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It was my understanding that the stock crossmember could be used. And you eliminate the small bracket that is used for the th350. The 400 and the 200r4 are real close in the mount area.

Well you have two choices 200r4 or 700r4. The 4l80e is a computer controlled unit. The 200 is pretty much a bolt in. Where as the 700 need to hve the driveshaft shortened. And a redesigned crossmember. I am going with the 200 in my 77. Check www.bowtieoverdrives.com They have some information...

Well if it's automatic the pedals and clutch linkage will have to be installed. But if I were you a Tremc 5 spd is the way to go. I have one in my 73 and you can drive it all day and not get tired of it. My 77 I have plans on a 200r4 for the spring building the trans now. I am a fan of...

A vacuum hose is connected to the servo and then to a vac source at the intake manifold at the t fitting.

Mine match the doors and alarm. Try Paragon if you have the key code numbers, they might be able to send you a match.

Take it to a locksmith that's what I did

Looks Great. But from a safety stand point I don't trust that inline fuel filter. I cringe, when I don't see a solid steel fuel line from pump to carb.

I have slotted on my 73 and cross drilled and slotted on the 77. The slots help expell the brake dust away from the center of the hub. Other than that I don't know what to tell you.

I wouldn't drive it, I would change it.

They are directional rotors. The arc should run in the direction of the wheel. If that helps you.

At the orange box Jump the pink and purple see if it starts. This was 74 only

Disconnet the clutch rod under under the brake booster. Check for power when you depress the clutch. Should be two screws holding the safety switch. Loosen and rotate until you have power in and out of the switch. Sometimes you can just bend the rod to get the adjustment.

Just check the purple wire runs from the starter to the neutral safety and then ignition switch. Check that

Ignition switch at the base of the column bad, or in need of adjustment? You know the run part of the switch is good cause you jumped at the starter. And the car ran, but the start function is not

Pink is ignition 12v and brown is the signal from the distributor. Just a wild guess I'd say the tach board is bad. If you have a tach/dwell meter hook up the tach to the filter if it works chances are it the tach board.

Going on on 5 years with my 383, Eagle rotating assembly, 9.7 1. retrofit speed pro hyd roller, edelbrock rpm heads. And the tremec 5 spd. Does what I want it to do. Very impressed how it turned out

Just finished the window in my 73. Used 6/32x1/2 in the bottom window guide. Removed the deck grilles and was a ble to put an anchor plate below that I drilled and tapped. The guide pin hole was already there. The upper latches I had to drill the holes 1/4 and used J-nuts for the top latches...

Thanks that helps me alot

Sorry if I posted some wrong information. The parts manuals have known to be wrong. I got a number six screw it fits the anchor plate. I believe a J-nut was also used to anchor the plates. Trying to install the removable in my 73.

I looked in my parts manuals it calls for a 10/24x 1/2. Going through this myself. However I just checked the repo mount plate and the 10/24 is to big going to try an 8/32. I am guessing the originals were 10/24