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Where are you getting the ECM calibration for your project?

The car has gotten "loose" under power out of turns because you greatly increased the rear spring rate without changing anything in the front. You'd have been better to select a rear spring rate closer to what you had before or...change springs and bars to a package that works well together.

You might be better off updating your supercharger to the '17-'19 "Big Lid" configuration. There's a pretty significant improvement in charge air cooling with that. The problems with methanol injection for a high-performance street car are: Cost Installation work Tuning Short duration solution...

When you say "birdcage", if you mean the metal structure which surrounded the cockpit and bolted to the frame of a '63-'67 and '68-'82, then the '84-'96 C4 did not have anything like that. The C4 used what GM called a "uniframe" which was not only a structure surrounding the cockpit, but also...

"Generations" of Corvettes, and other vehicles for that matter, are considered "changed" when there is a "platform" change-over. A car's "platform" is its basic structure. In the case of the 53-62 "C1" Corvette which was body on frame construction, its basic structure was a combination of the...

If better tread life is the goal, I'd go for -02.5 front camber and -05 camber in the rear.

Front Caster is 7.4° ±0.6° Front Camber is -0.6° L and -0.9° R ±0.6° Front Toe is 0.1° ±0.2° Rear Camber is -1.1° Rear Toe is 0° ±0.2° For street use only, you may find the camber settings too aggressive

If you smell coolant when the heater or A/C is running, you may have a leak in your heater core.

There are two sets of alignment specifications. One for FE1, FE2, FE3 and FE4 and a second set for FE5 and FE6? What suspension is on your car?

Hot oil and hot coolant spell quite different. Which do you have?

At 12.5, the battery is a little low. Should be 12.6-12.8, depending on battery condition and when last charged. Check the cleanliness of the battery connections. Check that ground connection. Check the connection at the starter. Sometimes, there's a cable between the frame and the engine...

Cool photo of you and Jim Hall.

In playing that video, I don't hear anything unusual, but then, your ears might be better than your smartphone's mic. Most phones don't record sound very well. Plus, the recording never dwelled at any one location for very long. Finally, if you wanted a really quiet engine, ie: no valve noise...

When you say turn "briskly" is that any turn at high speed or a sharp turn at slower speed? This "pop", when you hear it do you also feel anything?

I say we give Rob a "happy face" award for explaining Chevrolet confusing manner in which it advises (to not advises, as the case might be) customers as to order status.

This has become even more confusing as you're posting in two different places. Reading the OP in your other thread, indeed, you have a manual not an automatic.

Apparently, your problem is unrelated to engine controls. Is this the engine running out of fuel or the car's electrical system loosing power? I would start looking at the battery along with battery cables, large wires that feed the fuse blocks. Also, look at chassis grounds. Finally, use...

Yes. I should add that pulling the trans is a difficult, but not impossible, job for a DIY.

If you are working on the car yourself, use your Haynes book to line your hatbox and then purchase a Factory Service Manual for your model year. Haynes manuals for Corvettes are woefully inadequate in detailed information and have a lot of inaccurate information. There is no "red indicator"...

Have you done the fuel pressure tests in the Factory Service Manual?