My son and I put the car back together last night. That was also a comedy of errors. The first thing I noticed was the passenger side runner, which won't go on with the fuel rail installed, was actually the driver's side runner.
I remove the bolts and lifted up the fuel rail, slid it out and the other one in. Retested for leaks and continued on. I had already bolted on the pipe that goes from the manifold to the intake (not sure what it's called) before I realized I needed it off in order to access the inside runner bolt on the back. It also took a little while to figure out where all of the runner bolts went. I also had not noticed that there is a difference between the runner bolts and the upper plenum bolts. The runner bolts have square shoulders and the upper plenum bolts have rounded shoulders. (remove the bolts that do not go there and continue on) :bash
Spent quite some time getting the driver's side valve cover back on. Note to self...If you think it would be easier to remove some connections, hoses, wires, etc...DO IT! You are much better off in the long run.
The upper plenum was not too difficult with the exception of getting the holes to line up while keeping the gasket from moving.
Rolled the car out of the garage to start it up (leak, fire, garage...not good). My son tries to start the car and I notice that the metal brake booster pipe has not been connected to the back of the plenum. What a PITB. It took 30 minutes and considerable sweat to get that flare nut started. My son then looks at me and says "Are you ready?". I tell him not really but try it anyway.
The starter turns for 3 or 4 seconds and the car fires. It stumbles a couple of times and then catches, purring like a kitten. I look for leaks at all the injectors and fuel line connections and see none.

Then I noticed coolant dripping from the bottom of the throttle body. Somehow I had wiggled that connection loose. I secure it and started the car again. Let it idle for 15 or 20 minutes while cleaning up the tools.
I get in the car and back out of the drive only to notice that the temperature guage is maxed out at 260. :confused There is no way the car is overheating that much on a cool night at 10:00 after only 20 minutes of idling. I shut the car off, and check the coolant temp sensor on the side of the block and the one under the plenum. All looks good and the car does not seem like it is more than just warm. I also notice gurgling coming from the coolant system. After a few minutes I restart it and the temp is about 200. We drive it around for a little while and the temp stays pretty steady at about 200-205. It must have sucked some air into the system when it was leaking while running. Will have to bleed the system later.
The good news is the car is running like butta. It idles smoothly with no surge. When coming to a stop it drops normally and seems like a brand new engine. The problem must have been the injectors all along.
Thanks for all the help and advice I have received on this site. I could not have done it without you all. Also, I bought the injectors from Jon at FIC. The price was nice ($170) and he was great. I called him one time over the weekend on his cell phone and he helped me without the slightest hesitation. If you need injectors he is the one to call!
I love it when a plan comes together. :L