C1 clutch spring
If I remember right, clamp one end hook in a vise, bend the spring and put a flat washer in a gap between the coils. Add several washers in the same manner to expand the spring enough to install it. First time you step on the clutch pedal all the washers will fall out.
I think I got mine from Paragon Reproductions.
I'm not saying that the yoke caused your problem, just that you may want to check to see if the Muncie conversion was done right while you are working in that area.
Something else to consider...
I could be all wrong on this, my memory is fading...
When you put a Muncie into a C1, aren't you supposed to change the angle of the driveline with shims or spacers at the tranny mount?
I think a different driveshaft yoke (shorter?) is recommended as well.
A friend found this and would like to know what it might fit. Is it an aftermarket accessory of some kind? The ring in the photo is not part of the keys, this is the only photo he has. Thanks
Looks great. :thumb
I think changing wheels and tires is kinda' like changing your shoes.
Some years I run blackwalls and stock wheel discs on my '66, some years redlines and rallys. Some year I'm going to buy me some classic American Racing wheels.
Can the ratio of 1st gear be checked by counting rotations of the crank balancer to rotations of the trans output shaft (with trans if first of course)?
"I truly despise the amount of clutch slip required to get this thing moving from rest with that 7.39 initial ratio!"
Just curious, can you elaborate on the clutch slip thing?
If the '61 hardtop is similar to a '59...
On the hardtop for my '59, the front weatherstrip appears to be riveted on. There are flat washers between the rivet heads and the rubber.
My hardtop was restored by a hardtop restoration company.
Hope this helps.
John, I think you just made my day! I have been chasing a tiny oil leak from the front of my L79 for a very long time and that may be the answer. I will try it when the '66 gets put away for the winter. Thank you.
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