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Of those, The oval. Not the C-2/3 air cleaner...... looks wrong on an older Hot Rod. Actually, 3 small round units would look the best IMO (more like the Hot Rods of the day?).

Another option is to weld small boss on the manifold, alum is really easy to work with, with a little work/skill it'll look factory. I've done that, as well as drilling a small hole and inserting a small section of alum tube and then sealing it with a small/neat fillet weld (cutting it flush...

maybe some day one of us with a stock engine will check it on the dyno and get some hard data.... however, i just talked to a stock 425HP drag racer last week....... he said the 2.5" core side pipes made a consistant 1.5 MPH difference in the 1/4 (over the original spec 1 7/8" core...

Why even consider synthetic? You'll change oil due to age/contamination long before the oil is "worn out"..... the only real benefit of synthetic (longer life). I'd go with Rotella 15-40 for general use..... and Valvoline Racing oil for HD use with heavy valve springs and flat tappets. BTW...

i noticed your post........... i understand the leakage comes from cracks around the terminals. and the cracks are the result of over tightening, or, a design that results in cracks with very little wrench force (i.e. not a real sturdy design).

understand that about 30% of the pump price is TAX....... that's what bugs me.

just for ther record, the original on my BB car was "steel" colored, no plating.

you can't be serious?!?..... you're talking about a 4 year old used car. get the ring upgrade job..... it's not a big deal at all, you may have to pay for it out of your pocket though (since you waited so long to deal with it) if you're not the type to do it yourself.... shop around and...

just sent you an email......

are you sure? i thought the C5 vert was just a touch heavier than a C5 coupe?? i know the C2 coupes are significantly lighter than the C2 verts

New, never regapped. Set of 8, hand picked for proper gap, .040". $40 shipped. SOLD

Tip: Take a look at German Castrol Syntec 0w30 (actually viscosity is more like 0w40) or Mobil 1 European 0w40 Both are EXCEPTIONAL oils If you do enough research, you'll end up there :-) .....you can buy both at Auto Zone

what matters is, how you feel about them :)

interesting....... after considering all the colors, i always end up with Black (the last 3 C'vettes i've bought, for general use/driving were Black/Black Leather). and i'd say I fit the above profile to a T.

i believe they all came with it (the new cars i looked at had it anyway). i think most people/mechanics threw it away when replacing the bat.

No, seems AC Delco dosen't make a gel anymore. i agree, the "red top" look ain't for me either...... that's why i painted it, and used the factory insulation. i think others make gels (other than Optima), but i felt the Optima was the best option at this point. (BTW: the paint i used was...

I'll second the Redline D4 ATF, pick up 4 quarts to be sure, but it'll only take a touch over 3........ fill till it comes out of fill hole.

I just put an Optima in my C5. I reused/refitted the factory foam insulation, and painted the Battery black. You have to "reset" your remote after also..... you just stand next to the car, and hold both "lock" and "unlock" buttons at the same time, till the horn beeps....it takes ~5-10...

not sure i understand your problem? you fill it so it's about 1-1.5" from the cap(cold), then when hot, it expands to ~full. is your cap seated/sealed correctly? (as well as the rest of the system) if not, the "boiling point" will be to lower than design..........

You may need a bigger front bar: GM used a 7/8" front bar on the BB with the rear bar (or 15/16" up front with the same rear bar on F-41... that's 7 leaf rear and 550# front springs).