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1/4 Results for my 383 Crossfire...

elkabong

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2002
Messages
225
Location
Chandler, AZ
Corvette
1984 Red Coupe.
1/4 Results for my 383 XRam...

13.43 @ 102.5

Well I did not do all that bad considering I am still running the stock tranny with converter and my tune is not complete. But now I have a baseline and it can only get better from here.
http://members.cox.net/azc4vette/vette/Jim 13.43.wmv

This is my sons first run and only run. He got there late because of work but not bad for the first run. He did better than I did. My first run was a 13.6. We had walkie-talkies but they still thought it was me... My son needs a little more practice getting to the tree.. After his run he said "Pops I need more practice." :) At least he does not street race. I would kill him if he got busted and he knows it. ;)

http://members.cox.net/azc4vette/vette/Evan 13.57.wmv


firebird-06102005a.jpg
 
Very nice!

What in the world was in the left lane? 32 seconds at 35MPH??!!??

A bicycle? :L
 
could you post your engine mods and the cam, compression,intake,rear gear ETC. Im sure most of the guys will be interested in exactly what you did to get in the low 13s with a crossfire corvette........and Im sure comparing your results with other similar cars will give valuable info
ESPECIALLY the heads, cam and intake manifold,that you used and the mods you made, as those stock crossfire intakes are very restrictive
 
Here are the motor specs.

Block - 95 4 bolt roller
0 Decked
Quench Distance - 0.039"
Rotating Assy - Eagle stroker kit (Crank, Rods)
Speed Pro Pistons with -12.5 cc D Dished
Moly Rings
Internally balanced
6 3/4 Inch harmonic balancer from Summit
Scat flexplate for late model block (153 tooth)
Heads are TrickFlow 195cc intake runners with 64cc chambers
Compression ratio 10.4:1
Cam - Compcams CS XR269HR-12 (pn 08-502-8)
Duration @ 0.05 218/228 LSA 112
Lift with 1.5 Rockers - .495/.503
Lift with 1.6 Rockers - .528/.536 (I did this)
Summit Roller Lifters
Roller Rockers 1.6 ratio (from ProComp in Australia)
XRam with 2" TBs and 90 lb Injectors
Headers - 1 3/4" Tubes, Ceramic Coated inside and out from Exotic Muscle
(www.exoticmuscle.com)
Gears are the stock 3.07's
Stock converter with a Transgo Shiftkit.
 
Sweet! Have you had her on the dyno yet?
 
No... no dyno yet. This is with just a basic tune. I am still trying to sort out the idle - I am using a 7747 ECM which is a truck ECM. I will be switching over to the 8625 ECM which is much more tuneable and easier to figure out for the idle.

There is more in the motor I just need to tune it properly. I have a WBO2 waiting to be installed. Once I do that I will really be able to tell the fuel buring characteristics of the motor and get more power.
 
You're going to have it dyno tuned?

Do you have an estimate on power?
 
Yes I plan on spending some time on the dyno but after I rebuild the trans and put in a 2600 stall converter. I would not phathom a guess as to what hp or tq is at this time.
 
That is awesome for the first time out. :_rock I can smell a 12 second time slip in that combo when you are all done tuning and have everything you want in there. A good trans rebuild with that 2600 stall converter will probably net ya 3 tenths on its own. 13.43 is enough to make stock LS1 guys take notice. keep us posted.

:beer
 
elkabong said:
Yes I plan on spending some time on the dyno but after I rebuild the trans and put in a 2600 stall converter. I would not phathom a guess as to what hp or tq is at this time.

I put a 2500 stall in mine with a shift kit, (can't remember the brand right now), and either my converter is not stalling, or it wasn't enough stall. Sounds like you know what you're doing but are you sure that's a high enough stall for ya?

You didn't mention what your exhaust setup is. Surely you'll get her into the 12's when it's all said and done :cool You could get a couple 10ths out of that 60', but if that's a stock D36 it's probly not gonna last too long ;)
 
The exhaust is Exotic Muscle 1 3/4 coated headers with a high flow cat and flow master 50's out the rear. The front Y pipe is 2.5 inch diameter and the rear Y is 2.25 inch from DynoMax. After much consultation it was determined there would not be that much of a gain out the rear due to the cat. If I did not have emissions I would run 2.5 inch duals. But I can't. AZ is very similar to CA.

The 2600 stall converter will suit my needs. The converter is from EdgeRacing Converters and I have a complete rebuild kit and transgo shilft kit. I could have gone higher on the stall but my goal is a road warrior and not built strictly for 1/4. I also have a 3000 stall sitting in the wings it was a "pay it forward" item from another Crossfire owner. I have another 700r4 from a 86 Vette and I will either rebuild that one or convert my 84 trans form a 27 tooth input shaft to a 30 tooth input shaft. I mainly bought the 86 trans for parts to do the conversion. I know the 84 trans is fairly good internally --- it has 55k on the clock. I have not decided which direction yet.

On paper this motor should be at 400hp and 420tq but paper and reality do not always match. I have a WB02 and I will get it wired up and start some serious tuning before I go for the final tune on the Dyno. A local Corvette club is putting together a dyno day towards the end of Sept once the weather cooperates. Yesterday it was 112 .. not the best temp to tune in. The only thing the heat has done is test my DeWitts radiator - and it works.

I hope the D36 will last for a bit. Has anyone done anything to beef up the D36 or is it jut a lost cause. I have thought about having the internals cryo'd any thoughts?
 
Elkabong are you gonna modify the 84 trans to stay in 4th gear at WOT? I did that to mine as I couldn't stand having to lift to go into 4th when I was running it out to see what it could do.

:beer
 
Man, if you're rebuilding your own tranny, you're way out of my league. Heck when my builder went to install the shift kit with all the springs and ball bearings and drills and directions, I just walked away and let him do his thing :L

I certainly agrre with you about the on paper #'s. I came up short of my expectations as well. I presume you're talking crank vs. RW #'s

Folks have had success with cryoing the D36's up to some pretty good HP. Usually the problem is the case will just explode. I'll see if I can find some further info for ya.

BTW my car is my daily and ONLY driver ;) I've ridden in daily's with a 3,000 stall and I don't see any disavantage, wishn I had know that before, cause I'm not gonna tear it apart again till it's required. It ain't broke---yet ;LOL
 
MoeJr - I have not thought that far ahead yet. Good idea but I plan to keep as much of the TCC as possible.

MoonUnit - I have a buddy of mine that has built a couple 700r4's. I bought a video on how to rebuild them which I have converted from VHS to a mpg. I have watch the video a few times and it does not seem all that difficult if you follow the steps and keep things clean. I am sure there is some "white magic" involved. But that is what I have my buddy for. He says we can completely go through it in about 6 hours and that is taking out time doing it. The plan is to step through the video on my notebook and take it one step at a time.

As far as the D36 is concerned if I went to the "House Budgetary Committee" and asked for $2k for a D44 I would be paying a divorce atty. But if I break it that is another story. ;) Seems strange that the case would just explode.
 
elkabong said:
As far as the D36 is concerned if I went to the "House Budgetary Committee" and asked for $2k for a D44 I would be paying a divorce atty. But if I break it that is another story. ;) Seems strange that the case would just explode.

Look at it like this: that's still cheaper than a divorce.:L:L:L
 
Man, I love hearing your results!

elkabong said:
Seems strange that the case would just explode.
If you talked with Jerry at Unitrax http://www.gounitrax.com/, you know my D36 is cryo treated inside, as is the case. He is a true font of diffy knowledge and is patient, available and honest.

I opted to treat the case (at no extra $) because the exhaust is right under it, plus it bears the normal stresses of a RE, plus being integral to the rear suspension. So far, so good, but I've done no drag strips and my BFG 315s are hard and partially crystallized :D , therefore they spin easily. I also chose synthetic solely for the extra heat from the exhaust; despite the superior lube characteristics of a 'normal' gear oil (unquote, Jerry).

My '84 had an 'early design' D36, which was replaced with a newer design. The early case has known weak areas, hence the redesign. Jerry could elaborate. We believe that mine broke, however, when the broken-off pinion tooth wedged between it and the ring gear.

There are several factors involved with diffy survival, aside from how it is treated and the physical size of the diffy. Gear ratio affects it, as the higher ratios allow for less metal-to-metal tooth contact area. The depth of the teeth also differs between manufacturers, even with the given ratio. Mechanical engineers could speak much more about all of this, but the larger contact area spreads the force more thinly, decreasing localized shear forces.

I had a US Gear 3.73 set before, which was fine to a point. I now run a 3.54 ratio by an unspecified vendor, but it has two teeth (versus one) in contact at all times. BOTH, offer improved contact area, versus the 3.73 set.
 
WP - Thanks for the info. Do you know how to tell the difference between a early case and the redsigned one. My 84 was manufactured in 6/83 and I would suspect it would be the early version.
 
Might wanna change that to "1/4 results for my 383 X-Ram"


A Crossfire manifold would have a hard time turning that speed.

I know...I run the X-Ram as well (2nd Owner of one)
 
I tried to change it but apparently it did not take. I will always think of my 84 as a crossfire because of the dual tb's.
 

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