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you should be fine with stock stuff in the rear end. if you go with drag radials or slicks, you'll want to upgrade to Tom's Differentials 12 bolt set-up with 1480 u-joint kit. the set-up runs about $4500-5000. street tires are the relief valve of the drivetrain. you will not be able to load them...

yes, the classic way of building a 383 is to take a 350 block and put a 3.75" stroke crank (same as a small block 400) in it and over boring it 0.030". the stock crank has a 3.48" stroke. there is another way of building a 383 but very uncommon. you take a 400 small block and destroke it...

the suspension is an easy install. you'll have more problems getting the motor spec'ed and installed. don't let that discourage you on the motor though! you can easily install the suspension in about 12 hours of getting after it with a good tool supply. i jacked around on mine while putting it...

i second the pickle fork, just make sure the throat is as narrow as possible to avoid damaging the valve. you can also try putting one sledge on the back side and hitting with the control arm with a second, in a pinching motion to flex the control arm and squirt the tapered valve stem out. i've...

i'll bet you with 10 to 1 odds that you have 882 casting heads. if so, they are junk. the castings are super thin and do not lend themselves to porting or valve grinding without the chance of cracking. you can get some aftermarket heads that will flow better for less money than a port and valve...

Ed, have you looked at the Vette Brakes' performance plus suspension system?? it runs $2300-2400. it has everything to replace your suspension from the frame down. you can adjust the spring rate to suit your needs without buying new stuff. i have the kit on mine and love it. it is a whole new...

does your thermostat have a small by-pass hole?? i have run into problems with friends' cars that over cool and shut the thermostat highway speeds. this leads to cold (140-150* ish) water sitting around the t-stat and heat to build in the heads where most guage sensors are. what you end up...

i would go with a Dewitt's aluminum radiator and electric fan kit. they are super sweet and truely a direct bolt-in replacement that will easily cool your motor. it will also give you lots more room up front to clear the big block. what tires are you planning on running?? traction, hard launches...

i would reinstall the heads and do a compression test. if the cylinders are low, do a leak down test before pulling the bottom end apart. there are lots of tests that can be done before pulling anything apart on a motor in order to narrow down your problem. if #6 and #8 are oily, did you look at...

when's the last time you changed your tranny filter?? also is your idle rpm under 1000?? checking the vac lines to the modulator is always a good idea as stated.

check out mcspeed.com for the electric headlight conversion. it is a pretty nice system. thinking of getting one myself.

you can use pipe plugs. i had brass ones in mine for a couple years before swapping to headers.

i may be able to shead a little light on a couple questions you have. first off is the carb. i have been playing with my Demon for five years and learned a loads as of lately thanks to an oxygen sensor. the Demons come from the factory set really rich, they are more for max power and not street...

John, what are your rear gears?? and what is your motor configuration?? mainly need cam profile (duration at 0.050" lift would be great), heads, intake and compression ratio. also do you plan on running drag radials or regular street tires?? looking for smoke or stick??

you need to balance your entire set-up. look at vehicle weight, gear ratio, tranny, tire size, engine configuration, cam profile, intended use, converter effecency and driving style. big cams need a big stall converter to really perform. unfortunately big stalls do not like street driving...

if your valve seals were leaking, it would puff blue right away when cold and go away pretty quick. if your intake gaskets leak, the oil splashing on the bottom of the intake takes a little time to creep to the intake ports or heat riser port. see if there is oil in the heat riser tube between...

sounds like your intake gaskets are going south. i would pull the intake and replace them. it is pretty easy to do, and does not cost much in parts. if you can change valve stem seals, you can easily change an intake. do not use the little bridge gaskets in front and back of the intake when...

check that your grounds are good. C3's are notorious for bad grounds. since the resto, you most likely have paint between the ground wire and the frame. you can run a large wire (10 gauge or so) between the dash and battery negative for a good ground as a test. DC circuits need both legs to work...

why not put some Dynomax ultra flow stainless muffs on never have to worry about your exhaust ever again?? you can get the muff through Summit or Jegs for $100 each. they look and sound great.

it sounds like your mechanic is using an oxygen sensor to set the idle air/fuel mixture. which is a very good way to tune and most likely the reason for letting the cats cool. cats mess with 02 sensor readings, usually giving a faulse lean reading. the colder the cat, the less they effect the...