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Thanks for the reply Hib. All the vacuum hoses check good. New gaskets in the throttle body. There was a leak at the booster for the power brakes but that was fixed last week. Is it possible that the IAC is not functioning properly without showing a code?

:thumbYou have a code in your computer telling you something is malfunctioning. You will need to pull any codes from the plug on the bottom of the dash on the drivers side. Do you have a Factory Service Mamual?

Today I removed my throttle body and cleaned it. Idles much smoother now. It still seem to idle too high to me, about 850 rpm's. Also when stopping it idles at about 1200 rpm's until coming to a complete stop. Stick shift. Is this normal?

Yep it is the OEM TPS. Throttle body didn't look that dirty but the IAC pintle was loaded up. It's all back together and ildes better than ever.

Today I decided to clean my throttle body and re-calibrate the TPS and IAC. Started with the FSM for info and lo and behold it only shows a Vin "J" TB and mine is a Vin"P". They are totally different. Can't find any detailed posts describing how to make these adjustments...;help

Ebay has some great deals on new upholstery. I did mine last fall with leather and they look like new. It helps to get good hog rings and pliers. Foam Factory has the right ones. They also have padding to fill in where your foam is worn out.

If you have a cloged cat you will have low vacuum. Put a gage on it and see how it reads. You may also have cracked a plug during installation. If one cylinder is not firing you are pouring raw gas into the exhaust. This will cause your computer to lean out that bank of injectors and this...

Can't help you there. Never took off the pad.

Pull the sending unit back out and check the wiring. Especially the ground.

If it doesn't peel off easily try using a heat gun. The only glue I found that works to put it back on is 3M.

You can buy an inexpensive vacuum pump at Harbor Freight. I think they are abou $15.

Tune it up yourself. Plugs and wires are only about $100. #8 plug was the most difficult for me but the whole job only took about an hour and a half. Why replace the water pump if it aint broke??? Cap and rotor aren't difficult either.

I am thinking about removing my smog pump and installing long tube headers om my 92 LT1. Has anyone done this? What do I need to know? Will removing the smog pump cause ECM issues? Any info will be appreciated.

Look on the drivers side door by the latch. There is a sticker with different pressure ratings depending on what size and rating of tire you are running.

I know this might sound dumb but here goes. Are the bolts still in place but out of sight. When you loosen them they dont fall out, they stay inside the hole. With the top off take your wrench and push up on the bolt like you were going to thighten it. If the bolts that mount the tabs to the...

I ask myself that all the time...I have put a lot of time and effort into making my 92 look and run great. It is a great ride. I would have to keep it even if I got a new one!!

Sounds like you have an air bubble in the left caliper. Try bleeding it out.

Probably not. I would be looking for a short. Start by disconnecting the cigarette lighter and see if the problem goes away.

One of the greatest benefits of Synthetic oil is when the engine first starts up. It has consistant lubricating qualities throughout a wide range of temperatures. Petroleum oil does not lubricate thoroughly until it warms up. Dyno testing snowmobile engines back in the late 70's when...

If it was mine I would remove the valve covers & sandblast them then repaint.