Muscles.... I have Delta 50's on mine and they tuck up in the original holes so perfect you think they are stock; until.................. you fire it up. The outlet's bend exactly like the OEM mufflers.
nut :D
I have Delta 50's on my '81. The sound is awesome and the muffler is slightly smaller than regular Flows and installed they look almost stock. The popping sound is from the inbalance in pipe lengths if one has converted to true dual exhausts (and does not have an H-Pipe installed). An H-pipe...
They're are a bit of a PITA to mess with. But I have the same "squeak" from time to time in the left rear wheel and it's usually just some oxidation on the rotor especially if it sits for a while or rains.
......... nut
Chuck......... Carlisle is only a few months away and you are driving close like me. I'd wait and see what you can find at Carlisle. I'd almost guarantee you'll find one or certainly find someone that knows how to repair one.
Just a suggestion............. nut
Clark..... I'm not aware of any aftermarked software that will interface with our ECM's. By todays standards the ECM is a dinosaur and barely capable of running the functions it does do.
........ nut
tot....... make ABSOLUTELY sure it's a OEM hose (i.e. as in correct SHAPE) and be sure your fan belts are tightened right. I sawed through my upper rad hose once running some twerp in a ricer only to find the belt was loose enough under that load to hit the bottom of the hose. Big arse...
wonk........ the transducer is shot. Install a cable from the speedo to the tranny bypassing the transducer and your troubles will be over (but you won't have a cruise control either). Your choice.
(When) I tried doing what you're going through I changed out the transducer about every other...
Bob..... once a car is registered Historic, Classic or Street Rod it can be altered to whatever the owner chooses; at least in the People's Republic of MD which has one of the strictest safety and emissions laws on the books. Once you have these registrations the Fed's can't do a thing about...
Barry.... unless you have a lot of free time and space; by the time you transported, cleaned up, stripped, cataloged then dumped the remaining flotsom; then......... repacked, hauled the parts to (wherever) to sell and assuming you could sell everything salvagable I doubt you'd get $1600 out of...
You need to fix that wire. The crimp has now jeopardized the integrity of the wire and jacket. You will likely have another failure again from shock and vibration either with a broken wire or a short. If you have the tools I would cut the wire out and replace with a new wire the same gauge...
Clark.... I guarantee it's the long cable from the cruise control transducer to the tranny. And most likely you also have a bad tranducer too. When the transducer gets worn the wheel inside will start to bind up and eventually snaps the inner wire in the long speedo cable. I finally gave up...
It drove me nuts (excuse the expression); drove the wife nuts thinking something was going to come flying off at 75mph and I'll admit that thought crossed my mind a couple times too. :L Drove it about 100 miles this past weekend w/o a peep so I'm convinced that was it.
....... nut
snk....... glad that's all it was. I too was trying to find a "tinkling" sound for weeks and this afternoon I tracked it down to a bunch of loose long neck sockets in my tool bag. Talk about feel like an idiot. I almost went out and bought all new U-joints for the drive shaft. I was...
Chas..... I doubt the A/C compressor has anything to do with your blower circuitry. A quick check at the schematic in your assembly manual should help. Could be something as simple as a fuse or a contact on the rotary wheel switch. Pesky suckers. Do you store at home or in a storage locale...
I've had them on my '81 for over '15 years along with the 330lb monospring from VBP. Great combo. Very reasonable cost. I love Tire rack too.
......... nut
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