My experience w/ a 1.125" front bar and 5/8" rear bar made the car close to neutral w/ a slight tendency for oversteer which worked well for me for autoX.
The setup you now have will give you near neutral handling while going back to stock will bring back the factory designed in understeer which will help prevent the rear end from trying to lead if you take a curve too hot. :)
If there's still a portion of the head of the rivet present, then you'll need to drill the rest out and drive the rivet out. Removing the rotor may require soaking w/ Kroil and some persuasion to get it off.
Post a pic if this doesn't work.
Also since this is an original rotor, mark its...
Another point is that the ball is not located in the vertical center of the mirror. So when you have it installed, rotate it so that the larger portion of the mirror is on top. That will actually enable you to see something besides just the rear fender hump. ;)
The door mirror brackets are held on by a threaded insert (Well-nut) that has a rubber sleeve that bulges as the screw tightens thereby clamping it in the fiberglass.
IIRC, you would have to remove the mirror glass and then figure out how to increase the tension (maybe by bending or finding new spring stock) on the flat, metal spring that's pressing against the ball that's connected to the mirror head. I think the spring is held by swaging the tubes which...
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