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Oooohhhh; I went ahead and put a lock washer on the bolt to make it tighter. I wonder what the reasoning is to having it so loose ? I took it for an extended drive and it seemed fine (and it didn't leak !!). Re-torqued all the bolts, so I REALLY don't want to take this thing all apart again to...

Here we go again: I thought this was going to be easy, but a little messy; it's one but not the other. Pulling and replacing the pan on my '71 TH400. Got the old pan off; a little messy, but not too bad (who was the genius at GM who decided not to put a drain plug in the pan to save a couple of...

Bill81, I get that - that's why I'm holding on to my '59 ! I just want a car that I can pretty much stick the key in and go 1000 miles if I want to in relative comfort and decent gas mileage. Neither the '59 nor the '71 give that to me.

Tom, sorry for the late reply - got tied up with other issues. So... the test drive went fine - have all speeds for the fan and it cools “OK”; I don’t think it will ever cool as well as the R-12, but what are you going to do. Still waiting on my pan for the auto trans. Hopefully that will be a...

So here's where I am today: Things are looking up ! I jumped the two 12 ga wires at the relay and the blower motor spooled right up to full speed - great ! Then I disconnected the "melted mess" from the plug that goes I don't know where (I think it might have originally gone to the A/C...

Tom, The plot thickens !! Take a look at this: I received my new relay and resistor today and I was going to take your advice and jump the two wires that you suggested to see what, if anything, would happen. So I pull the relay off the A/C box and this is what I find. Someone has positioned the...

Tom, Just tobe sure so I don't blow something up or set something on fire: You mean the RELAY that's on the side of the A/C box and NOT the resistor that I just pulled out, correct ? And I'm still trying to find out what that "melted mess" is; I've got to wait until I can get a friend over here...

OK, now I'm really at a loss. I finally figured out how to get the resistor out: One screw was hidden under the ww actuator door and a wiring harness clip and the other screw was hidden under what I can only describe as dried out and/or melted plastic or caulk. I had to chip away at it with a...

DG, Tom, Thanks ! I thought that might be it. But how do i get the resistor out of there ? Do I just pull on it or do I have to open up the A/C box ? There don't appear to be any screws holding it down. And while I was fishing around I found this thing all taped up and stuffed under door...

DG, Thanks for the part number. I must need a new catalog, because this P/N is not in my book. The other thing is I cannot see this thing anywhere on my car. There is something that looks more like a horn relay on the side of the A/C box toward the engine, but I think that's the Blower Motor...

Ok ….. I like the idea that its the resistor. However, I'm looking through the Corvette Central catalog and I see P/N 453048 for an "A/C Blower Motor Resistor" for a '68 and P/N 453044 for an "A/C Blower Motor Resistor (on top of A/C box)" for a '72 - '82, but nothing for '69 through '71 ...

Bill, I replaced both the underhood and under dash fuses yesterday; both were somewhat corroded with the under dash fuse being worse. There is definitely improvement, but the fan still does not seem to have the "high" speed. Any thoughts ? I'm going to order a new trans pan and gasket soon and...

Bill, Thanks for the response ! Fan Switch: I probably should have noted that this is the 3rd or 4th fan switch I've installed in this car. The've all had the same problem except the original that I replaced when it "died". One of them actually looked like it was burned and about to catch fire...

I have a '71, base motor, Automatic, PS, PB and A/C. Problem #1 I am having issues with the fan motor switch on the console: It seems to have only one speed (low) no matter where I position the switch, so it doesn't really cool the car down. It is also difficult to move the switch lever. More...

If I were you I would also replace the distributor cap and plug wires and check the plugs. I assume you've already checked the timing. Another possibility is old gas gumming up the insides of the carbs. Good luck !

Either that or the block has been decked. I cant help you with the crank number. My guess is its going to be very hard to prove that it is in fact a Corvette motor. However, as long as you are up front with any future buyer you can now stamp the block with any thing you want from an early base...

Look on the front passenger side pad on the block where the head bolts on- there will be a series of letters/numbers that you can de-code that will tell you where and when the motor was built as well as the horsepower. If it starts with an "F" it was built and Flint and MAY be a Corvette motor...

These items have been SOLD: Intake Manifold, Steering Column/Box, Valve Covers, Upper Windshield Trim, Rally Caps, Turn Signal Housings, Turn Signal Canceling Cam, Turn Signal Lever. Thanks

For Sale: 58-61 2x4 Intake Manifols (cast # 3739653) very good condition; Corvette aluminum Valve Covers (with casting flaw) good condition; Upper Windshield Moulding (no sun visors) very good condition); two (2) Turn Signal Housings (complete with wiring and cancelling switches), (1) original...

I've been toying (really wanting to) with the idea of putting a Jim Meyer IFS under the '59. Just waiting for the boss to let me spend the $$$. However, in a recent issue of Vette magazine I saw an ad for an IFS kit from an outfit in North Carolina called "Studley's Independent Rods". It looks...