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Complete crap.

Pay close attention to what I've written here. You want power, spend some money. You should start next with Hooker or TPiS longtube headers, then consider AS&M runners and a BigMouth Base.

It will not give a noticable power gain, but the coolant not being in the TB allows the plenum and TB to remain COOLER, which helps prevent heat soak of the intake which kills the L98's power. All you need to do is remove the coolant hoses from either side of the throttle body and mate them...

The 1-piece rear main seal is for ALL 1986 Corvettes, there are no exceptions. No holdovers from 85. The 624 iron heads are the same as used in 84-85. Aluminum heads started in late 86, at VIN 19130 for coupes, and all convertibles have them. It is the same head used in 87, '128.

Yeah ive been thinking hard about replacing my entire system with something better and louder to compensate for the exhaust work thats nearly done. But I dont really want to because to do it right I would need to do it myself, and I also dont want to spend the $1000 or so to redo everything...

84-86 have 2026rpm TC stock. Later years have the 1500rpm one.

Factory is already 2000 in 86. If you liked it, then put another in. I would spend the money on a tranny cooler.

Remove the distributor cap, its underneath. It looks like a small fuel filter, cylindrical.

Yes.

Turning on AC and such to bring temps down may work in town, but it will not work on the highway, the fans are shut off at speed because fans are detrimental to cooling once you get moving.

I would use a 60/40 water/coolant mix in that area, you dont need the 50-50 unless you live in a colder climate. I believe you also need to flush the whole system and especially be sure to burp the engine, you may have air trapped inside.

The reason LT and LS engines run from the start with synthetic is due to the tighter production tolerances than the Gen I SBC, they dont get started off with dino oil. The LS did initially have oil burn problems due to the ring material, and the Z06 nearly always has, but otherwise that problem...

Replace both relays, they are actually the same part. If the code comes back, then its the MAF itself (unless a wire has come loose). Do not buy aftermarket MAFs like Granatelli, just find a Bosch or Delco unit from wherever you can get it cheapest, best is going to be about $250.

ZR1 fronts will fit a regular 90 fine. Rears will not, they'll stick out, because the ZR1 rear rim has a 36.5mm offset and the 90 will need a 50mm offset. Part of the suspension geometry changes in 88 included a change in wheel offset. Although the rear parts off a 88-96 can be put into a 84-87...

I dont know of anyone who makes a 88-90 rim in 17x11 for the rear, you would need to switch to ZR1 rims. And you would need 50mm offset, like the Grand Sport rear rim, not like the actual ZR1 rim which is 38mm.

I've run it before, never a problem. Bumps up pressure a bit.

I would expect no gain at all. Stock flows more cfm than the engine can ever use anyway.

If I wasnt so lazy I'd have cleaned off my evap by now as well, probably why my AC still sucks.

You will need adapter brackets for it to fit. There are 3 different tops, 84-86E, 86L-88, 89-96. So no, you cant just stick it on there.

Heater core, sounds like. Lots of fun to replace it too.