows replacing the complete assembly) never mention anything about disassembling the plunger and replacing the spring. Certainly as one would have to pull the complete assembly anyway to replace, how much longer would it take to just replace the spring The hourly rate would be the same, except GM sales the complete assembly for around $75.00

:L I don't know what the cost of the part is along with the labor for the total. This will be a warranty repair for a 2005 Corvette. It should take them less than an hour.:_rock
 
Hi folks -

Thanks for the kind comments - glad to help.

Pseudo - The plunger is held in place with the cable end (a ball of metal on the end of the cable) in a notch in the plunger with the cable going through the spring.

The spring tension on the plungers flange keeps the tension on the cable so it cannot slip out of the plunger slot.

If you have ever worked on a CV motorcycle carb with a slide, the concept is the same - you have to compress the spring with the cable going through it, then put the ball end of the cable in the slot in the plunger, then release the spring - viola! It's fixed!

I did fill the cavity of the plunger guide with silicone grease to prevent water from getting in there, but I would mention that the new spring from the assortment looked like it was cad plated and SHOULD resist corrosion better than the stocker did.

Also - while the inner fender panel is out, that's a good time to vac the crud out of your hollow rocker panels - I was surprised at how much sand and debris was in there - If I had not bought this car new, I would have thought it was in a flood!

best regards -

mqqn
 
mqqn said:
Hi Folks -

I had the same problem with my Z06 - but I did not buy the whole actuator.

The problem (at least with mine) is that whenever the car gets wet, at the car wash, in the rain etc, the release plunger guide can fill with water, leaving the spring to rust and deteriorate.

Eventually, the spring will break and or gum up the plunger with rust debris.

I bought a spring assortment at Lowes and repaired mine for $4.90.

If you could buy just the one spring it took, it would be under a buck.

Here are some pics of what I did to my Z06.

http://www.iammoon.com/c5tech/fuel_filler_door.htm

best regards -

mqqn

Strange that you mention water as the day before I rinsed down the car. Which does the whole actuator look like?:_rock
 
abc said:
Strange that you mention water as the day before I rinsed down the car. Which does the whole actuator look like?:_rock

Hi abc -

The actuator solenoid unit is under the sail panel beauty cover on the drivers side just behind the driver. You must remove the interior panel to get to it (per the Helms Manual).

If your problem is just a rusty or broken spring, you do not have to even get inside the car - just the drivers side rear wheelwell.

The cable runs from the actuator, forward to the rear of the fender pocket in the fender. The cable is concealed by the inner fender panel.

Pictures of the whole unit are shown in this prior post in this thread by Pseudomind -

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showpost.php?p=682084&postcount=23

best regards -

mqqn
 
mqqn said:
Hi abc -

The actuator solenoid unit is under the sail panel beauty cover on the drivers side just behind the driver. You must remove the interior panel to get to it (per the Helms Manual).

If your problem is just a rusty or broken spring, you do not have to even get inside the car - just the drivers side rear wheelwell.

The cable runs from the actuator, forward to the rear of the fender pocket in the fender. The cable is concealed by the inner fender panel.

Pictures of the whole unit are shown in this prior post in this thread by Pseudomind -

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showpost.php?p=682084&postcount=23

best regards -



:cool thanks for the info. The dealership will be doing install today.
 
Once gas prices got over $3.00 per gallon, I had some difficulty opening my gas tank door as well.

Remo:cool
 

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