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These are covered in detail by Doug Roe in "Rochester Carburetors, but here is the idea: The butterfly over the secondaries has a small metal tang on the end of the shaft that keeps it from fully opening. You do not need the full 800 CFM capability of the carb, but if you cut/ grind off part...

As Peter said, your car could be slipping into open loop at idle as you check dwell. Mine does that because the O2 sensor is farther away from the head than stock. But that should not make a "seat of the pants" difference in performance. What have you done to the carb besides adjustments? You...

That would be the cam I would pick if I went flat tappet. But with the oils being produced now, flat tappet cams are a risk. EPA regulations have mandated removal of heavy metal lubricants in the oil formulas. The oils have changed (and continue to change) without fanfare or warning, killing...

The ECM advances spark blindly from the base timing, so yes, changing base timing will make a difference. 6 BTDC is not for optimal performance. Around 12-14 will give you performance gains all around. After setting more advance, always listen for detonation on hard acceleration. If there is...

As for the transmission, a nice TH700r4 will put a smile on your face at the starting line and at the gas pump! As far as performance mods with the computer, the sky is the limit (almost). The beauty of our computer is it is stupid enough not to notice most mods at all, and even if you go...

As Peter said, the carb must have computer input to function properly. You can pick up a good stock replacement distributor at NAPA for about the same as a non-computer distributor, but have you done the diagnostics to be sure that is the problem? I always hate the "replace random parts till...

:D Everybody loves a happy ending! God bless, Sensei

The Dart S/Rs are good stock replacements that require no mods, but for just a bit more, I got a set of Dart Iron Eagles, a cast Iron performance head and I highly recommend them. They are also direct bolt on replacements. God bless, Sensei

This should probably be a new thread, but here goes. No, you do not need to replace the carb/ distributor (it is passing the sniffer test!) The automatic carb is fine. The only difference is that the automatic has a kickdown attachment for the transmission on the throttle linkage. The AIR pump...

The Hyperchip is fine. Keep it. Your O2 sensor is a critical component in the system, it must be working properly. Is this a general sluggishness with normal acceleration, or does it bog down like it is dying when you floor it? That is all fine. Expensive, but fine. You might want to test...

Disconnecting the battery will re-set the ECM, but may or may not fix the problem? God bless, Sensei

I can almost guarantee the problem is NOT the ECM, but you have to do some simple diagnostics to know where the problem is. Otherwise you are just guessing, which leads to a lot of frustration, a lot of wasted money and often without ever getting the real problem fixed. A commercially rebuilt...

I have built a few of these carbs for forum members but it seems, most, including the first one I started the thread about, were sold to people with "project" cars that never happened. This has been a bit frustrating for me because I wanted people to use the carb and report on it publicly...

They are available at most auto parts stores fairly cheap (about $100 if I recall correctly). But these computers are pretty reliable. I would not just go out and buy a new one without being sure that is the problem first. You might start by checking continuity between the appropriate...

Have you tried re-setting the computer by disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes? I would also look around in the area you worked on. God bless, Sensei

I did look at them and they did not look like they were out, but I did not try a wrench on them, I should check that. God bless, Sensei

I did not listen to the oil pan rails, but the oil pan and the engine block just above it were silent. God bless, Sensei

Okay, I need some ideas. I have not driven my car much for the last month or so because it has developed an extreme knock. It is very loud and solid, like it's about to throw a rod, but it only happens at very low RPMs. When it first starts, it will make this banging racket for about a second...

I agree

I'm using Goodyear Eagle GTIIs. They may not be the ultimate performance tire (speed rating, stickiness) but they last, look good and are reasonably priced (or at least they were about 50k miles / five years ago when I got them). God bless, Sensei