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E-mail me a request to the address provided above. Lars

I have some papers that will help you out on your setup: My "Holley Carb Paper," "BG Carb Setup" and "BG Carb Installation" papers go over some of the signficant setup steps to get the carb running right. Also, be sure to get the timing set right as outlined in my timing paper: "90% of all carb...

The dyno testing the I have done, and duplicated by dyno testing done by Cliff Ruggles, shows the Edelbrock carbs (re-pops of the old Carter AFB) to be the worst choice for performance. If you need a cheap carb just to get a car running, with little setup hassle, get the Edelbrock. If you want...

That trailer is one of the best "tools" I have ever bought, and it has seen some use.... I actually bought it new about 25 years ago, and it has been across the country in every direction. All my kids' cars have been rescued on that trailer at least a couple of times each, and it has hauled...

You need to fabricate a 12-gauge wire, using whatever color you think is pretty, with a female spade on the end (The wire used on factory HEI was red, but if you can find one with polka dots, I'd do it..). Plug it into your distributor on the "BAT" terminal. Run the other end to your fusebox to...

You know, RD1, as we get older, we tend to appreciate the comforts in life: A fast car, a comfortable garage and a nicely stocked bar... :beer

The engine is back in the workshop and ready for pickup - The bar is stocked, and the cars are ready to drive... as Chuck Yeager would say in "The Right Stuff," .."Flying and Drinking and Drinking and Driving..." Not that we would ever do such a thing, of course. Denver PD Officer: "Now...

It's going in a 4-speed 71 Vette - should feel pretty strong!

Results of the dyno testing can be found in the post, "383 Dyno Results." Click here: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/c3-technical-performance/125743-383-dyno-results.html#post1060420 Lars

The results from the dyno testing of a 350-based 383 small block are in – the engine is still warm from the dyno runs… Here’s what we tested: GM 350 block .030” over (oil pan rails notched) with an Eagle stroker crank making 383 cubic inches Eagle “H” beam rods with flat top JE Sportsman...

You must think I sit in the house watching 2-1/2 Men in my spare time... If you don't pound on my garage door or come in the back door, you won't get any response from me, either. I never thought to knock on your front door... I wouldn't be coming over to visit your wife. I was going to pound on...

I'll make sure you know about the post, even if I have to send you a note or come pound on your door (gawd, this Forum is so slow that if you check in once a week you'll see the latest post still at the top of the list...) Lars

I'll be sure to post up photos of the run as well as numbers achieved from each combination. The back-to-back header size comparision and the spacer runs should be interesting. The spacer/header changes may require some jetting changes to keep the A/F ratio optimum. I'll nail down the best total...

Honor, glamour, and hearty slaps on the back... :beer

That was back when the heads were built in New Zealand under the original Pro Topline label. They're now machined and assembled in the US under the RHS (Racing Head Service) brand and sold by CompCams - the quality issues have been resolved, and the heads are very good. I've installed them on...

1968 - 1974 (early) used a single-wire door jamb switch (same as C2 Vettes). The switch grounded through the switch body and into the metal door jamb, which should be grounded. The courtesy lights always have power, and turn on when the door switch(es) close and complete the ground to the jamb...

No takers on the numbers guess, eh? Here's my guess: 420hp/440 lb/ft. It's a pretty mild engine, and it idles smoothly at 700 rpm... But I'm thinking that torque will be all-in at about 3500 rpm, making this a fantastic street engine. Let's see how far off I am... :beer

Just finished building up another small block, and it's going on the dyno, as usual... This time it's a little 383, based on a stock-block 350 with an Eagle crank, 6" H-Beam rods, JE pistons, Pro-Topline heads, CompCams hydraulic roller and a BG Demon 750 mechanical secondary carb. On the dyno...

Thanks, John - very kind of you to say. Your contributions are in the car with the placement of the rear deck emblem and the dash installation sequence: Having that sequence right made the entire dash/harness/cluster installation a piece of cake. If I ever have to take the instrument cluster...

Hib's numbers are the correct numbers. GM's intent is to have just enough free play at the top of the pedal to assure that the clutch fork is not riding on the throwout bearing when the clutch is not depressed. Any freeplay beyond a "no-touch" setting is superfluous for this objective. Adding...