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Lowering

Glide

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
118
Location
Charles Town, WV
Corvette
1971 Shark, 1985 C4, 2011 C6, 99 FRC. 66 Coupe
Ever notice how high the rear end sits? Is there any kind of adjustment to lower the rear an inch on so on the C-4? If not, what would the easiest way be to do this. The rear end sits up like something from Nascar now.:)
 
Thanks! Lowering the rear looks easy enough. The front is good, so I probably won't have to align.

Your car has a really nice stance, sorta like I want. I don't need it slammed just even (level). Now you can fit two fingers between the body and tire up front but four and a half in the rear.
 
Yeah, the "gap factor" was a big part of my decision to lower. I too did the finger measuring thing...hmmm, this thread is starting to sound kinda...funky! :L

Bottom line, I achieved what I was after and the car feels great as well. The longer rear bolts should get ya' the "level look" you're after. Cya
2007Vet2.jpg
 
JEFNLSA - Ok now that I've been under the car, are you talking about the two long bolts just inside the rear wheels? There seems to be a lot of adjustment in the stock bolts.. I would loose to lower? Thanks!
 
JEFNLSA - Ok now that I've been under the car, are you talking about the two long bolts just inside the rear wheels? There seems to be a lot of adjustment in the stock bolts.. I would loose to lower? Thanks!

Yep, those are them. The closer you get the nut to the end of the bolt, the lower the car. I have mine all the way to the end & then I drilled a very small hole at the end of the bolt and put a cotter pin through it just for insurance.

Adsjustment is very easy and, who knows, you just may have enough adjustment w/ the stock bolts to get you where you want.
 
They are a special grade 8 bolt/washer/nut. But you are right they are making out pretty good. Check out Vette brakes and parts (Forum sponsor) they have the lowering bolts for a little less than MadVet and they give discounts to forum members, so it will be a bit cheaper yet.
 
You should be able to got to an industrial supply and pick up some grade 8 bolts for just a few bucks each.

Glenn
:w
 
You should be able to got to an industrial supply and pick up some grade 8 bolts for just a few bucks each.

Glenn
:w
Does anyone know the size bolt these are i know they are grade 8 but what size is the bolt and what size is the nut ?
 
Does anyone know the size bolt these are i know they are grade 8 but what size is the bolt and what size is the nut ?

I'm sure you can just take a caliper to the ones you have on there already. I don't think the bolts are different besides the fact they they are just longer. I don't think thread spacing should even matter. Just get the right nut for the bolt.


my $0.02
 
I susppect you have to be careful taking it off. Could be some tention on it?
 
After lowering your car (front or back) an alignment should probably be done.
 
I susppect you have to be careful taking it off. Could be some tention on it?

I imagine there would be some tension unless you jack up the car so that the rear wheels are not supported from the bottom (ie not on the pavement).
 
With the car supported on jack stands or lift you will need to put the jack on a block of wood on the spring to relieve the tension; the weight of the car "hangs" on the spring therefore a longer bolt lowers the car in the rear
 
I did what JEFNSLA did. Moved nuts to lowest position and drilled new holes (ouch) for cottor pins. Lowered almost an inch. I'm happy with that. Thanks guys!
 

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