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C5 stock shifter

garllo

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 22, 2007
Messages
70
Location
connecticut
Corvette
2004 Torch Red Convertible
I have a 98 coupe with a 6speed and stock shifter. Runs well and although I don't baby the car I don't hammer it either. Every once in a while when shifting from 4th to 5th if I push the shifter too hard or don't hit it just right it will grind alittle going into 5th. I read something about realighning the shifter. They list a proceedure in the shop manual(7-29). Does anyone have any input that would shed some light on this?I don't want to damage the syncros.
 
If you ever had any experience with the old style Hurst shifters from the 60s-70s, you'll remember the "neutral alingment pin" that held the shifter's arms in alignment while you adjusted the rods to the right length to fit in the shift levers on the tranny. The C-5 has a similar adjustment.

I have the shop manual at home, but my computer is at work, so I'm doing this by memory. I did this adjustment to my car several years ago, when I installed my Hurst shifter. Basically, there is a long shaft that controls the shifting action. The shifter moves this shaft fore and aft, as well as rotating the shaft as you go side to side through the gates.

If you remove the shift boot, and possibly the console cover, (I don't remember if the cover has to come off or not), you will see this rod on the left of the transmission tunnel. There should also be a "hitch pin" clipped to the front of the shifter. When the shifter is in neutral, this pin goes through a hole in the shifter, holding it in neutral. Look at the shift rod, and make sure the hole in the clamp is EXACTLY in line with the hole in the shift control rod. Use a drill bit the EXACT size of the hole in the clamp for verification.

If the drill goes through, you're OK. If it doesn't, loosen the bolt on the clamp, and slide the clamp fore or aft, or rotate it, until the drill goes through both holes, verifying alignment. Tighten the bolt, IIRC it's 15 ft./lbs. of torque, remove both the drill and hitch pin, and you should be good to go. Replace the boot and/or console cover.

Hope this helps...........
 
If you ever had any experience with the old style Hurst shifters from the 60s-70s, you'll remember the "neutral alingment pin" that held the shifter's arms in alignment while you adjusted the rods to the right length to fit in the shift levers on the tranny. The C-5 has a similar adjustment.

I have the shop manual at home, but my computer is at work, so I'm doing this by memory. I did this adjustment to my car several years ago, when I installed my Hurst shifter. Basically, there is a long shaft that controls the shifting action. The shifter moves this shaft fore and aft, as well as rotating the shaft as you go side to side through the gates.

If you remove the shift boot, and possibly the console cover, (I don't remember if the cover has to come off or not), you will see this rod on the left of the transmission tunnel. There should also be a "hitch pin" clipped to the front of the shifter. When the shifter is in neutral, this pin goes through a hole in the shifter, holding it in neutral. Look at the shift rod, and make sure the hole in the clamp is EXACTLY in line with the hole in the shift control rod. Use a drill bit the EXACT size of the hole in the clamp for verification.

If the drill goes through, you're OK. If it doesn't, loosen the bolt on the clamp, and slide the clamp fore or aft, or rotate it, until the drill goes through both holes, verifying alignment. Tighten the bolt, IIRC it's 15 ft./lbs. of torque, remove both the drill and hitch pin, and you should be good to go. Replace the boot and/or console cover.

Hope this helps...........
OK! I aligned the shifter today. Went thru the proceedure in the shop manual,
took it for a ride-same condition-would grind going into 5th.As I was driving and shifting without the counsul and with the shifter exposed it seemed that the shifter housing had alot of side to side movement. Went home and pulled the shifter out housing and all and low and behold? The locator bracket on the torque tube that the tang on the bottom of the shifter housing sits in is not there!!I did find the plastic piece that goes on.Put it back togetherand the plastic piece helped to firm the shifter up. It's 100% better-no grind but I would like to know how to repair that perminantly. Is this a common problem?Having an engineering background I have some ideas of my own but help is always nice.
Thanks Guys for the help!:bash
 
Hey Garllo, looking at a new shifter and want to do it myself. How do you remove the boot? and did you have to remove the consul also? Would you have a copy of that procedure in the shop manual you could e mail me or tell me what the procedure is so I can align My shifter as well. Thanks Dr C5 Corvette
 
Hey Garllo, looking at a new shifter and want to do it myself. How do you remove the boot? and did you have to remove the consul also? Would you have a copy of that procedure in the shop manual you could e mail me or tell me what the procedure is so I can align My shifter as well. Thanks Dr C5 Corvette
This is easy to follow. Yes you have to remove the console. It looks daunting but it is actually pretty simple. Just remember that it is all plastic so just take your time and you wont have any problems!
http://www.c5forum.com/diy/hurstdiy.php

This shows a hurst install but it's the same proceedure regardless of the shifter brand. To align the shifter after you have installed the new one go to the following link. Again , easy proceedure. Also, take it for a ride before you put the console back. Good Luck!
http://www.rpmtransmissions.com/links.html
 
There’s something else to check while aligning the shifter. The pinch bolt on the shift rod actually has some play in it. If you pull that bolt all the way out, you'll see where the shift rod has a "half moon" cutout for the clamping bolt to slide past it. There is actually some play in there, get that sucker lined up perfectly by sighting down the hole then clamp the bolt down very carefully so as not to loose your alignment...

Having said that, it sounds like your synchro MAY have gone bad… But I would be very thorough about aligning it first.
 
This is easy to follow. Yes you have to remove the console. It looks daunting but it is actually pretty simple. Just remember that it is all plastic so just take your time and you wont have any problems!
http://www.c5forum.com/diy/hurstdiy.php

This shows a hurst install but it's the same proceedure regardless of the shifter brand. To align the shifter after you have installed the new one go to the following link. Again , easy proceedure. Also, take it for a ride before you put the console back. Good Luck!
http://www.rpmtransmissions.com/links.html

Thank you Garllo, very helpful articles :)
 

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