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:cry Thats just awful man. I could only imagine how that would feel if it were my Vette. Keep us up to date with your restoration, and good luck.

I was wondering the same thing. I currently have true duals, no cats, and glasspacks at the end on my 1980 L82, but I get too much popping on deceleration. I was trying to decide between chambered exhaust system or side pipes.

Looks amazing ZAL, you just helped me make up my mind. I was leaning towards 15x8 Torq Thrust IIs but I wasnt sure. How did you lower the rearend? Ive done all my suspension over, and in the rear I did a new composite monospring with all new mounts and KYB shocks, and the front has new coil...

Sorry guys I meant to put this link in. This is the builder I was looking at, http://www.tandlengines.com/Street_Engines/Chevrolet_SB/chevrolet_sb.html. They have their 383 Strokers for sale on Ebay.

Okay, I made a post a while back trying to get input on what kind of motor I should drop in after taking out the original. Im just 100% sure Im going to go with a 383 stroker. I wanted to see what everyone thought about this, and if anybody had any experience with one. One of my main concerns...

Get the alignment checked, it sounds like it could be an alignment problem so I would start with that because it is a fairly simple fix. Im sure you guys already know this, but there is 3 parts to an alignment. Toe, Camber, and Caster. Toe is basically the angle in which each wheel is aiming...

Would the dented shaft have caused the bent flange? Or am I okay to keep using the dented shaft? Luckily I havent had any caps pop off yet, its just the needle bearings are getting demolished.

How do you tighten up slack in the box? I know you adjust the lash nut, but Im not sure of the excact method. By the way the box is in my 1980 L82. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Thanks for your input. Yah Im using Spicer (with grease fittings). I was thinking I might need the heavy duty non-greasable U joints, but yah Ill definitely check the flange. Which style do you use, and what gears do you have? Do you think a dented half shaft could cause a problem?

Okay, I put my new 3.70 rearend in back in June, along with 4 new Ujoints. Since then I have replaced the Left Outter Joint 4 more times! I do not know why this particular joint keeps giving out. My only guess is I need to put in Severe Duty U-Joints. Any Input? Thanks, 80VetteL82

yah thats what Im going to do

hahahaha o alright thanks.

yah I knew it was either 77 or 78. I was just wondering why it would be orange underneath. I havent bothered checking the numbers cause I was pretty sure it was all original, but now Ill have to check. Now that I think about it Im not 100% sure it WAS the block...there is a possibility it was...

sorry for my ignorance here, but what is a brass drift and BFH Steve?

Okay so I know motors older than 78? were orange, and 78 and newer were blue....my question is, while I was under my car the other day I noticed a spot on the block where the blue paint was peeling. Underneath the blue paint was orange!? Is this typical? :confused Thanks for your input...

Okay I just bought and installed a new rearend and side yokes. I have the core differential with the old side yokes still in it. The problem is I need to send the yokes to one company and the diff. to another, but I cant get the yokes out of the old differential. I got the E-clips off, but the...

yah I wouldnt want the fiberglass one.

yah thats going to suck. I think its like 300 or 400 for a fiberglass nose, and 500 for a urethane one. Plus Ive heard theyre a PAIN to install. I could use a rear bumper too. Its got the notorious wave, because they didnt start using the stress bar in the rear spoiler until 1981 :( O well.

i see. It might just be easier to buy a new nose.

alright so if my fiberglass had indeed been exposed to the sun, and thats what is causing the bubbling, how should I go about fixing it?