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I got mine from a guy out in AZ ... Ed Salinas. I've heard he isn't selling them anymore though. I saw very similar brackets at this site yesterday ... www.car-vette.com maybe they could help out. :w G

I agree with Junk. My old Dodge pickup had a bad leak in the PS assy. I was using almost a bottle of PS fluid a month. I put one bottle of Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak in back in Nov. and haven't had any problems so far, fluid level is still good and the leak is gone. Good Stuff. :w G

I had my LT4 dynoed back in April. I am going to get it re-dynoed next week now that I've done some mods. I talked to the dyno shop and asked them why the first dyno was graphed as HP and TQ vs speed and not RPM. I was told they could not find a tach signal. I have searched the FSM and can't...

They work in conjunction with each other. Do you have C68 (Electronic HVAC controls) or the Manual controls? On the C68 system it should be the button to the right of the fan speed controls. Right uppermost button. :w G

It's in the back of the car near the realese mechanism. Remove the rear most trim panel (the black one nearest the window) it should be on the passenger side. :w G

Probabally around $2,000 or so. You need a complete D44 with the "batwing" (its the cover and support for the diff) the D36 has one less cover bolt and the two are NOT interchangeable. You will also need a C-Beam and driveshaft from a manual car (the auto's have longer pieces). The driveshaft...

Coolio I had a feeling you were looking at it bass ackwards. Glad to be of assistance. :w G

AAHH HA! When installed correctly and looking from the front of the engine to the rear the tensioner pulley should be at 7 o'clock roughly. It needs to rotate CLOCKWISE to about 9 o'clock (up towards the WP and MAF) to compress the spring. Yes you are correct ... righty tighty, lefty loosie...

I just went back and looked at your pics. There may have been a change in the tensioners between '93 and '96. Yours has ribs, mine is smooth. Maybe the belt routing is different also. :confused My belt is routed the same as is shown in your belt routing diagram posted earlier. Sorry I...

Don't use the belt tool .... I don't believe it has a 5/8" box end wrench on the end. The ones I've seen have a 1/2" square drive ( I think I see it in the pics). The big spring on the mount part is what you are trying to compress. The bolt in the middle of the tensioner is where the 5/8" box...

5/8" "short" socket & Breaker bar What everyone else has posted is correct ... except in the case of the LT1/4. I just changed my belt when I installed a new waterpump. When I saw your pics I thought something was wrong ... I went and checked my LT4 and it is the same. The trick is getting a...

Those still have plenty of tread and ride very well also. The wheels were in such good shape I figured I would store the OEM's and outfit her with 11" out back. Got the wheels and tires as a set but I'm happy with them so far. :w G

I was thinking the same thing Bob. Good to see you are still around. I'm taking real good care of the Z15. Thanks again. :w G

I've got Summitomos also. For the price they seem to be a very good tire. Very sticky and good wet traction. Only had them on for about 3K miles but they seem to be holding up very well. I think the Tirerack has them for $77 front (275/40R17) and $107 rear (315/35R17). They weren't my first...

Congrats on the CE ... they all are a blast to drive. :Rowdy I agree with lt4man ... my CE LT4 dynoed at 308 RWHP / 314 RWTQ using the 15% generally associated with manual drivetrain loss thats 354 HP / 361 TQ at the flywheel. This is on a "stock" LT4 ... only mod was muffler elims. I've...

I used an Optima Red top in my '90. It seems like it was a 28, for some reason. It fit alright, albeit one of the previous owners "modified" the factory mount. The lip of the tray was ground down a bit. The factory hold down kept it in place. The one issue I had was with the top mount posts...

I knew there was an article somewhere ... just couldn't remember where. Thanks Dougs91 :w

When I did mine I pulled the whole assy. The motor is a PITA to get out, and disassembly needs to be done with a vise to press the shaft out. Do a search for headlight motor. There have been posts that show the procedure, but I think they were actually links elsewhere. Sorry I can't be of...

Good to hear. This place is great for bouncing ideas / troubleshooting help. Lots of really knowledgeable folks round here. BTW welcome to :CAC Don't forget to wave. :w

On the last car the switch went bad, it's almost an integral part of the shifter. When I did the trans I put in a new shifter. Also if any of the cables are mis-adjusted the switch won't make contact. There is one for the trans and one for the steering lock. There was a Tech Bulletin about...