Recent content by HammerDown

I officially want to slap the crap out of the design engineer that put the fuse block on my 81 where it is. Unless you're 4' tall and can contort yourself like an octopus it is nearly impossible to access that SOB... especially the AC fuse😡

As I recall; most all aftermarket rag joint (steering couplers) and aftermarket-rebuilt steering boxes are of a very subpar quality so, is there any updates on vendors offering these two needed items in 'high quality' products? I remember a fella named 'Gary' was the king of steering box...

Update; Advance Auto gave me a discount for an out the door price of $245.00 (still a lot for a Chinese plastic aluminum rad) but again, the lifetime warranty and walk-in/walk-out saved me from any shipping drama. It's in a so far so good. Also... I took my original brass copper rad from the...

Been a while since I visited (hope all is well) I now need a radiator! Auto Zone, Advanced Auto etc are only offering the aluminum/plastic tank rads for my 81 ($260.00 w/lifetime replacement) and I actually have one of those in my 1988 F250 diesel for several years that has been working great...

I replaced my rear strut bushings with 'black poly' and...so far, no complaints. Reason...the OEM rubber bushings were quite thick however, every replacement rubber bushing had an inner and outer metal sleeve > this made the actual rubber part of the bushing very thin and in 'my' opinion a...

Thanks, Ant! I have an (S) so that's St Lewis The diagram I posted and my actual pic in post #17 are wired the same...except...the pressure switch is mounted in a different location. Ugh...I just want to get this trans back in!

Don't know where it was assembled...would a vin# offer that info? At this point I wish I has a 4-maual in my car! lol Gerry, prior I have googled (TH350c valve body pictures) and I have seen some three & two-wire lock-up solenoids and some valve bodies with one & two pressure switches as you...

Ahhh, yes I notice it now. What 'I' may have is a very limited set up because it was used for a short while just before they went to 700r4's. That's why I have the extra wire, I believe my car is set up for 700. (no second) gov(psi) switch as I mentioned because it's completely computer...

Garry, if I understand you correctly you're saying each one of my Grey connectors should go to (2) separate pressure switches that each have one terminal??? Thing is, my valve body only has a spot for (1) pressure switch and the switch has two terminals. I believe my lu solenoid is NOT self...

GerryLP, thanks for the reply and info. my valve body only has one pressure switch. In my above pics the two Plastic Tan plugs CONNECT to It's leads. Pressure switches are color coded, mine is silver. Bench tested it with a meter and compressed air and it's circuit closed so I guess it's ok.

Thanks fellas, it appears the correct two color-coded wires are going to their proper holes to the outside plug and then inside is two tan wires (one striped) going to the + solenoid and the other wire is going to one side of the pressure switch. So, with that I'll get my transmission back in...

Peter, my B is empty. Only A & D are used.

Thanks for that Ant :thumb this is what it 'looks like' I have... * green w/white stripe * orange w/black stripe * brown w/ black stripe My colors may be faded...maybe my orange w/black stripe is really 'pink/black' and my brown/black may actually be 'tan/black'? Green/white not used...good...

Hi Peter, local transmission shop tried to sell me a 700r4 for $2000! (heck with that) And while it will bolt to my engine the cross-member has to be different or modified and the drive shaft must be shortened...and the 700r4 uses some 35hp just to turn it...all three reasons make me not...

Thanks for the reply...so you have a wiring schematic for our 81...that's great! Yes, the outside plug fits blue socket nicely. May I ask, does you wiring diagram show any color codes for the wires? Would be nice to confirm the plug colors going to the correct location. Then my next thing is to...