Search results

A good inexpensive product is sold my you large building supply stores, here it is sold my home depo. It is Duct insulation. It is about 1/8 to 3/16 thick, sell sticking, up to 12 inches wide and is used on furnaces to insulate them. I 1st used dynamate then covered that is this duct insulation.

Not really. There was one spot where they had a releif for a bolt and the wal was thin in this spot. It is really easy for a good welder to add material on the outside, Nice neat beads of add on wall thickness and then back to grinding on the inside of the port. Never bothered me and the fix...

This is the universal rad

I ran the general rad without a problem The only thing that need help was the lower rad hose. I built a metal elbow and used 2 pieces of rad hose to make up the hose. For the top I was able to find one that fit perfectly. If the rad is the same dimensions as the stock rad it will clear the hood.

Brodix are noted for good castings but I had to spend one week per head working long hours each day to get them to a place where I could accept them. In the raw state I think they are pretty rough. I feel Dart and Pro flow do better jobs right out of the box. I spent a total of 3 weeks on the...

But I use them. I believe it ties the block and heads together better then bolts. It is a pain individually installing the 16 studs, putting thread sealer on the block end and then a blind nut of the end and gently screwing it all the way into the block but not tightening it. Sliding the gasket...

You can find shorter bolts anywhere. Any bolt supply store will have shorter bolts. Longer is the problem. While you can run double donuts under the spring it doesn't look right. Get shorter grade 8 bolts.

Use full pressure.

I believe all the superchargers run into a problem with the upper A arms. The distance between the hood and A arm is just too small. The problem with superchargers is low end grunt is NOT there. The are RPM dependent and need revs to build boost. At 3000 you have very little boost. If you want...

I have done this a number of times but have a valve spring compresser that works really well. I just put air in the cylinder, put the valve spring compressor over the stud, block all holes in the head that can swallow a keeper and remove the spring. Air in the cylinder does a great job. I...

For all those aftermarket housing take a piece of glass and a sheet of fine emery paper. Using masking tape tape the emery paper to the glass and then true up the mounting surface of the housing. Draw it across the sheet of emery paper, look at the pattern. You will see the high spots usually...

Yes it might but remember those are the stock rotors. I drilled out the rivets years ago. I car was bought new by my friend and I got it in the early 80's. I have run racing compound pads for a while on the rotors but found they were getting chewed up so I switched to organic pads after...

You can simple lengthen one tie rod and shorten the other. Figure out which way the wheels need to move to center the wheel. Put a tape or mark on each of the 2 tie rods. Loosen the pinch bolts on the tie rod and lengthen one rod and shorten the other side the exact amount, If you turn one...

Again I agree. I think running a single spring is taking a gamble. What if one broke and I dropped a valve. I will run about 20 pounds overweight for boost but I have lost interest in redlining the motor years ago. With a blower it is not necessary. I use to run to 7500 all the time. Now my rev...

I agree Tom. Those springs are rediculous but they came with the heads. I wanted to say free with the heads but I certainly did pay for them along with the titanium retainers. I will run what the cam card says but might up it 20 pounds or so to help overcome the 12 pounds of boost on the 2.300...

I spot tested some of the roller springs I got with the heads just now and they far exceed what the cam calls for. The comp roller cam calls for 440# at .600 lift and I have 700# at .600 I then took the dual springs apart and tested only the single outer spring and got 210# seat and 436# at...

I was disappointed too on the roughness of the castings. They have a reputation for quality castings. Mine are race heads and they expect you to do alot of cleanup and porting but I would have thought they would come out of the box with the obvious things smoothed out. I will spend about a week...

I wouldn't bother with a 402. If you put the same money into a 454 you would be at least 50 horse ahead and the cost of rebuilding a 402 or 454 is exactly the same. An extra 50 horse makes itself felt. You are building the smallest of the big blocks. Think bigger. It's like building the 283...

Last night I took my Brodix 2X heads apart to start work on them. The intakes are 340cc and I found the intake ports close to a match, not right on but close, within 1/8th of an inch. It will take little work to match them to the intake. The exhausts are really small in comparison. I will...

As you know I tried taking my new heads apart and because of the roller springs I was unable to use a normal valve spring compresser. With advice from forum member I made my own. I started with a 2 inch piece of 1 ¾ round steel. I drilled a 1 1/8 hole almost all the way through for clearance...